LQx or rebuild the LS1? (will the LQ work with my H/C setup?)
02-02-2010, 09:28 AM
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LQx or rebuild the LS1? (will the LQ work with my H/C setup?) So I finished the LS1 swap in my 240sx and its a beast but my oil pressure sucks ***** (high teens idle and 20-30's under load up to about 4k rpm) This is with a 10w-40 dino oil and a shimmed LS6/2? pump
Its my fault for not pulling the bottom end apart and mic'ing it.
So I am at a cross road, do I rebuild the LS1 (cyl were in great shape when I built it) Or do I buy an LQ4 or LQ9?
If I buy an LQx will my head Cam package work w/o PTV issues? 243's and a MS4 stock rockers/pushrod length.
Obviously if I went LQ I would go through the motor, before install.
What parts can I reuse? Since I only have maybe a 1000 miles on this build I dont want to have to get a new oil pump/pushrods/lifters/springs again.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Its my fault for not pulling the bottom end apart and mic'ing it.
So I am at a cross road, do I rebuild the LS1 (cyl were in great shape when I built it) Or do I buy an LQ4 or LQ9?
If I buy an LQx will my head Cam package work w/o PTV issues? 243's and a MS4 stock rockers/pushrod length.
Obviously if I went LQ I would go through the motor, before install.
What parts can I reuse? Since I only have maybe a 1000 miles on this build I dont want to have to get a new oil pump/pushrods/lifters/springs again.
Thanks in advance for any help.
02-02-2010, 10:45 AM
#2
Everything should swap over, but I couldn't tell you about the PTV or pushrod length, that's something you'll have to figure out on your own and could be different depending on the shortblock and heads. I don't know what accessories you're using either, but you may need to drill on the front driver side of the block for a bracket.
I'd be concerned about what you did to cause the low oil pressure, so you don't do it again. Usually when it's low, it's a leak somewhere internally. Could be a pinched o-ring, or the pickup is too close to the pan.
I'd be concerned about what you did to cause the low oil pressure, so you don't do it again. Usually when it's low, it's a leak somewhere internally. Could be a pinched o-ring, or the pickup is too close to the pan.
02-02-2010, 10:51 AM
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Everything should swap over, but I couldn't tell you about the PTV or pushrod length, that's something you'll have to figure out on your own and could be different depending on the shortblock and heads. I don't know what accessories you're using either, but you may need to drill on the front driver side of the block for a bracket.
I'd be concerned about what you did to cause the low oil pressure, so you don't do it again. Usually when it's low, it's a leak somewhere internally. Could be a pinched o-ring, or the pickup is too close to the pan.
I'd be concerned about what you did to cause the low oil pressure, so you don't do it again. Usually when it's low, it's a leak somewhere internally. Could be a pinched o-ring, or the pickup is too close to the pan.
Car runs about 190-200*
there is almost 1/4" clearance on the pan (GTO pan/pickup)
When I went to 10-40 from 5-30 it picked up ~15PSi across the board and I am using an aftermarket sensor so it rules out the stocker.
02-02-2010, 12:17 PM
#4
The o-ring and pickup clearance always seem to be the most common and are usually a good place to start, however it could be bearing clearances or even the oil pump. The only way to know for sure is taking it all apart, there are a million things that could cause low oil pressure.
