Is my H/C/I combo correct for my RWHP #'s? *Pic of DYNO Graph & Mod list included*
#21
Banned
iTrader: (1)
yeah it sounds right for a budget combo. My 5 year old 228/232, ls6 intake, patriot headed combo went 430 through an M6... got something better now though..
then again there's combos like chris1313 making almost 490 rwhp through a stock bottom end locked A4.. but he has a fast, out of the box cast TFS heads and a custom cam (same cost as any other cam) and a lot of attention to detail. It explains the 75 rwhp difference.
You can always spray it for more power.
then again there's combos like chris1313 making almost 490 rwhp through a stock bottom end locked A4.. but he has a fast, out of the box cast TFS heads and a custom cam (same cost as any other cam) and a lot of attention to detail. It explains the 75 rwhp difference.
You can always spray it for more power.
#22
#'s in sig. i've got an M6 with same heads very similiar cam and with a FAST 92out of the box. I am happy with my numbers considering mine was a budget build. You could probably use bigger injectors to that may help on the top end of it.
Take it to the track and see what it runs.
Take it to the track and see what it runs.
#23
10 Second Club
iTrader: (10)
Id say your right on par, I'd say a ls1 with prc 5.3 heads and a tqv3 would make 420 out of the box. You made 413 not that bad I'd say and 385 ft. lbs. is pretty good in an auto. Just think it could be worse you could have spent 2x as much money on a 3V and only make 375rwhp!!
#25
10 Second Club
iTrader: (14)
Matt,
Don't worry about the numbers just yet cause honestly I think they are on point. I think its more of a problem with your mods being slapped together and not match correctly. Get that suspension fixed and some track times first. You will eventually need a FAST intake and I think upgrading to a SS3600 stall will greatly benefit you too.
Hurry up and get it together so I can spank that *** again
Don't worry about the numbers just yet cause honestly I think they are on point. I think its more of a problem with your mods being slapped together and not match correctly. Get that suspension fixed and some track times first. You will eventually need a FAST intake and I think upgrading to a SS3600 stall will greatly benefit you too.
Hurry up and get it together so I can spank that *** again
#26
10 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: In Uranus!
Posts: 1,500
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Matt,
Don't worry about the numbers just yet cause honestly I think they are on point. I think its more of a problem with your mods being slapped together and not match correctly. Get that suspension fixed and some track times first. You will eventually need a FAST intake and I think upgrading to a SS3600 stall will greatly benefit you too.
Hurry up and get it together so I can spank that *** again
Don't worry about the numbers just yet cause honestly I think they are on point. I think its more of a problem with your mods being slapped together and not match correctly. Get that suspension fixed and some track times first. You will eventually need a FAST intake and I think upgrading to a SS3600 stall will greatly benefit you too.
Hurry up and get it together so I can spank that *** again
#29
TECH Addict
iTrader: (4)
For perspective. My car did 427 rwhp and 398 rwtq when it had a 6 speed, this was on a relatively stingy Dynojet. (Stock bottom, AFR 205, 224/228 cam and all the bolt ons)
I swapped in a 4L80 with a Yank SS4000 and dyno'd again, this time on a Mustang dyno. I don't recall the dyno #'s, but it was a lot less, as I couldn't lock the verter at WOT using the Compushift. We did a 1/4 mile simulation on the load dyno and it ran 11.2x.
Went to the track and ran 11.36 @ 120... not bad at all IMO
Moral to the story is, like Jon Janz said, don't worry about the dyno number, race it and see what it does.
I swapped in a 4L80 with a Yank SS4000 and dyno'd again, this time on a Mustang dyno. I don't recall the dyno #'s, but it was a lot less, as I couldn't lock the verter at WOT using the Compushift. We did a 1/4 mile simulation on the load dyno and it ran 11.2x.
Went to the track and ran 11.36 @ 120... not bad at all IMO
Moral to the story is, like Jon Janz said, don't worry about the dyno number, race it and see what it does.
#30
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: NOLA
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yeah it sounds right for a budget combo. My 5 year old 228/232, ls6 intake, patriot headed combo went 430 through an M6... got something better now though..
then again there's combos like chris1313 making almost 490 rwhp through a stock bottom end locked A4.. but he has a fast, out of the box cast TFS heads and a custom cam (same cost as any other cam) and a lot of attention to detail. It explains the 75 rwhp difference.
You can always spray it for more power.
then again there's combos like chris1313 making almost 490 rwhp through a stock bottom end locked A4.. but he has a fast, out of the box cast TFS heads and a custom cam (same cost as any other cam) and a lot of attention to detail. It explains the 75 rwhp difference.
You can always spray it for more power.
#'s in sig. i've got an M6 with same heads very similiar cam and with a FAST 92out of the box. I am happy with my numbers considering mine was a budget build. You could probably use bigger injectors to that may help on the top end of it.
Take it to the track and see what it runs.
Take it to the track and see what it runs.
Id say your right on par, I'd say a ls1 with prc 5.3 heads and a tqv3 would make 420 out of the box. You made 413 not that bad I'd say and 385 ft. lbs. is pretty good in an auto. Just think it could be worse you could have spent 2x as much money on a 3V and only make 375rwhp!!
For perspective. My car did 427 rwhp and 398 rwtq when it had a 6 speed, this was on a relatively stingy Dynojet. (Stock bottom, AFR 205, 224/228 cam and all the bolt ons)
I swapped in a 4L80 with a Yank SS4000 and dyno'd again, this time on a Mustang dyno. I don't recall the dyno #'s, but it was a lot less, as I couldn't lock the verter at WOT using the Compushift. We did a 1/4 mile simulation on the load dyno and it ran 11.2x.
Went to the track and ran 11.36 @ 120... not bad at all IMO
Moral to the story is, like Jon Janz said, don't worry about the dyno number, race it and see what it does.
I swapped in a 4L80 with a Yank SS4000 and dyno'd again, this time on a Mustang dyno. I don't recall the dyno #'s, but it was a lot less, as I couldn't lock the verter at WOT using the Compushift. We did a 1/4 mile simulation on the load dyno and it ran 11.2x.
Went to the track and ran 11.36 @ 120... not bad at all IMO
Moral to the story is, like Jon Janz said, don't worry about the dyno number, race it and see what it does.
Thanks for all the input fellas. No I haven't ran it at the track yet...I'm awaiting new shocks/springs. I'll post up some numbers once I get to the the track.
Matt,
Don't worry about the numbers just yet cause honestly I think they are on point. I think its more of a problem with your mods being slapped together and not match correctly. Get that suspension fixed and some track times first. You will eventually need a FAST intake and I think upgrading to a SS3600 stall will greatly benefit you too.
Hurry up and get it together so I can spank that *** again
Don't worry about the numbers just yet cause honestly I think they are on point. I think its more of a problem with your mods being slapped together and not match correctly. Get that suspension fixed and some track times first. You will eventually need a FAST intake and I think upgrading to a SS3600 stall will greatly benefit you too.
Hurry up and get it together so I can spank that *** again
Thanks. I'll be getting the FAST once I get my funds together, just not sure what to do about the mods being currently used. The only thing I can see that I could do to help besides the air intake/TB situation is the converter and possibly a custom grind cam. But I'm not sure if it's worth all the $ and labor costs to change out the cam at this time...
I'm also looking at lowering my shift point...I'm still on the fence on this and was hoping some members on here had some advice...anyone?
Hopefully I'll be getting most of the kinks out in the next month or so...
-Matt