SladeX

There is no way in hell anyone got this intake installed with stock coolant pipes unless the intake's fins or whatever are grinded flat AND the knock sensor wires are stripped down to just wires. The gap measures 1.1cm and a wire pressed on top of a coolant line measures 1.1cm!!! Unless the fins are gone, it ain't fitting.

Also, who in god's name forgot to mention Mr Fantastic is necessary when reconnecting the MAP, HVAC vacuum and manuvering the brake booster.

A warning to any that is considering this swap on a f-body. Nowhere does it mention the sheer difficulty of plugging in that crap or reaching back there.

Also to anyone with garage stored cars, the plastic still gets brittle in some spots! In particular, the damn throttle cable plastic mount pieces, I f-in broke mine with it disconnected from the throttle body. Also my knock sensors clips were brittle too. Careful!

Also, buy mechanic gloves. There are some VERY sharp casting flash in and about the engine bay area. I gashed my finger so deep that I actually considered hitting the emergency room for it because it was litteraly spraying blood. Like a trooper I washed my hands with soap, ow, put a bandaid, then cut circulation with electrical tape. Then I proceeded to install my intake because it happened at the start of the intake install portion.

Other than those issues, it went fairly well, it started cleanly with no codes and I'm dynoing it tomorrow. First dyno = stock, this dyno = slp lid, ls7 clutch, ls6 intake.

staringback05

iTrader: (8)

you did it the hard way....you should have just called me

SweeTbone

iTrader: (8)

Sounds like a hell of a time. I just did mine Sunday and it wasn't all that bad IMO. I used +01 coolant pipes, of course. The big thing with hooking everything back up behind the intake is basically working blind. No way you can see what you are doing. Just do it by touch and feel. I have a big arm and sausage type fingers, and still was able to get it done. Although the scrapes on my arms from the screws in the cowl are JUST now starting to go away.

Anxious to see the dyno results. Good luck.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

I hammered those lines flat with a dead blow. worked then.

Justin00SS

iTrader: (5)

So you just beat on them? I'm thinking of doing my today without the 01+ coolant pipes because I can't find them on Island and shipping here is a killer.

SladeX

If you grind the fins flat where the wires/coolant pipes go it WILL fit fine.

The only area is an h shape with the crossover occuring right across the 3/6 intake ports.

http://www.ccfbg.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2492

I forgot to take pics of the modded intake as I was at it for a few hours doing mock installs and measuring details. Note I simplified the knock sensor lines by removing the holding brackets and the tape.

SladeX

About working blind, I use my left hand a lot as I'm ambidextrous and find other than writing and a few right arm only tasks, I'm mostly a left handed person.

That said I sliced open my finger tip on my left index finger. I felt like I was cripped reinstalling everything.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

Of course I beat them to fit a flat bottom intake. FAST.

melchoir

iTrader: (4)

Very very nice pictures. I did the swap a week ago, and had to pull the intake again today for something else, last week it was a bigger pain in the ***, once you do it once (regardless of guides) it is much easier the second time. I can pull the intake now in 30 minutes or so, solo.