LS1 Patriot Performance Heads + Cam Package
#1
LS1 Patriot Performance Heads + Cam Package
Looking to get this package for my low mileage SS, what do u guys think? any good news about these Patriot guys? i would love to hear a sound clip if anyone has one:
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=1406
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=1406
#3
11 Second Club
iTrader: (43)
Here's a few videos of my 226/226 112lsa cam through a few different exhaust setups...
Mine was supposedly a "custom" cam, but coincidentally (or not) it has the exact same specs as the Patriot cam...Regardless, I love how it runs and how it sounds. Sounds almost stock through dual/dual muffler, but very racey with cutout open. Almost like two different cams IMO.
I have stock 241 heads, and car idles well at 800-850 rpm's.
Peak HP (344) at 6500, Peak Torque (314) at 5600, shifts at 6800
A4 car, with unlocked converter and on a Mustang Dyno...
Will run 11.60's @ 115-116 all day long @ 3755# race weight.
JetHot longtubes, ORY, stock SS catback:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pn_GYyCU3Po
JetHot longtubes, ORY, custom single in/single out 3" setup:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HTk-3nvQUcw
Present setup...
JetHot longtubes, ORY, SLP dual/dual muffler (before tips were installed):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0zo6ORSNYI
How it sounds (& runs) with open cutout is in video link in my sig.
Through the dual/dual muffler a year ago:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hFgzLu59a5Q
Mine was supposedly a "custom" cam, but coincidentally (or not) it has the exact same specs as the Patriot cam...Regardless, I love how it runs and how it sounds. Sounds almost stock through dual/dual muffler, but very racey with cutout open. Almost like two different cams IMO.
I have stock 241 heads, and car idles well at 800-850 rpm's.
Peak HP (344) at 6500, Peak Torque (314) at 5600, shifts at 6800
A4 car, with unlocked converter and on a Mustang Dyno...
Will run 11.60's @ 115-116 all day long @ 3755# race weight.
JetHot longtubes, ORY, stock SS catback:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pn_GYyCU3Po
JetHot longtubes, ORY, custom single in/single out 3" setup:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HTk-3nvQUcw
Present setup...
JetHot longtubes, ORY, SLP dual/dual muffler (before tips were installed):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0zo6ORSNYI
How it sounds (& runs) with open cutout is in video link in my sig.
Through the dual/dual muffler a year ago:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hFgzLu59a5Q
#4
Here's a few videos of my 226/226 112lsa cam through a few different exhaust setups...
Mine was supposedly a "custom" cam, but coincidentally (or not) it has the exact same specs as the Patriot cam...Regardless, I love how it runs and how it sounds. Sounds almost stock through dual/dual muffler, but very racey with cutout open. Almost like two different cams IMO.
I have stock 241 heads, and car idles well at 800-850 rpm's.
Peak HP (344) at 6500, Peak Torque (314) at 5600, shifts at 6800
A4 car, with unlocked converter and on a Mustang Dyno...
Will run 11.60's @ 115-116 all day long @ 3755# race weight.
JetHot longtubes, ORY, stock SS catback:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pn_GYyCU3Po
JetHot longtubes, ORY, custom single in/single out 3" setup:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HTk-3nvQUcw
Present setup...
JetHot longtubes, ORY, SLP dual/dual muffler (before tips were installed):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0zo6ORSNYI
How it sounds (& runs) with open cutout is in video link in my sig.
Through the dual/dual muffler a year ago:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hFgzLu59a5Q
Mine was supposedly a "custom" cam, but coincidentally (or not) it has the exact same specs as the Patriot cam...Regardless, I love how it runs and how it sounds. Sounds almost stock through dual/dual muffler, but very racey with cutout open. Almost like two different cams IMO.
I have stock 241 heads, and car idles well at 800-850 rpm's.
Peak HP (344) at 6500, Peak Torque (314) at 5600, shifts at 6800
A4 car, with unlocked converter and on a Mustang Dyno...
Will run 11.60's @ 115-116 all day long @ 3755# race weight.
