Parts list for upcoming 383
12-30-2009, 11:03 AM
#1
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Parts list for upcoming 383 So due to my recent engine rust issue I will be pulling it in a few months so I need to start getting a parts list ready. Here is my current setup. The engine will be taken out, bored, 383 rotating assembly installed. I will also be buying the FAST intake and the Nick Williams TB. My question is, which pistons and cam do you recommend for a street car? Do I need to switch out the 3500 stall and 42lb. injectors for something else? Which pushrods, oil pump, lifters, and head gaskets do you recommend? Do you have any other recommended items? Thanks in advance for your help.
Engine:
346 c.i. LS1 V8
Cylinder Head Specialties Stage 2 - 5.7 LS1 241 Heads
(REV 2.02 intake, 1.57 exhaust valves, & Patriot dual gold springs(valve drop .105 and .135 milled .030))
Comp Cam .222/.222 (Dur.) .566/.566(Lift) 112 (LSA)
Comp Cam Chromeoly Pushrods
Rollmaster Dual Roll Timing Chain
Yella Terra 1.7 Roller Rockers
Energy Suspension Endlinks Set
Hypertech 160' Thermostat
Taylor 10 m.m. Plug Wires
NGK TR6 Spark Plugs
Racetronix 42lb./hr. Fuel Injectors
Walbro 255lr./hr. In-Tank Fuel Pump
Intake:
LS6 Intake
Ported Throttle Body
SLP Mass Air Flow Sensor
SLP Flo-Pac
Exhaust:
Jet Hot Coated Headers
" " Y-Pipe
" " Exhaust
" " McCord Electric Race Ready Cut-Out
Transmission:
Stage IV Speed Inc. Max Evil Transmission
Energy Suspension Trans. Mount
TCI 3500 Stall Converter
B&M Supercooler
Rear End:
3.73 GM Motive Gears
TA Performance Rear End Girdle
Engine:
346 c.i. LS1 V8
Cylinder Head Specialties Stage 2 - 5.7 LS1 241 Heads
(REV 2.02 intake, 1.57 exhaust valves, & Patriot dual gold springs(valve drop .105 and .135 milled .030))
Comp Cam .222/.222 (Dur.) .566/.566(Lift) 112 (LSA)
Comp Cam Chromeoly Pushrods
Rollmaster Dual Roll Timing Chain
Yella Terra 1.7 Roller Rockers
Energy Suspension Endlinks Set
Hypertech 160' Thermostat
Taylor 10 m.m. Plug Wires
NGK TR6 Spark Plugs
Racetronix 42lb./hr. Fuel Injectors
Walbro 255lr./hr. In-Tank Fuel Pump
Intake:
LS6 Intake
Ported Throttle Body
SLP Mass Air Flow Sensor
SLP Flo-Pac
Exhaust:
Jet Hot Coated Headers
" " Y-Pipe
" " Exhaust
" " McCord Electric Race Ready Cut-Out
Transmission:
Stage IV Speed Inc. Max Evil Transmission
Energy Suspension Trans. Mount
TCI 3500 Stall Converter
B&M Supercooler
Rear End:
3.73 GM Motive Gears
TA Performance Rear End Girdle
12-30-2009, 03:48 PM
#2
OK I am in the middle of building my 383 right now, First off I can tell you its expensive.. and I am assembling mine myself.
1-You will not have to bore your cylinders, cant do it on these motors, Only a hone to size to fit your pistons.
2-Pistons, if you plan on spraying this motor or any power adders, I would go with wiseco, or diamond, I am using wiseco. If you are gonna keep it n/a you can get away with probes (inexpensive)
3-I would say that your stall and injectors are fine.
4-Pushrods, Your choice, I have TSP pushrods, great price and nice pieces.
5-Lifters , Your best and most affordable bet would be using The LS7 lifters They are about a 100$ You will need to install the heads and cam ,then measure to get the correct pushrod length, because the lifter cups in the LS7are a different height than the LS1 lifters that you cant buy anymore anyway.
6-Oil pump is up to you also, lotta guys love the ported LS6 oil pump, and alot of guys love the melling, bout the same price.
7-You will be fine using GM MLS head gaskets
last, I see that your cam is on the small side, you can get away with a much bigger aggressive grind, and to take advantage of the extra cubes, I would go bigger. You will need to have the computer tuned anyway..
Hope this helps, Just my .02
1-You will not have to bore your cylinders, cant do it on these motors, Only a hone to size to fit your pistons.
2-Pistons, if you plan on spraying this motor or any power adders, I would go with wiseco, or diamond, I am using wiseco. If you are gonna keep it n/a you can get away with probes (inexpensive)
3-I would say that your stall and injectors are fine.
4-Pushrods, Your choice, I have TSP pushrods, great price and nice pieces.
5-Lifters , Your best and most affordable bet would be using The LS7 lifters They are about a 100$ You will need to install the heads and cam ,then measure to get the correct pushrod length, because the lifter cups in the LS7are a different height than the LS1 lifters that you cant buy anymore anyway.
