cam/timing gear questions polluter cam questions to
12-11-2008, 10:34 PM
#1
cam/timing gear questions polluter cam questions to I just installed the cam but have not reinstalled the cam plate timing chain oil pump and so on.
can anyone tell me how much i need to advance or retard the timing? Also how do I remove the timing gear off the crank I am replacing the entire timing chain / gear set.
Also what bolts need to be replaced? pulley bolt I know needs to but what other bolts are torque to yeild?
can anyone tell me how much i need to advance or retard the timing? Also how do I remove the timing gear off the crank I am replacing the entire timing chain / gear set.
Also what bolts need to be replaced? pulley bolt I know needs to but what other bolts are torque to yeild?
12-11-2008, 11:34 PM
#3
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i used a medium sized three jaw puller to pull my balancer. i think lots of three jaws will convert over to two jaw by removing one arm and moving another to the opposite side. i converted my three jaw over to the two jaw version and attached it behind the gear teeth around the outside of the crank gear. its not near as tough as the balancer to remove but i believe the puller is still mandatory.
12-15-2008, 10:48 PM
#4
We always suggest degreeing the cam during install, but it's not very practical to do while the engine is still in the car. In your case, just install it dot-to-dot without adjusting the timing at all.
To pull the timing gear off the crank, you'll need a puller.
The pulley bolt is the only bolt I'd replace. None of the rest are torque-to-yield.
Best of luck - can't wait until you fire it up!
To pull the timing gear off the crank, you'll need a puller.
The pulley bolt is the only bolt I'd replace. None of the rest are torque-to-yield.
Best of luck - can't wait until you fire it up!
12-15-2008, 11:16 PM
#5
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We always suggest degreeing the cam during install, but it's not very practical to do while the engine is still in the car. In your case, just install it dot-to-dot without adjusting the timing at all.
To pull the timing gear off the crank, you'll need a puller.
The pulley bolt is the only bolt I'd replace. None of the rest are torque-to-yield.
Best of luck - can't wait until you fire it up!
To pull the timing gear off the crank, you'll need a puller.
The pulley bolt is the only bolt I'd replace. None of the rest are torque-to-yield.
Best of luck - can't wait until you fire it up!
12-16-2008, 06:04 PM
#7
The Kent-Moore puller for the crank sprocket can be found on flea bay for around $12. Why are you advancing the cam, why not install on the specified ICL? With the right tools you can easily degree the cam in the car. The LSx specific socket from Comp (part #4914) and the degree kit (part #4796) and dial indicator extension (part #4912) will do the job.
Here is the Kent-Moore tool attached to my puller.
Here is the Kent-Moore tool attached to my puller.
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12-16-2008, 07:52 PM
#9
As I recall, that is a fairly large cam and will likely greatly reduce PTV. You not only should degree the cam, but check PTV too while you have it set up with a dial indicator, etc. Otherwise, you are rolling the dice and then it depends on how lucky you are. What are your PTV values?
12-16-2008, 08:03 PM
#10
At the moment I am going to cut the pistons regaurdless due to my choice in heads (5.3 heads ported and machined to 60cc combustion chambers) Does anyone know the most you can take out of a stock piston? I f I can I am debating on cutting the heads down again to make them 58 or 59 cc heads to up the compression a bit more. I have nothing but time at the moment and it is my project car and will never see dd needs just some nice wheather cruising and lots of track time. If anyone can give me some advice that would be great.