JetHot longtubes, ORY, stock SS catback:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pn_GYyCU3Po
JetHot longtubes, ORY, custom single in/single out 3" setup:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HTk-3nvQUcw
Present setup...
JetHot longtubes, ORY, SLP dual/dual muffler (before tips were installed):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0zo6ORSNYI
How it sounds (& runs) with open cutout is in video link in my sig.
Through the dual/dual muffler a year ago:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hFgzLu59a5Q
thanks bro, i love the way it sounds, so it put down 340rwhp are u sure it wasnt more? can that be right cause my car put 332rwhp on a mustang dyno too with just longtubes, idk just wondering, did u have to replace ur springs and pushrods as well? thats a nice time rite there, do u have gears?
#5
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (4)
Patriot has been around for a while, I wouldn't be worried about buying from them... they make great budget heads from what i've heard...
replacing springs for any cam upgrade is a good idea... the stock springs are crap and in my opinion not even good enough for the stock camshaft... hardened pushrods are recommended, but not required...
replacing springs for any cam upgrade is a good idea... the stock springs are crap and in my opinion not even good enough for the stock camshaft... hardened pushrods are recommended, but not required...
#6
Patriot has been around for a while, I wouldn't be worried about buying from them... they make great budget heads from what i've heard...
replacing springs for any cam upgrade is a good idea... the stock springs are crap and in my opinion not even good enough for the stock camshaft... hardened pushrods are recommended, but not required...
replacing springs for any cam upgrade is a good idea... the stock springs are crap and in my opinion not even good enough for the stock camshaft... hardened pushrods are recommended, but not required...
ok cool, how much rwhp should i except from this head and cam package if i get it? im hoping the patriot heads would breathe much better than the stock ones
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#9
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I made 420rwhp but my PP LS6 heads 2.02in/1.57ex and cam. specs are 231/237 .589/.595 112+4. for the heads I went with 59cc for a bimp in compression. I'd say just above 400rwhp with that setup. here is a vid of my car. when I get home I'll post one at idle.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LumZG0hk9Us
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LumZG0hk9Us
#10
I made 420rwhp but my PP LS6 heads 2.02in/1.57ex and cam. specs are 231/237 .589/.595 112+4. for the heads I went with 59cc for a bimp in compression. I'd say just above 400rwhp with that setup. here is a vid of my car. when I get home I'll post one at idle.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LumZG0hk9Us
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LumZG0hk9Us
#13
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LSA (Lobe Separation Angle):
Lobe Separation Angle, usually referred to as "LSA", is the angle of separation between the exhaust peak and intake peak. The lower the angle, the more the lobes will overlap, and that means more lope, gas smell, and drivability issues...however, the lower LSA can also mean more power and you get it sooner in the RPM range to boot. Duration and LSA are 2 very important items in clueing you into how a cam will idle and drive, although there is a LOT more to a cam than this.
http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
my time slip.
60' 1.7091
1/8 7.7008
1/8mph 90.82
1/4 12.0065
1/4mph 114.62
#15
11 Second Club
iTrader: (43)
thanks bro, i love the way it sounds, so it put down 340rwhp are u sure it wasnt more? can that be right cause my car put 332rwhp on a mustang dyno too with just longtubes, idk just wondering, did u have to replace ur springs and pushrods as well? thats a nice time rite there, do u have gears?
It was definitely 344 rwhp on the dyno sheet, but keep in mind that is on a Mustang Dyno which usually reads lower than a DynoJet, and it was also through a LOOSER than advertised PI Vigilante 3600 stall converter (like all of their converters) which shows a "flash stall" of 4300 or so, both on a dyno, and on numerous datalogs recorded from the track. That surely sucks up some dyno hp, but shines at the track.
It also proves that dyno numbers shouldn't be the last word in performance.
Perfect example...my car made 322rwhp with just longtubes and a lid and ran 12.66@107. With a jump (LOL) to "344 rwhp" after the cam swap, it's been a best of 11.61@116. We all know that no car is going to run a full second quicker, and 9 MPH faster with 22 rwhp....but that's all the gain that my dyno sheet shows. I'll take a 3700+ pound car that dynos mid 300rwhp and runs mid 11's, over a 400+ rwhp car that can't get out of the 12's, ANY DAY.
