What cam should I use to maximize my AFR 205's.
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If you have read my other thread, my SS performed poorly on the dyno and the track. I did not know what internal mods the SS had since I bought it the way it is (which i usually do not do, but it was too good of a deal to pass) from a dealer but here's what I know now.
I need help selecting a camshaft that will maximize my combo. It made 386rwhp and 368rwtq with the cam listed below, that is with being tuned. Below is what I am working with.
Stock shortblock (compression test average 195psi, +or- 20psi, leakdown test verified 8/10 percent leakage, non heard through throttle body or exhaust, 62k miles)
AFR 205 Heads, dual springs, titanium retainers
Bullet Custom cam, 230/232, 595/583, 114 lobe center with +4 degrees timing built in (I feel this cam is the problem)
Stock LS6 intake
LID
K&N filter
NGK TR55's
BBK 80MM throttle body
Thunder racing MAF
Mac headers w/ory
Corsa catback
4.10 gears
Thanks all!
I need help selecting a camshaft that will maximize my combo. It made 386rwhp and 368rwtq with the cam listed below, that is with being tuned. Below is what I am working with.
Stock shortblock (compression test average 195psi, +or- 20psi, leakdown test verified 8/10 percent leakage, non heard through throttle body or exhaust, 62k miles)
AFR 205 Heads, dual springs, titanium retainers
Bullet Custom cam, 230/232, 595/583, 114 lobe center with +4 degrees timing built in (I feel this cam is the problem)
Stock LS6 intake
LID
K&N filter
NGK TR55's
BBK 80MM throttle body
Thunder racing MAF
Mac headers w/ory
Corsa catback
4.10 gears
Thanks all!
Last edited by Vcious04; 04-06-2009 at 03:46 PM.
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That cam should make more power. I would swap out the MAC/ory for LTs.
Next is TR MAF, unless it is GM 85mm, go back to original.
Now the AFRs: Need to find out if they are out of box or milled.
What I would do is:
>Get LTs + 3' ORY with Cut outs.
>Change the the 80mm back to ported stock
>Degree the cam to find out its specs (or just doctor it, then sell it, then spec another custom cam)
>Yank the heads to measure its chambers (actualy I would send them back to Tony Mamo for refreshing)
> Put it all back together and retune.
Next is TR MAF, unless it is GM 85mm, go back to original.
Now the AFRs: Need to find out if they are out of box or milled.
What I would do is:
>Get LTs + 3' ORY with Cut outs.
>Change the the 80mm back to ported stock
>Degree the cam to find out its specs (or just doctor it, then sell it, then spec another custom cam)
>Yank the heads to measure its chambers (actualy I would send them back to Tony Mamo for refreshing)
> Put it all back together and retune.
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That cam should make more power. I would swap out the MAC/ory for LTs.
Next is TR MAF, unless it is GM 85mm, go back to original.
Now the AFRs: Need to find out if they are out of box or milled.
What I would do is:
>Get LTs + 3' ORY with Cut outs.
>Change the the 80mm back to ported stock
>Degree the cam to find out its specs (or just doctor it, then sell it, then spec another custom cam)
>Yank the heads to measure its chambers (actualy I would send them back to Tony Mamo for refreshing)
> Put it all back together and retune.
Next is TR MAF, unless it is GM 85mm, go back to original.
Now the AFRs: Need to find out if they are out of box or milled.
What I would do is:
>Get LTs + 3' ORY with Cut outs.
>Change the the 80mm back to ported stock
>Degree the cam to find out its specs (or just doctor it, then sell it, then spec another custom cam)
>Yank the heads to measure its chambers (actualy I would send them back to Tony Mamo for refreshing)
> Put it all back together and retune.
On the MAFand the 80mm TB, wouldn't a dyno tune show if the maf and/or TB was causing problems?
If their a way to check the CC's without removing the heads or any way to check for milling?
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***UPDATE***
Just got off the phone with Bullet Cams and gave the the serial # on the cam to him, here's the exact specs on the cam..
230/232, 595/583, 114 lobe center with +4 degree's timing.
I wonder if this cam is causing my low power?
Wonder what gains I can expect from switch to Kooks LT's with true duals and MS4 or equal cam?
Just got off the phone with Bullet Cams and gave the the serial # on the cam to him, here's the exact specs on the cam..
230/232, 595/583, 114 lobe center with +4 degree's timing.
I wonder if this cam is causing my low power?
Wonder what gains I can expect from switch to Kooks LT's with true duals and MS4 or equal cam?
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***UPDATE***
Just got off the phone with Bullet Cams and gave the the serial # on the cam to him, here's the exact specs on the cam..
230/232, 595/583, 114 lobe center with +4 degree's timing.
I wonder if this cam is causing my low power?
Wonder what gains I can expect from switch to Kooks LT's with true duals and MS4 or equal cam?
Just got off the phone with Bullet Cams and gave the the serial # on the cam to him, here's the exact specs on the cam..
230/232, 595/583, 114 lobe center with +4 degree's timing.
I wonder if this cam is causing my low power?
Wonder what gains I can expect from switch to Kooks LT's with true duals and MS4 or equal cam?
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back in 04 i had a 02 ws6...very similar cam...do you know if its a comp grind or cam motions? that cam specs are damn close to the FMS F13
i think they were 230 232 595 585 113+2 (thats the lsa and advance that i ran)
anyways i had that with a set of TEA 5.3 stage 2 heads milled .015
fast 90 tpis 90 tbody jet hot lt's mufflex orp, cutout, pulley and tuned
through a 12 bolt 390s i made 448 rwhp...so thats plenty cam to make some power assuming its installed correctly.
I think its a combo of an issue
Intake, tbody, maf, exhaust, possibly tune, do you know the specs on your 205s?
