Car won't start, SECURITY lights stays on with key on
 

Has anyone heard of this problem? I try to start my car and nothing happens, no clicking or turning over or anything. Upon looking at the dash I see that the security light is on and solid, but once it goes off after a minute or two, the car starts up fine. It seems like the security system is locking out the ignition? Any help would be great!

on your iginition key there is a small black computer chip, when that goes bad the security light goes on! just get a new key, problem solved

Yes, the VATS(Vehicle Anti-Theft System) system is screwing up on ya. Do you have a spare key and does it do the same thing? Otherwise, a new key might fix it but it could be the part in the ignition switch that "reads" the chip in the key. I had to have mine replaced.

there are two wire on the inside of the cylinder that reads the resistance of the black thing on your key . after cranking the car over a period of time these wires will become loose and eventually will not read .
ther are a few write ups (one i did ) on here . check in the general maintenace and reapirs for how to fix this .

here is a link to some info just scroll down .
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...highlight=vats

Appreciate all the help. Unfortunately I don't have the spare key with me, but whenever I get ahold of it I'll test it out to see if it is the key or the wires in the ignition cylinder.

my car was doing the same thing a while ago. i called the dealer and got a quote of about $600 to replace the lock cylinder and have 2 new keys made. i was pretty pissed, then i found this site http://shbox.com/1/pass_key.html i went to radio shack and got a $0.50 resistor like he suggested and it totally solved my problem. the car starts up perfectly everytime now.

the dealership charges to the game on this kind of stuff ! the way they fix it is not easy though . one of my buddies has been working for a chevy/pontiac dealership forever and he was nice enough to bring a box that you stick your key in and it will show a number 1-13 .
this number though he did not even know what the resistance was till i pulled it up on the internet . you can more than likelly go to a gm dealership with your key and find the number that your key is on the resistance chart .

Yeah, i just spent alot of money on my header/full exhaust install, including cutout, motor mounts, and MSD plugs and wires. the 50 cent resistor method looks to be in my budget range :)

i did say it was not easy but really it is not too hard . you just got to be spot on the resistance as it only allows within plus or minus 20ohms if i remeber correctly . so when reding the resistance off the key make sure as my meter was way off that of what it actaully was . any gm dealearship has these boxes that your key just gets placed in and reads what code of resistance it is .

If you know someone that has HPTuners just get them to turn the vats off and be done with it all together. I turn the vats off on every car I tune. It's preventative maintenance. :cool:

even with the vats off the car will not start if the wires in the column dont work! it actually happened to me while my car was on the dyno backed it up and shut it down! went to start it back up and nothin! turned the vats off wouldn't start! so we eventually bump started it to get it started! we did the radio shack mod and have not had a problem!

Yeah, thanks for all the input. I'm definitely am going to go with the radio shack mod. I almost got stranded while I was on a date so I never want this to happen again.

My car was doing that. called dealer...They just told me to clean the chip looking thing on the key with a dry cloth..you need to wait about 15 mins for the security to reset.. i cleaned my key and has worked fine for a year now good luck man..

Some of these guys know whats going on....new key...wont work.....i had this happen...heres how to fix it.........

the "Chip" is not a chip...it is a resistor...just as some of the guys stated........ that resistor resists electrical current. when the current is correct the car will start. the wires inside the tumbler get frayed and decide to be gay and wont let the car start.......YOU NEED TO FIX THIS ASAP IF YOU LET IT GO ON, YOUR SECURITY LIGHT WILL NOT STAY SOLID IT WILL BEGIN TO FLASH, WHEN THIS HAPPENS YOU ARE COMPLETELY FUCKED.....NO MATTER HOW LONG YOU WAIT IT WILL NOT LET YOU START IT.

1. go to autozone, radioshack hobby store where ever you can find resistors.
2. Measure resistance of key resistor.
3 match resistance with resistors
4. splice into orange wires under steering wheel.

it took me like 30 minutes to do.
i feel your frustration....so did my last job...when my god damn car wouldnt start in the morning.
hope this helps.

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...%3Den%26sa%3DN

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...%3Den%26sa%3DN

hey is there any way to have get the security light to turn off while the resistor is in there? cause between this and the service engine soon light being on from my AIR delete it's starting to piss me off to drive around with these lights on. i'm really close to doing the "black electrical tape on the dash" mod lol.

I just did this yesterday. Required 3 resistors, soldered them together & worked like a charm. My security light isn't on anymore.

VATS is gay. Resistor mod is the way to go.

haha ive done it with my old car...looks great from outside the car :nod:

It happened to me a few weeks back, i gave the chip on the key a good wipe, and it seemed to work just fine. Scared the hell outa me, but it worked out after all.