ABSOLUTELY NO OFFENSE TO ANYONE.
I used the often bashed Comp Cams 918 beehive valvesprings, along with Comp Cams hardened pushrods. Like I mentioned above, my car runs best (and loves to be) shifted at 6800 rpm's. It's seen 7000+ in the burnout box due to adrenaline, lol. My car has always had great oil pressure so I chose to leave the stock 110,000 mile oil pump right where it was. At 116,000 miles, it still has great oil pressure.
As for gears, I run an older 10 bolt 3 channel rear that I converted to 4 channel. It has 342 gears and the only mod I made to it was a Summit girdle. Average sixty foots are 1.59, with a best of 1.57.
I tried 410's. The car sixty footed near the same, and 1/4 mile ET and MPH was unchanged from what it runs all day long with the 342's. Trap speed with 342's is 5900 rpm's. With the 410's, it was 6500, which I didn't like...especially with a 116,000 mile engine, lol.
My car also runs exactly the same whether cutout is open or closed, so I'd say undoubtedly that the dual/dual setup is efficient for my setup...At the track, I love how it sounds open though, so I race it that way.
Suspension, although you didn't ask, consists of Bilstein HD shocks, older 1LE springs, old SLP boxed-in stock lower control arms and old SLP boxed-in stock panhard bar. Torque arm is bone stock. Swaybars stay on, front & rear.
Sorry for typing a book, but if anything I typed helps anyone out, it was worth the effort.
#16
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Thanks.
It was definitely 344 rwhp on the dyno sheet, but keep in mind that is on a Mustang Dyno which usually reads lower than a DynoJet, and it was also through a LOOSER than advertised PI Vigilante 3600 stall converter (like all of their converters) which shows a "flash stall" of 4300 or so, both on a dyno, and on numerous datalogs recorded from the track. That surely sucks up some dyno hp, but shines at the track.
It also proves that dyno numbers shouldn't be the last word in performance.
Perfect example...my car made 322rwhp with just longtubes and a lid and ran 12.66@107. With a jump (LOL) to "344 rwhp" after the cam swap, it's been a best of 11.61@116. We all know that no car is going to run a full second quicker, and 9 MPH faster with 22 rwhp....but that's all the gain that my dyno sheet shows. I'll take a 3700+ pound car that dynos mid 300rwhp and runs mid 11's, over a 400+ rwhp car that can't get out of the 12's, ANY DAY.
ABSOLUTELY NO OFFENSE TO ANYONE.
I used the often bashed Comp Cams 918 beehive valvesprings, along with Comp Cams hardened pushrods. Like I mentioned above, my car runs best (and loves to be) shifted at 6800 rpm's. It's seen 7000+ in the burnout box due to adrenaline, lol. My car has always had great oil pressure so I chose to leave the stock 110,000 mile oil pump right where it was. At 116,000 miles, it still has great oil pressure.
As for gears, I run an older 10 bolt 3 channel rear that I converted to 4 channel. It has 342 gears and the only mod I made to it was a Summit girdle. Average sixty foots are 1.59, with a best of 1.57.
I tried 410's. The car sixty footed near the same, and 1/4 mile ET and MPH was unchanged from what it runs all day long with the 342's. Trap speed with 342's is 5900 rpm's. With the 410's, it was 6500, which I didn't like...especially with a 116,000 mile engine, lol.
My car also runs exactly the same whether cutout is open or closed, so I'd say undoubtedly that the dual/dual setup is efficient for my setup...At the track, I love how it sounds open though, so I race it that way.
Suspension, although you didn't ask, consists of Bilstein HD shocks, older 1LE springs, old SLP boxed-in stock lower control arms and old SLP boxed-in stock panhard bar. Torque arm is bone stock. Swaybars stay on, front & rear.
Sorry for typing a book, but if anything I typed helps anyone out, it was worth the effort.
