383 vs 383 stroker??? i'm lost....
 

ok so i'm retarded. whats the difference between an all bore 383 and a 383 stroker? can you stroke a 346 and it stay a 346? got into an arguement with my friend tonite while swapping old ford motors and it got me all confused. also whats the combo required to make a 427ci ls1? would it have to be a stroker or just a large bore? don't mean to sound stupid but i'm all 'fuzed right now :huh:

TIA.

A 382 all bore is exactly what it says. It gets the extra inches from having only a larger bore, it still uses the stock stroke.

A 383 Stroker is just the opposite, It uses the stock size bore but uses an aftermarket crank to get a longer stroke.

some prefer one some prefer the other.
When it's my turn I am going all bore.

Josh

4.00 Stroke x 4.125 Bore = 427ci

"can you stroke a 346 and it stay a 346?"

No. Only if you change the piston size as well. If you make the stoke longer or shorter then the piston size would have to be smaller or larger, repectively, to maintain the same cubic inches.

No body is retarded because they don't know something. Keep on asking questions. That's the way we learn.

Thanks guys, thats what I had originally understood to be the case, however my friend was saying something completely different. I knew you could make a true 427ci out of an ls1, but he was saying they only call them that cuz you stroke it 60 over and use a 427 crank and rods. However the engine is still a 383ci motor. I don't understand how that could be the case, if you change the stroke, it increases the ci, and if you bore it out, it increases the ci. If you do both, then both will increase the ci, hence how you get a 427. Whats the deal here? He's an old motorhead and knows his shit, but doesn't mess with LS1's much at all. I trust him but that sounded funny to me. Thanks for the input guys.

what are the advantages/disadvantages of an all bore 383 vs a stroker 383? (sorry to hijack the thread)

You don't stroke it 60 over. You bore it

Bore is the diameter of the cylinder.
Stroke is the distance th piston travels.

Stock 346ci
Stock bore is 3.898"
Stock Stroke is 3.622"

427
Bore - 4.125"
Stroke - 4.00"

To increase bore, you must hone out the or "Bore" the cylinder walls. In teh case of the LS1 the sleeves need to be replaced to accomidate the larger diameter.

To increase Stroke, you must change or alter the crankshaft.

Hope this will clear a few things up...

All Bore 383 -
Advantages - Cost, safer to rev higher due to shorter stroke, more top end HP
Disadvantages - Chance of dropping a cylinder sleeve, more expensive machining.

383 Stroker -
Advantages - Lots of torque:hump: more reliable (no dropping sleeves or blowing head gaskets), parts are usually forged, cheaper machine work. Flatter torque curve
Disadvantages - Cost of stroker kit

The term "all bore stroker" is an oxymoron. The word "stroker" implies the use of an different stroke length. A 383 stroked engine will make more torque throughout most of the rpm range than a 383 bored engine. Torque = force x distance, so increasing the distance between the crankshaft centerline and the rod journal centerline will, i.e. longer stroke, will increase the torque that the piston places on the crankshaft.

Pewter, do you need to resleeve an ls6 block as well to go 427? I know there is a different casting process between the two blocks. Also what is the dimensions for a 383 stroker? Whats the stroke on it? You leave the bore alone, or do like .010 over just to clean it up, correct? And yes either way I am going to put in completely forged components all the way around, lookin at boost down the road.

yes you still have to resleeve the LS6 block to go 427. the stroker is usually stock bore or a little over to 3.905 and a 4 inch crank.
the deal is that no one has really broke a stock crank..... as long as they are studed and ballanced they work up to 700 rwhp.
this is my plan, forged pistons and rods, stock bore, and stock crank, arp bolts every where and spray the hell out of it.
ohh and you might find this useful click here

Thanks Z, that calc did help. Well I don't like the idea of resleeving the block. In that case I will probably end up just stroking it and doing .010 over to clean it up. I appreciate all the info you guys have dropped here just this morning lol. If anyone has anything to add keep it comin. Also, how much boost can a forged 383 stroker bored .010 over handle? I'm lookin at a ATI procharger setup.

It gets honed .005" to clean up the cylinder and put in a nice crosshatch.

383 Stroker = 4.00" Stroke 3.905 Bore

The forged bottom end on a Lunati Stroker will handle over 1200+hp.

then why hasnt anyone come close to making this much power on a stroker? i am a big fan of stock sleaves.

I didn't say it would make it 1200+ hp I said the bottom end could handle it. You will lift a head or blow a head gasket before you get close to that hp level.

All bore motors unshroud the valves in these engines when you open up
the combustion chamber to match the bore size.This is a very good thing.

as am i :D

other problems come into play, lifting heads is the major one. thats just bad news all around

IE you get s2 or s3 heads ordered to match a 383? What exactly do u mean unshrouding the valves when u open up the combustion chamber? I thought a smaller chamber with a higher flow rate would be better, hence all the rage about AFR's new heads. Fill me in on this one, I'm really curious.

With an all bore 383, you can get 2.055 or 2.08 valves but with an all stroke, the best bet is to go with 2.02 valves.

The all bore heads will flow better and generally result in more peak hp. An all stroker 383 is capable of producing 475rwhp with a somewhat aggressive setup.