Running Hotter Than Before after intake swap
06-02-2006, 06:37 PM
#1
Running Hotter Than Before after intake swap Some what puzzled on this one. Just installed a Holly-Lingenfelter intake and converted to the Ls6 Valley cover- pcv mod.
Removed EGR and related air system equip.
After a short blast around the block to see how things acted, noticed that my engine temp was around 210. Note have a direct reading temp gauge(autometer). Usually never saw 190.. Prior to all of this.
Currently running a 160 stat as well. Car is blown, but I was never into boost. Temps would even climb at idle, fans came on as normal. I did not brake into the water-cooling system while doing the swap or valley install. So there is no air in the system.
Have a wide band A/F appeared to act and be normal.
I cant see air-egr to cause this it is only active on start, I still have not deleted the codes & turned it off yet. Ie new tune.
At idle I am seeing 15'' of Vac that is about where it was prior to.
Looking for some ideas on where to look???? Is there something I would be over looking that would cause such a increase in temp.?????
Removed EGR and related air system equip.
After a short blast around the block to see how things acted, noticed that my engine temp was around 210. Note have a direct reading temp gauge(autometer). Usually never saw 190.. Prior to all of this.
Currently running a 160 stat as well. Car is blown, but I was never into boost. Temps would even climb at idle, fans came on as normal. I did not brake into the water-cooling system while doing the swap or valley install. So there is no air in the system.
Have a wide band A/F appeared to act and be normal.
I cant see air-egr to cause this it is only active on start, I still have not deleted the codes & turned it off yet. Ie new tune.
At idle I am seeing 15'' of Vac that is about where it was prior to.
Looking for some ideas on where to look???? Is there something I would be over looking that would cause such a increase in temp.?????
06-02-2006, 07:16 PM
#2
EGR cools the intake charge and is active all the time, not just start. How is your AFR with it out? Also, check the Dart smoking thread on the internal section, there is some question on how the LS6 valley mod is being done that can cause oil consumption.
06-02-2006, 10:02 PM
#3
Originally Posted by vettenuts
EGR cools the intake charge and is active all the time, not just start. How is your AFR with it out? Also, check the Dart smoking thread on the internal section, there is some question on how the LS6 valley mod is being done that can cause oil consumption.
Last edited by 618HAWK; 06-02-2006 at 11:31 PM.
06-04-2006, 09:43 PM
#7
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Originally Posted by HeapaShifter
A metal intake is going to hold more heat than a composite one.
I'm running a similar setup, and my intake is the Weiand unit as well, swapped from the stock LS1 intake a month or so ago along with ported LQ9s.
I've seen no increase in operating temp over the previous setup, and it's reached into the 90s here already. How did you seal the intake to the heads? Since our intake uses one-piece gaskets, they've been known to not seal properly. In this case, I'd gone over the rest of the sealing areas with hi-temp gasket sealer. If you did this, did you make sure you didn't get some in a water jacket? Also, have you flushed your cooling system since the chances of getting excess **** from the swap/surface cleaning are higher?
Also, it took me a few runs around the neighborhood to get all of the air pockets out of my system.
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06-04-2006, 10:13 PM
#8
Originally Posted by DarkFormula
Don't start spouting that unsubstanciated bullshit. It gets old.
I'm running a similar setup, and my intake is the Weiand unit as well, swapped from the stock LS1 intake a month or so ago along with ported LQ9s.
I've seen no increase in operating temp over the previous setup, and it's reached into the 90s here already. How did you seal the intake to the heads? Since our intake uses one-piece gaskets, they've been known to not seal properly. In this case, I'd gone over the rest of the sealing areas with hi-temp gasket sealer. If you did this, did you make sure you didn't get some in a water jacket? Also, have you flushed your cooling system since the chances of getting excess **** from the swap/surface cleaning are higher?
Also, it took me a few runs around the neighborhood to get all of the air pockets out of my system.
I'm running a similar setup, and my intake is the Weiand unit as well, swapped from the stock LS1 intake a month or so ago along with ported LQ9s.
I've seen no increase in operating temp over the previous setup, and it's reached into the 90s here already. How did you seal the intake to the heads? Since our intake uses one-piece gaskets, they've been known to not seal properly. In this case, I'd gone over the rest of the sealing areas with hi-temp gasket sealer. If you did this, did you make sure you didn't get some in a water jacket? Also, have you flushed your cooling system since the chances of getting excess **** from the swap/surface cleaning are higher?
Also, it took me a few runs around the neighborhood to get all of the air pockets out of my system.
Well thats just it I never broke in to the cooling system! Did not even crack the cap. And there was never a cooling temp prior to the swap.
Sealed the intake with a high temp RTV.
06-04-2006, 10:20 PM
#9
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It is 95 degrees outside. 
I remember when I first removed AIR and EGR I heated up faster. Although at that time I didn't have the aftermarket temp. gauge. I also wasn't running well until I had the codes turned off.
That would be my best recommendation right now. Buy Clint some beer and turn off those codes and see if that helps any.