It was definitely 344 rwhp on the dyno sheet, but keep in mind that is on a Mustang Dyno which usually reads lower than a DynoJet, and it was also through a LOOSER than advertised PI Vigilante 3600 stall converter (like all of their converters) which shows a "flash stall" of 4300 or so, both on a dyno, and on numerous datalogs recorded from the track. That surely sucks up some dyno hp, but shines at the track.
It also proves that dyno numbers shouldn't be the last word in performance.
Perfect example...my car made 322rwhp with just longtubes and a lid and ran 12.66@107. With a jump (LOL) to "344 rwhp" after the cam swap, it's been a best of 11.61@116. We all know that no car is going to run a full second quicker, and 9 MPH faster with 22 rwhp....but that's all the gain that my dyno sheet shows. I'll take a 3700+ pound car that dynos mid 300rwhp and runs mid 11's, over a 400+ rwhp car that can't get out of the 12's, ANY DAY.
ABSOLUTELY NO OFFENSE TO ANYONE.
I used the often bashed Comp Cams 918 beehive valvesprings, along with Comp Cams hardened pushrods. Like I mentioned above, my car runs best (and loves to be) shifted at 6800 rpm's. It's seen 7000+ in the burnout box due to adrenaline, lol. My car has always had great oil pressure so I chose to leave the stock 110,000 mile oil pump right where it was. At 116,000 miles, it still has great oil pressure.
As for gears, I run an older 10 bolt 3 channel rear that I converted to 4 channel. It has 342 gears and the only mod I made to it was a Summit girdle. Average sixty foots are 1.59, with a best of 1.57.
I tried 410's. The car sixty footed near the same, and 1/4 mile ET and MPH was unchanged from what it runs all day long with the 342's. Trap speed with 342's is 5900 rpm's. With the 410's, it was 6500, which I didn't like...especially with a 116,000 mile engine, lol.
My car also runs exactly the same whether cutout is open or closed, so I'd say undoubtedly that the dual/dual setup is efficient for my setup...At the track, I love how it sounds open though, so I race it that way.
Suspension, although you didn't ask, consists of Bilstein HD shocks, older 1LE springs, old SLP boxed-in stock lower control arms and old SLP boxed-in stock panhard bar. Torque arm is bone stock. Swaybars stay on, front & rear.
Sorry for typing a book, but if anything I typed helps anyone out, it was worth the effort.
#17
Thanks.
It was definitely 344 rwhp on the dyno sheet, but keep in mind that is on a Mustang Dyno which usually reads lower than a DynoJet, and it was also through a LOOSER than advertised PI Vigilante 3600 stall converter (like all of their converters) which shows a "flash stall" of 4300 or so, both on a dyno, and on numerous datalogs recorded from the track. That surely sucks up some dyno hp, but shines at the track.
It also proves that dyno numbers shouldn't be the last word in performance.
Perfect example...my car made 322rwhp with just longtubes and a lid and ran 12.66@107. With a jump (LOL) to "344 rwhp" after the cam swap, it's been a best of 11.61@116. We all know that no car is going to run a full second quicker, and 9 MPH faster with 22 rwhp....but that's all the gain that my dyno sheet shows. I'll take a 3700+ pound car that dynos mid 300rwhp and runs mid 11's, over a 400+ rwhp car that can't get out of the 12's, ANY DAY.
ABSOLUTELY NO OFFENSE TO ANYONE.
I used the often bashed Comp Cams 918 beehive valvesprings, along with Comp Cams hardened pushrods. Like I mentioned above, my car runs best (and loves to be) shifted at 6800 rpm's. It's seen 7000+ in the burnout box due to adrenaline, lol. My car has always had great oil pressure so I chose to leave the stock 110,000 mile oil pump right where it was. At 116,000 miles, it still has great oil pressure.
As for gears, I run an older 10 bolt 3 channel rear that I converted to 4 channel. It has 342 gears and the only mod I made to it was a Summit girdle. Average sixty foots are 1.59, with a best of 1.57.
