Toxic Texan

I am positive that is the problem. Now the hard part is why did the fuse blow. You might want to check the wires around you tranny and make sure none are pinched or exposed.

TITAN

iTrader: (1)

My car has been at the dealer for well over a week now and they can;t seem to figure out the problem....Let me give you a quick rundown of the problem...

When the car is started on a cold start, it doewsn;t want to idle...it runs rich (it backfires) and has blower idle( fluctuates from 300 to 800 rpms)...also, right bfore I took it in, the car didn't want to idle even when it was warm...

Mods to car:
Vig 3200
Transgo 3 washer
85mm MAF
MTI Lid
gutted cats
y-pipe
programming
- raised idle
- delete rear O2's
- delete TM, etc....

The problem occurred with the install of the converter, shift kit and gutting of the cats...or rather the problem started to occur that next day...

The dealer has done everything...

-replaced IAC
-checked for vacuum leaks
-tried new PCM (in case other one was bad)
-checked PCM ground
-replaced MAP sensor (old one was soaked when they pulled it out)
-had a conference call with someone at GM

Still nothing....the weird thing is, the car is not throwing codes, even with a new stock PCM!

Any help is greatly appreciated...

Thanks,

Joe

<small>[ July 12, 2002, 12:49 PM: Message edited by: TITAN ]</small>

TITAN

iTrader: (1)

OK - Morning Update

I tried a new fuse 1st thing...it fired up the 1st time (although it wasnted to idle kinda high)...so I turned the car off and tried it again...and what do you know, back to crappy idle and didn't want to start at all...Same thing the 3rd, 4th and 4th time... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

Toxic Texan - the dealer put the car up on a lift and checked for loose or pinched wires, so that's not it....

The weird thing is, if I give it just a little gas as I'm starting it seems to idle OK...

I won't be able to Autotap it today but I will as sonn as I get a chance...

Any other ideas??

Joe

Toxic Texan

So you changed the fuse and it worked. Maybe the fuse was blown and the new one blew also?!? You really need to A-tap it. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

TITAN

iTrader: (1)

TT - Well the original fuse actually had not blown....the little metal piece in the middle breaks when they blow, right? Well, the little piece inside the plastic was not blown on the original one....and I tried 2 more new ones...nothing, same problem.....

But now, if I give it a little gas on startup, it'll idle like normal everytime!? What's the deal with that?

Joe

zombiedude

iTrader: (1)

TPS? just a thought.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

As I posted above, your car is trying to idle at like 400 rpms I bet. On cold start the AF is much richer than after it's warmed up.

To experiment, take the Tech II, KEY ON, and raise your idle 200 rpms, I bet it will run perfect. Only thing is the Tech II cannot save the changes.

TTYL

Larry

iTrader: (4)

PSJ may be right about idle speed. You can raise your idle with the stop screw if you epoxy and drill a .161 hole down stream of the air bypass valve. I can set my idle anywhere I like and I don't have the slow to idle when decelerating.

TITAN

iTrader: (1)

Well I have programming on my car and the idle is raised to 700 rpms....when I blip the throttle on start up or when the car is warm is idles there fine...what happens when I raise teh idle and it fires up when it's warm...won't the car idle REALLY high then?

Thanks for all the help guys!

Joe

Toxic Texan

Any new info???

TITAN

iTrader: (1)

<img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> Nope, not yet...still haven't gotten a chance to Autotap it...but I have been blipping the throttle at startup and there hasn't been any problems....I will post some autotap info when I have it...

Joe

<small>[ July 15, 2002, 03:34 PM: Message edited by: TITAN ]</small>

Jay 95WS6

did the dealer do a crankshaft position re learn?? sometime we have to do that after a converter install

Jay

www.jayfisherpontiac.com

TITAN

iTrader: (1)

I don't think so....how would you go about doing that? Or is that a tech 2 thing?

Thanks,

Joe

<small>[ July 15, 2002, 06:24 PM: Message edited by: TITAN ]</small>

Satan's Angel

i had a new engine put in my car and it won't run right...would you have to do that crankshaft position relearn for a engine install also???

TITAN

iTrader: (1)

Also, if I have custom programming, will the re-learn mess with the programming at all...?

Thanks,

Joe

Jay 95WS6

you need a tech 2 and it won't ruin your programming

TITAN

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Jay,

I'm gonna head to the dealership on Friday morning to have them do a relearn...thanks...

Joe

PewterZ

It's the converter. A4's just surge a little with a converter. Just put a cam in it and you won't feel it anymore <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

<small>[ July 16, 2002, 08:59 AM: Message edited by: PewterZ ]</small>

TITAN

iTrader: (1)

OK, Well I took the car to the dealer for a crankshaft position relearn and that did not help...the problem is still there...anybody else have any bright ideas?

Thanks,

Joe

1dirtyZ

iTrader: (1)

raise the idle by 50 rpms or so, see if that helps. and your car should idle high when cold the go down as the temps rise.