I remember when I first removed AIR and EGR I heated up faster. Although at that time I didn't have the aftermarket temp. gauge. I also wasn't running well until I had the codes turned off.
That would be my best recommendation right now. Buy Clint some beer and turn off those codes and see if that helps any.
06-05-2006, 12:46 AM
#11
Originally Posted by DarkFormula
Don't start spouting that unsubstanciated bullshit. It gets old.
I'm running a similar setup, and my intake is the Weiand unit as well, swapped from the stock LS1 intake a month or so ago along with ported LQ9s.
I've seen no increase in operating temp over the previous setup, and it's reached into the 90s here already. How did you seal the intake to the heads? Since our intake uses one-piece gaskets, they've been known to not seal properly. In this case, I'd gone over the rest of the sealing areas with hi-temp gasket sealer. If you did this, did you make sure you didn't get some in a water jacket? Also, have you flushed your cooling system since the chances of getting excess **** from the swap/surface cleaning are higher?
Also, it took me a few runs around the neighborhood to get all of the air pockets out of my system.
I'm running a similar setup, and my intake is the Weiand unit as well, swapped from the stock LS1 intake a month or so ago along with ported LQ9s.
I've seen no increase in operating temp over the previous setup, and it's reached into the 90s here already. How did you seal the intake to the heads? Since our intake uses one-piece gaskets, they've been known to not seal properly. In this case, I'd gone over the rest of the sealing areas with hi-temp gasket sealer. If you did this, did you make sure you didn't get some in a water jacket? Also, have you flushed your cooling system since the chances of getting excess **** from the swap/surface cleaning are higher?
Also, it took me a few runs around the neighborhood to get all of the air pockets out of my system.
06-05-2006, 08:44 AM
#12
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The only time I see extra heat dissipation is after the car has been shut off and the heat soaks into the intake. While running, however, it stays cool to the touch. I also have my intake powdercoated.
Now I'm confused about why the EGR removal could possibly cause a surge in operating temps. Wouldn't removing the system that re-directs hot exhaust gases into your intake charge increase temps?
Now I'm confused about why the EGR removal could possibly cause a surge in operating temps. Wouldn't removing the system that re-directs hot exhaust gases into your intake charge increase temps?
06-05-2006, 11:01 PM
#13
Update found a small vaccum leak around #1 cylinder injector port. So off came the manifold. Reinstalled the stocker 01 with new gasket set as well. Prior to this found that after I cleaned IAT sensor seemed to help a bit.
But even with all this I am still running a temp of 205-210 on the autometer and 210 on the dash. With a outside air temp of about 85-90 deg.
The last time I drove the car the out side temps around here were in the low 80's and I never saw more than 190 for water temp.
Is there any way that converting to the ls6 valley cover could be screwing with my LT,s-ST,s. Causing this heating issue?
I do notice on start up that A/F hangs around 11.7 - 12.1 even when the motor is hot.
But even with all this I am still running a temp of 205-210 on the autometer and 210 on the dash. With a outside air temp of about 85-90 deg.
The last time I drove the car the out side temps around here were in the low 80's and I never saw more than 190 for water temp.
Is there any way that converting to the ls6 valley cover could be screwing with my LT,s-ST,s. Causing this heating issue?
I do notice on start up that A/F hangs around 11.7 - 12.1 even when the motor is hot.
06-06-2006, 09:27 AM
#14
Sounds coincidental to me. I've thought about this thread for a couple of days & just can't think of anything specific. 11.7-12.1 is rich & would have a cooling effect. I can offer this; after porting my throttle body & port matching my Weind intake, A/F on the wide band was the same as it had been prior to doing so. Took it for a dyno tune & the dyno indicated that the car was running 0.6 leaner than previously & too lean @ WOT. Maybe you're leaner than the wide band is indicating. I'd also triple check the cooling system. I once overheated & lost #5 & #7. That back driver's side corner runs hottest. Add some water wetter & connect the coolant ports on the rear of the heads to get a bit more flow back there. If that doesn't help, turn the primary fan on 5 to 10 degrees sooner. It's probably gonna run all of the time, but, will help. Really don't see anything that would make her run hotter. Maybe in the old PCV set up, the oil blow-by had a cooling effect? Who knows. Good-luck.
06-06-2006, 09:39 AM
#15
Not to point out the odvious but sometimes things like this are over looked. Try burping the cooling system anyways. Just because u didnt touch it doestn mean something didnt happen during this time when u were working on it. Ive had other problems completely unrelated appear at the same time as a mod. also maybe try pulling out the thermo, maybe its stuck slightly shut? just my .02
06-06-2006, 10:48 AM
#16
Originally Posted by ritefulback
Not to point out the odvious but sometimes things like this are over looked. Try burping the cooling system anyways. Just because u didnt touch it doestn mean something didnt happen during this time when u were working on it. Ive had other problems completely unrelated appear at the same time as a mod. also maybe try pulling out the thermo, maybe its stuck slightly shut? just my .02
I changed my a/c compressor one time, fired the car up, and the radiator cap started gushing coolant like you wouldn't believe. Some things are beyond my imagination.