I tried 410's. The car sixty footed near the same, and 1/4 mile ET and MPH was unchanged from what it runs all day long with the 342's. Trap speed with 342's is 5900 rpm's. With the 410's, it was 6500, which I didn't like...especially with a 116,000 mile engine, lol.
My car also runs exactly the same whether cutout is open or closed, so I'd say undoubtedly that the dual/dual setup is efficient for my setup...At the track, I love how it sounds open though, so I race it that way.
Suspension, although you didn't ask, consists of Bilstein HD shocks, older 1LE springs, old SLP boxed-in stock lower control arms and old SLP boxed-in stock panhard bar. Torque arm is bone stock. Swaybars stay on, front & rear.
Sorry for typing a book, but if anything I typed helps anyone out, it was worth the effort.
It was definitely 344 rwhp on the dyno sheet, but keep in mind that is on a Mustang Dyno which usually reads lower than a DynoJet, and it was also through a LOOSER than advertised PI Vigilante 3600 stall converter (like all of their converters) which shows a "flash stall" of 4300 or so, both on a dyno, and on numerous datalogs recorded from the track. That surely sucks up some dyno hp, but shines at the track.
It also proves that dyno numbers shouldn't be the last word in performance.
Perfect example...my car made 322rwhp with just longtubes and a lid and ran 12.66@107. With a jump (LOL) to "344 rwhp" after the cam swap, it's been a best of 11.61@116. We all know that no car is going to run a full second quicker, and 9 MPH faster with 22 rwhp....but that's all the gain that my dyno sheet shows. I'll take a 3700+ pound car that dynos mid 300rwhp and runs mid 11's, over a 400+ rwhp car that can't get out of the 12's, ANY DAY.
ABSOLUTELY NO OFFENSE TO ANYONE.
I used the often bashed Comp Cams 918 beehive valvesprings, along with Comp Cams hardened pushrods. Like I mentioned above, my car runs best (and loves to be) shifted at 6800 rpm's. It's seen 7000+ in the burnout box due to adrenaline, lol. My car has always had great oil pressure so I chose to leave the stock 110,000 mile oil pump right where it was. At 116,000 miles, it still has great oil pressure.
As for gears, I run an older 10 bolt 3 channel rear that I converted to 4 channel. It has 342 gears and the only mod I made to it was a Summit girdle. Average sixty foots are 1.59, with a best of 1.57.
I tried 410's. The car sixty footed near the same, and 1/4 mile ET and MPH was unchanged from what it runs all day long with the 342's. Trap speed with 342's is 5900 rpm's. With the 410's, it was 6500, which I didn't like...especially with a 116,000 mile engine, lol.
My car also runs exactly the same whether cutout is open or closed, so I'd say undoubtedly that the dual/dual setup is efficient for my setup...At the track, I love how it sounds open though, so I race it that way.
Suspension, although you didn't ask, consists of Bilstein HD shocks, older 1LE springs, old SLP boxed-in stock lower control arms and old SLP boxed-in stock panhard bar. Torque arm is bone stock. Swaybars stay on, front & rear.
Sorry for typing a book, but if anything I typed helps anyone out, it was worth the effort.
i hear, my car too was dynoed on a mustang dyno, it put 332rwph 347 rwtq, just wit longtubes, but yea i understand now what ur saying about the dyno numbers, they dont mean much, i would like to switch to a 3.90 motive gear back there, and see how the car feels, but i actually called up patriot performance and those LS2 that come in that kit, are actually cnc and ported, so to me it makes a better deal i think, the only thing i dont have is suspension work done, but with that package i wanna shoot for high 11's, i also hope that my stock clutch will hold up, everything works mint on the car as it only has 23k on it, and i take care of it, anyone know about how much it would cost in labor to do a cam and head swap on this thing?
also are u running a ls6 intake? cause i still have the stock one
#19
yeah im gonna need to get one of those, do i have to mess wit the fuel system at all before i put the cam in? also wuts the best cam i should use if i decide to just use my stock 853 heads??
Last edited by Midnight00SS; 02-07-2009 at 05:20 PM.