6-Oil pump is up to you also, lotta guys love the ported LS6 oil pump, and alot of guys love the melling, bout the same price.
7-You will be fine using GM MLS head gaskets
last, I see that your cam is on the small side, you can get away with a much bigger aggressive grind, and to take advantage of the extra cubes, I would go bigger. You will need to have the computer tuned anyway..
Hope this helps, Just my .02
12-30-2009, 04:30 PM
#3
i agree^^^
IM going to recommend and add in what i would say
Keep 3500 stall it will work fine
and there is no "im going to bore" on an LS1. it is hone only. if someone is trying to sell you on a bore, they are mistaken. a hone will be less $$ as well. Depending on the rod style and prob stroke, they will prob have to clearance the block for that
Engine:
346 c.i. LS1 V8
Cylinder Head Specialties Stage 2 - 5.7 LS1 241 Heads
(REV 2.02 intake, 1.57 exhaust valves, & Patriot dual gold springs(valve drop .105 and .135 milled .030))
Comp Cam .222/.222 (Dur.) .566/.566(Lift) 112 (LSA) i would use a cam that is better matched to your heads.
Comp Cam Chromeoly Pushrods
Rollmaster Dual Roll Timing Chain i would use a single roller imo.
Yella Terra 1.7 Roller Rockers
Energy Suspension Endlinks Set not sure what this has to do with an engine build
Hypertech 160' Thermostat
Taylor 10 m.m. Plug Wires you really do not need these but ok
NGK TR6 Spark Plugs
Racetronix 42lb./hr. Fuel Injectors
Walbro 255lr./hr. In-Tank Fuel Pump
Intake:
LS6 Intake - but are you not getting the fast and nw tb?
Ported Throttle Body not needed
SLP Mass Air Flow Sensor not sure why you really need this either
SLP Flo-Pac
Exhaust: there is no need to coat everything. esp if the headers you get are stainless
Jet Hot Coated Headers
" " Y-Pipe
" " Exhaust
" " McCord Electric Race Ready Cut-Out
Transmission:
Stage IV Speed Inc. Max Evil Transmission
Energy Suspension Trans. Mount
TCI 3500 Stall Converter
B&M Supercooler
Rear End:
3.73 GM Motive Gears
TA Performance Rear End Girdle
IM going to recommend and add in what i would say
Keep 3500 stall it will work fine
and there is no "im going to bore" on an LS1. it is hone only. if someone is trying to sell you on a bore, they are mistaken. a hone will be less $$ as well. Depending on the rod style and prob stroke, they will prob have to clearance the block for that
Engine:
346 c.i. LS1 V8
Cylinder Head Specialties Stage 2 - 5.7 LS1 241 Heads
(REV 2.02 intake, 1.57 exhaust valves, & Patriot dual gold springs(valve drop .105 and .135 milled .030))
Comp Cam .222/.222 (Dur.) .566/.566(Lift) 112 (LSA) i would use a cam that is better matched to your heads.
Comp Cam Chromeoly Pushrods
Rollmaster Dual Roll Timing Chain i would use a single roller imo.
Yella Terra 1.7 Roller Rockers
Energy Suspension Endlinks Set not sure what this has to do with an engine build
Hypertech 160' Thermostat
Taylor 10 m.m. Plug Wires you really do not need these but ok
NGK TR6 Spark Plugs
Racetronix 42lb./hr. Fuel Injectors
Walbro 255lr./hr. In-Tank Fuel Pump
Intake:
LS6 Intake - but are you not getting the fast and nw tb?
Ported Throttle Body not needed
SLP Mass Air Flow Sensor not sure why you really need this either
SLP Flo-Pac
Exhaust: there is no need to coat everything. esp if the headers you get are stainless
Jet Hot Coated Headers
" " Y-Pipe
" " Exhaust
" " McCord Electric Race Ready Cut-Out
Transmission:
Stage IV Speed Inc. Max Evil Transmission
Energy Suspension Trans. Mount
TCI 3500 Stall Converter
B&M Supercooler
Rear End:
3.73 GM Motive Gears
TA Performance Rear End Girdle
12-30-2009, 11:48 PM
#5
Ok, that changes things. Keep the stall and injectors. cam....i would go with something closer to .600 lift or a little bit above and something in the 228/232 range or something of the sort. for the pump, just use LS6 pump or our sd3964b. its blueprinted and ported ls6 style pump. this way you wont have to clearance with the double roller you are running. bascially everything that is above my other post. LS7 lifters and measure for pushrods. if you happen to need something in a diff size, we offer the manley pushrods for $100 for the set. gm mls gaskets will work fine.
as for pistons, you can run a manley power pack, which comes with pistons and rings. we have them available for $599. They are forged and im sure they have some in the size and type needed for a 383 engine. also depends on the rod you are going to use, either 6.100 or 6.125. make sure you choose the right piston for the rod you are using.
as for pistons, you can run a manley power pack, which comes with pistons and rings. we have them available for $599. They are forged and im sure they have some in the size and type needed for a 383 engine. also depends on the rod you are going to use, either 6.100 or 6.125. make sure you choose the right piston for the rod you are using.