I know my current TFS heads had a number stamped on them and if you give AFR if they do the same that number they might be able to pull up your work order to decide if they were milled any
let us know what you find
were you numbers on a dynojet or mustang dyno?
who tuned and how much timing do you run?
i think they were 230 232 595 585 113+2 (thats the lsa and advance that i ran)
anyways i had that with a set of TEA 5.3 stage 2 heads milled .015
fast 90 tpis 90 tbody jet hot lt's mufflex orp, cutout, pulley and tuned
through a 12 bolt 390s i made 448 rwhp...so thats plenty cam to make some power assuming its installed correctly.
I think its a combo of an issue
Intake, tbody, maf, exhaust, possibly tune, do you know the specs on your 205s?
I know my current TFS heads had a number stamped on them and if you give AFR if they do the same that number they might be able to pull up your work order to decide if they were milled any
let us know what you find
were you numbers on a dynojet or mustang dyno?
who tuned and how much timing do you run?
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back in 04 i had a 02 ws6...very similar cam...do you know if its a comp grind or cam motions? that cam specs are damn close to the FMS F13
i think they were 230 232 595 585 113+2 (thats the lsa and advance that i ran)
anyways i had that with a set of TEA 5.3 stage 2 heads milled .015
fast 90 tpis 90 tbody jet hot lt's mufflex orp, cutout, pulley and tuned
through a 12 bolt 390s i made 448 rwhp...so thats plenty cam to make some power assuming its installed correctly.
I think its a combo of an issue
Intake, tbody, maf, exhaust, possibly tune, do you know the specs on your 205s?
I know my current TFS heads had a number stamped on them and if you give AFR if they do the same that number they might be able to pull up your work order to decide if they were milled any
let us know what you find
were you numbers on a dynojet or mustang dyno?
who tuned and how much timing do you run?
i think they were 230 232 595 585 113+2 (thats the lsa and advance that i ran)
anyways i had that with a set of TEA 5.3 stage 2 heads milled .015
fast 90 tpis 90 tbody jet hot lt's mufflex orp, cutout, pulley and tuned
through a 12 bolt 390s i made 448 rwhp...so thats plenty cam to make some power assuming its installed correctly.
I think its a combo of an issue
Intake, tbody, maf, exhaust, possibly tune, do you know the specs on your 205s?
I know my current TFS heads had a number stamped on them and if you give AFR if they do the same that number they might be able to pull up your work order to decide if they were milled any
let us know what you find
were you numbers on a dynojet or mustang dyno?
who tuned and how much timing do you run?
It's agrevating not knowing what is holding it back, and it's not a little i'm missing, you are talking a realistic 40-50rwhp missing. Hell, I was reading on AFR's website that with the 205's and AFR's cam made 396rwhp with stock manifolds.
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maybe cam isn't installed correctly? Slightly off? Compression is also something that could be checked. Maybe someone slipped some low compression pistons thinking they were going to turbo or supercharge in the future and never did. You might only have 8.5:1 or 9:1 compression holding you back. Check the pistons after pulling the heads (since you have still need to cc the chambers).
Good luck!
Good luck!
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From past experience with SBC, even an increase from 9.5:1 to 10.5:1, I only say about 20rwhp. Thats my personal experience, trust me. Thats the reason I do not feel like pulling the heads and milling is worth it. I also raised #1 cylinder to TDC and felt inside the spark plug hole with a coat hanger and could feel no valve reliefs untop piston therefore it must be stock pistons.
Here's my plan so far, let me know what you think.
Stock MAF
TSP Tsunami Camshaft
Kooks 1 7/8 Headers w/true duals
TR6 plugs
New Wires, PCV and K&N
Re-Tune
I would be happy with it making 420-430rwhp which it should. I guess I will find out.
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I am thinking the Thunder Racing MAF might be an issue under WOT. Remember, the cam had +4 degrees timing built in. I was talking to V6Bird about my problems and he was telling me he finished tuning a vehicle that had a granatelli MAF and under cruising it was fine. When he went WOT with it, it had many problems with timing and fuel.
From past experience with SBC, even an increase from 9.5:1 to 10.5:1, I only say about 20rwhp. Thats my personal experience, trust me. Thats the reason I do not feel like pulling the heads and milling is worth it. I also raised #1 cylinder to TDC and felt inside the spark plug hole with a coat hanger and could feel no valve reliefs untop piston therefore it must be stock pistons.
Here's my plan so far, let me know what you think.
Stock MAF
TSP Tsunami Camshaft
Kooks 1 7/8 Headers w/true duals
TR6 plugs
New Wires, PCV and K&N
Re-Tune
I would be happy with it making 420-430rwhp which it should. I guess I will find out.
From past experience with SBC, even an increase from 9.5:1 to 10.5:1, I only say about 20rwhp. Thats my personal experience, trust me. Thats the reason I do not feel like pulling the heads and milling is worth it. I also raised #1 cylinder to TDC and felt inside the spark plug hole with a coat hanger and could feel no valve reliefs untop piston therefore it must be stock pistons.
Here's my plan so far, let me know what you think.
Stock MAF
TSP Tsunami Camshaft
Kooks 1 7/8 Headers w/true duals
TR6 plugs
New Wires, PCV and K&N
Re-Tune
I would be happy with it making 420-430rwhp which it should. I guess I will find out.
If they are milled you could run into ptvc issues real quick just throwing a new cam in.
also the ls1 is not the same animal as the old sbc. just by running a .040 gasket with the afr's you can pick up 20hp from the tighter quench it will bring the scr up and reduce how prone to detonation it is. so to leave that out and a point of scr would be closer to 35-40 rwhp even with the afr's 420-430 rwhp will still require that everything is right on and tuned properly.