cam noob
 

I'm running a 2001 SS Camaro M6 with bolt-ons. I'm planning on doing a cam only swap here in a few weeks. I'm looking at a Comp custom grind of 230/232 .592/.595 on XER lobes with a 110LSA+2. Would this be too large for stock heads? Will 7.4" pushrods be sufficient for this setup? I plan on using the comp 918 springs also. I don't want to remove the heads to check the PVC, so I want to just be 100% sure with whatever cam I purchase, that I won't have problems there. From experienced cam people, what advise do you have for me here? I currently dyno'd 350rwhp/364ft-lb on a DynoJet and would love to see 400rwhp. Would this be near possible with a cam only setup? Thanks for ANY input ANYBODY has to say. I've only had my f-body for 3 months and am trying to figure out what's best. I don't have the money for a head change currently, but I will have the car tuned ASAP after the cam swap. I don't understand the people that drive around un-tuned...

port and polish your throttle body.you are heading in the right direction.start searching for a good tuner that knows their LS tunes.

I've got a guy that has supposedly tuned hundreds of LS1s and should be able to make the best of it for me. I'm more concerned with that size being safe to go with. I will be daily driving the car, and I know everybody has their own idea of what DD is, but I'm only 20 and like annoying stuff for now. I'm a big DIY person, but I'm not sure how good of a job I'd be at porting the TB =/

That cam size is FINE and the springs your going to use should be sufficiant.
7.4 pushrods will work but it's always a smart thing to check anyways.
Porting your TB is easy look for some more info on it.
Or have someone on here do it for you.

What happens if I am a little too short on the pushrod length? I think with this cam most people would be using a 7.425"-ish. Thanks for the input! Reassurance always gives you a little more confidence before you tear into something that you've never been in :nod:

A lot of noise and possible damage in the long run if you guess really short. To best cover your bases, get an adjustable PR, and a couple different lengths of PRs, and just return what you didn't need.

alot of people making 400 hp with #241s.I think there a sticky on proper push rod length ..you want .050 - .080 lifter preload. install push rod and rocker,hand tighten rocker arm bolt.when the bolt is finger tight and the push rod dose not spin ,that is 0 lash.you want to torque the bolt to 22lbs. if it takes more than 1 3/4 turns of the bolt to reach 22lbs the push rod is too long,less than 1 1/4 turns the push rod is too short.use a stock push rod to test for proper length,or get a adjustable push rod checker.

I thought that the stock PRs deformed easily? Doesn't seem like they'd be a good check for proper length. I'll look into that sticky. Thanks for the tip...i'm assuming thats with the piston at TDC or does it matter?

That cam will be a good cam for you, and 7.4 push rods will be ok, just install it and enjoy.

you are right you want the lifters for #1 on the base circle of the cam. you only have to measure for 1 cylinder. you are only using the stock PR for checking proper length,than order some good push rods and springs from TSP.

Definetly measure man. You don't want to fuck your motor up just cause your in a hurry and didn't want to take the time to measure. Im sure you could pick up the tool fairly cheap, and thats money well spent in my book.

Your in good hands with your tuner :D

Did you end up doing the cam in your original post or the XFI/XER combo I told you about?

The stock pushrods aren't made out of fucking rubber. You think they are all bent and deformed when GM installs them and run that way for a hundred thousand miles or more until they are replaced? Come on.. They are fine to test with.

That's funny...I told my wife the same thing.....

Don't be lazy/cheap. An adjustable pushrod is $20 and takes 10 minutes to use. Regarding PTV, ideally you want to have the heads off and measure, but that cam seems to be around the area of what most are running. The narrow LSA with even more advance ground in could be problematic, but doubtful.

Yes. :nod:

You don't have to take the heads off to measure PTV clearance. When you put the cam in degree it. Put the two light valve springs on #1 cylinder and do it that way. It would be easier than pulling the heads off.

A cam degree kit is about $135. They do sell a special LS1 tool to help turn the motor over. I don't know how much that is.

I would run doubles on an X-ER lobe. They are very agressive. An LSL lobe I think you be ok on a beehive......

you're alive! and is the OP the sam i know?

Ha yessir. I'll have my cam and Gomer tune here before too long :D

you, like adam and matt, have now joined the group trying to catch me. you better get a new clutch in that thing before the cam, esp since the way we drive yours won't last long. also id hate to have to break in a new clutch on new cam.

And when we racing for your woman? I believe she belongs to me for a night if i remember correctly. I'd hate to have to up it to 2. :devil: