JRS9C1

Hello all,

I am going to be picking up my new 02' Camaro Z28 with 36,xxx on the clock. It has a magnaflow exhaust and I'm looking for low 13s high 12s. I was thinking of drag radials, tune, and a K&N intake. Or should I go with headers instead? Or just a cam if the stock manifolds flow good? Let me know!

Tom

jetlag

iTrader: (32)

Is your car an automatic or manual?

If automatic, get an aftermarket torque converter ASAP!

Pacesetter long tube headers are cheap and easy to install.... Don't get a cam until you get all the other bolt-ons...

WYATT318MOPAR

iTrader: (28)

I would bargain shop with the grand get headers, cam, and some valve springs on that low mileage motor. Then proceed to tear up hell with it.

Daryn

iTrader: (19)

headers are a must and a air lid..

if ur on a budget some painted pacesetters are aroond 400
and ceramic coated ones are in the 500-550 area

if your not on a budget then i would look into some kooks or american racing they make good stuff

also ive had y pipes utilizing the flowmaster merge and a electric cutout and i was very happy with it

as for the air lid ... anyone but STOCK will do just fine!

you can also look into getting an underdrive pulley... some dyno tests have proven 5-10 hp/tq increase

as for the basic bolt ons thats about it , u can get a dyno tune

JRS9C1

6 speed - FTW!

Cams are around $355 How much can valve springs and accessories for that install going to run me? What about roller rockers?

Is the air lid the stock intake setup? I just did a search and people have said that it's even better then K&N...??? And underdrive pulleys are relatively cheap right? Where can I get one online?

Also, the last time I did headers on a car it was off the road for almost two months because nothing bolted up. What headers will bolt right up to my magnaflow exhaust? I want something that I can easily do in an evening - no hacking, welding, grinding... And then take the thing to work the next day!

Thanks for all your suggestions guys.

Daryn

iTrader: (19)

yes the stock intake uses an air lid but it has a baffle between it and the intake manifold. which loses power big time!..... an after market lid does away with the baffle and thus gains you a few hp , and cleans up the engine bay a helluva lot!

NemeSS

iTrader: (127)

pro products sells a good ud pulley, so does summit.
headers are not exactly a bolt in deal, u will need matching y pipe and necessary mods to splice into your exhaust. weld,cut,etc.
will also need tune for new headers, esp. if deleting cats.

imo a lid with filter, a cutout spliced in your exhaust, msd wires, smooth bellows, udp, and a tune will really wake your car up.these are low price mods and work. and upgrade your lca's. and if possible some sub frame connectors.

BigRich954RR

iTrader: (1)

GO with a cam and new springs look for a kit there cheaper. maybe 499. Dont worry about the rocker run the stock ones. Look for a good set of long tube headers, Maybe used or skip the headers for now and get sub frame connectors. If your going to be beating on the car alot

andrew69_04

iTrader: (148)

i can help you out with some used parts to save you some dough if your interested. i've got hooker headers (ceramic coated) and a really nice aftermarket lid i can get you a good deal on. Also have a cam, springs, and pushrods but i dont know any of the specs becuase the cam was a custom grind. pm me if you want to work a deal on all the stuff i got!

homerunhtr21

iTrader: (18)

Are you going to do the work on the car or have the parts installed by someone? A thousand dollars can go away very fast. You can get headers, ory, lid and dyno tune will wake the car up. Smooth bellows are really a waste of money as they are mostly for looks. A pulley again imo is not worth the gains for the money (around 200 with belts) for 7hp? A cam kit (cam,springs,pushrods) will run at least 600 new plus a timing chain. And of course if you are not putting all the stuff in yourself there goes more of your spending money.

BlackSS1

I just spent about $1100 for my cam parts, including ported oil pump, cam, springs, LS2 chain, gasket set, new crank bolt, new plugs, misc other stuff/tools. You can skimp on some of that stuff, but you shouldn't.

For great fitting headers, you need ARH or Kooks. Truly bolt-in stainless steel great products, but also outside your stated budget.

I recommend you finish your boltons, lid, exhaust, etc before getting a cam.
Good luck!

Daryn

iTrader: (19)

i agree with the new chain and pump. but since his car as low miles.. its not necessary ...

TXZ28LS1

iTrader: (5)

i would use that 1,000 and definitely pick up some longtube headers like some pacesetters. try finding some used in the for sale section maybe 3-400 bucks. and use the rest on some drag radials and a air lid.

MelScrilla

iTrader: (2)

Nitrous.........................................FT W!!!!!!!!!!



Or some radials, used headers and ory, a lid, and a dyno tune. Should see high 12's.

IWGF

iTrader: (6)

Headers, lid, drag radials, and free mods. If you can drive, that will net you low 13s. I've got a buddy running 12s with all that plus a 4000 stall. Best of 12.89 in ABQ, which is 7000 ft above sea level.

Blackmagik

iTrader: (3)

I just did a cam install and it cost me 1600, not including install.

Don't do a cam. If you do a cam right, it'll cost you a lot in the long run.
cam-350
oil pump-100
pushrods-135
springs and retainers-500
Timing chain-150
Gaskets and crank bolt-100
new plugs-15
oil and antifreeze-50
tune-250/500
Yes, you can buy all this cheaper, but if you're doing it, might as well do it right the first time.

Doing a cam without supporting mods is just...silly

Just go with headers/ypipe, lid, free mods, and if you have some left, tune

ZERO

iTrader: (23)

x2, i did the mistake of doing a cam swap with out the supporting mods
and the results were

02sslayer

iTrader: (4)

get an slp flow pac TD's and LT's. that is one way at least. i have that setup and me car does 12.9. and it cost me less than 1000$

MadIceV8

iTrader: (12)

Agreed. Mid 12's should not be an issue if you can drive.

To do a Cam + tune will easily put you at $1,000+.

TXZ28LS1

iTrader: (5)

right on Mad Ice. also, makes no sense to do a cam swap without the supporting mods. get some used longtube headers, air lid, pulley, and some good tires. and maybe use the rest towards a bit of suspension like subframes and LCA and stuff. you should be able to probably get all those parts in the used section and u might have a few hundred left over to save for your next mod like a cam, converter, or a 12 bolt.