degree cam?
#27
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Here's a link to the Powerhouse: LS1/LS6 Crank Turning Socket
#29
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I use paint to make my marks for reference. There is no magic in the adjustables, they just save time.
Last edited by PREDATOR-Z; 12-31-2008 at 09:27 AM.
#30
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If you get the tools linked to in this thread from any of the many sources, you can verify your valve events. If they are advanced or retarded from where they were intended (see your cam card), you can use an adjustable timing set to adjust those events by advancing/retarding the cam timing at the sprocket. Without the adjustable set, you cannot adjust it (yes, I know it sounds painfully obvious). BUT, you would at that point know where you stand and whether or not the cam timing is where intended. You can add the adjustable timing set anytime down the road and dial those VE's in if desired.
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#31
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This maybe a dumb question but I thought I would ask anyways. Do you degree cams that are done in your shop. I am planning on have you guys doing my H/C swap and wonder if you guys would do this as part of the job. Or would there be another fee. Thanks for your help.
#32
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Agree^^^^I have the same socket and found out after I purchased it that Powerhouse Products has the same socket for half the price of the Comp Cams socket.
Here's a link to the Powerhouse: LS1/LS6 Crank Turning Socket
Here's a link to the Powerhouse: LS1/LS6 Crank Turning Socket
#34
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Actually it isn't half the Comp Cams socket price. That web store is confusing, but the $26 price is for the SBC version. When you select the LS1 version it doesn't update the price, but when you got to checkout you'll see it adds $18 which puts it at the same as the best price I found the Comp Cams version for.
#35
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My cam was roughly 4 degrees off when I installed it "dot-to-dot". Not to move off topic, but if someone needs a degree kit, I still have the Comp Cams "in-car" version I used to degree my cam. I don't need it anymore and could sell it off.
I used an adjustable timing set to make my life easier.
The most difficult part of degreeing the cam (for me) was getting the dial indicator secured on the valve-tip. Since the rocker mounts are radiused it really made it hard to get that thing secured. After 6 hours, though, I got the cam within .3 degrees of the right ICL...I was tired by then and figured it was close enough.
I'm sure there is some tool that could have made that easier...but I didn't have it.
I used an adjustable timing set to make my life easier.
The most difficult part of degreeing the cam (for me) was getting the dial indicator secured on the valve-tip. Since the rocker mounts are radiused it really made it hard to get that thing secured. After 6 hours, though, I got the cam within .3 degrees of the right ICL...I was tired by then and figured it was close enough.
I'm sure there is some tool that could have made that easier...but I didn't have it.
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basically if you get the car dyno tuned you dont need to degree the cam?
#37
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I meant an engine dyno, not a chassis dyno.
no no, it has nothing to do with the "tune" of the car. that is adj. the IGNITION timing, and fuel curves. changing the cam timing is a mechanical change. when the valves open/close relative to when the piston is at tdc. you can make them open earlier or later.
no no, it has nothing to do with the "tune" of the car. that is adj. the IGNITION timing, and fuel curves. changing the cam timing is a mechanical change. when the valves open/close relative to when the piston is at tdc. you can make them open earlier or later.
#38
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If you get the tools linked to in this thread from any of the many sources, you can verify your valve events. If they are advanced or retarded from where they were intended (see your cam card), you can use an adjustable timing set to adjust those events by advancing/retarding the cam timing at the sprocket. Without the adjustable set, you cannot adjust it (yes, I know it sounds painfully obvious). BUT, you would at that point know where you stand and whether or not the cam timing is where intended. You can add the adjustable timing set anytime down the road and dial those VE's in if desired.
#39
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Agree^^^^I have the same socket and found out after I purchased it that Powerhouse Products has the same socket for half the price of the Comp Cams socket.
Here's a link to the Powerhouse: LS1/LS6 Crank Turning Socket
Here's a link to the Powerhouse: LS1/LS6 Crank Turning Socket
#40
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Very good info here and in the links. Thanks guys! There is nothing more frustrating when degreeing a cam and trying to be very accurate with points of degrees and very small measurements to have your tools move around on you or the degree wheel spin accidentally. Pay a little now and buy the right tools to hold the dial indicator properly to the engine as indicated in the link that 405HP_Z06 posted and the crank turning socket to hold the degree wheel tight. I wasted a lot of time on my last cam change due to figuring a way to hold the dial indicator stable with an aluminum engine and how to keep the degree wheel from moving while rotating the engine with a crank bolt. BTW, for an in car degree wheel, a 9" one works perfect. Not sure how well it will fit with the Comp Cams socket though since it pushes it farther out.
I found out all small parts to hold the dial indicator to the head can be ordered from one site, www.Mcmaster.com. The only difference is the 12mm tubing has an inside diameter of 9mm instead of 8mm.
I found out all small parts to hold the dial indicator to the head can be ordered from one site, www.Mcmaster.com. The only difference is the 12mm tubing has an inside diameter of 9mm instead of 8mm.