Futural F14 Owners in Here
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Futural F14 Owners in Here
Ok I am wanting to add a F14 to my build but I can't decide on the normal or high lift one. I would like to see HP and TQ numbers as well as videos showing idle and WOT. I also want to know what valve train upgrades you have done. I have heard the valvetrain can sound like its boosted and a pissed off sewing machine. I do not want one that sounds like a sewing machine, so what did you do to fix the noise (longer pushrods?). I will be having all bolt ons except heads, and planing on going Procharger next summer. Thanks guys
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I can tell you from experience of tuning them...
the high lift one is not a huge gain in HP/TQ..but there is a little bit more there in the upper RPM
the overlap will make that procharger very useless...sort of...
figure you will get half the boost of what you put in because of the cam overlap..put in an expected 12psi, get an actual 6psi in MAP readings.
assuming stock height heads...go with a 7.425 pushrod and it wont sound like a sewing machine
the high lift one is not a huge gain in HP/TQ..but there is a little bit more there in the upper RPM
the overlap will make that procharger very useless...sort of...
figure you will get half the boost of what you put in because of the cam overlap..put in an expected 12psi, get an actual 6psi in MAP readings.
assuming stock height heads...go with a 7.425 pushrod and it wont sound like a sewing machine
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What would you recommend for use with the procharger then? Just the normal lift F14 cam? I don't know much at all about cams... I will probably buy LS6 heads at some point and have them ported. Will 7.425 pushrods be fine with them also? I don't need any other valvetrain upgrades? Thanks
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something with less overlap...like an F7
with a forced induction application I always recommend a double valvespring for better control and reliability.
if you are going to spend the money for an Ls6 head and have it ported.. just buy a patriot head that is already done...its going to be a little more money(but not a lot more), but you will have better results
you will need to know if the head you choose has been shaved or decked in any way to know if you have the correct pushrod.
the cam has a slightly smaller base circle so it needs a slightly longer pushrod, but at the same time if your head choice is not a stock height then you may need a differnt pushrod.,.
only way to be certain is to measure and order after measuring.
and dont get me wrong...I'm saying to go with an f7 because it tends to be a lot better when using a supercharger..
you dont have to go smaller, you can use it with the f14... you just wont make near as much power as you would with an f7 because of all the pressure forcing everything out the exhaust...
with a forced induction application I always recommend a double valvespring for better control and reliability.
if you are going to spend the money for an Ls6 head and have it ported.. just buy a patriot head that is already done...its going to be a little more money(but not a lot more), but you will have better results
you will need to know if the head you choose has been shaved or decked in any way to know if you have the correct pushrod.
the cam has a slightly smaller base circle so it needs a slightly longer pushrod, but at the same time if your head choice is not a stock height then you may need a differnt pushrod.,.
only way to be certain is to measure and order after measuring.
and dont get me wrong...I'm saying to go with an f7 because it tends to be a lot better when using a supercharger..
you dont have to go smaller, you can use it with the f14... you just wont make near as much power as you would with an f7 because of all the pressure forcing everything out the exhaust...
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My personal preference...
Manley 221436 = $225
Valve spring Locators = $65
Titanium retainers = $220
or steel retainers = $55
Manley 7* locks = $50
$395~$560 depending on if you go with steel or titanium retainers...
as a reference...single springs would cost you $30 less total cost..
Manley 221436 = $225
Valve spring Locators = $65
Titanium retainers = $220
or steel retainers = $55
Manley 7* locks = $50
$395~$560 depending on if you go with steel or titanium retainers...
as a reference...single springs would cost you $30 less total cost..
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Ok I found some kits and if I go with a F9 (or would you guys recommend the F7 with the ProCharger or Vortech). I would get the kit and a TSP set of pushrods. What size pushrod with the F9? Here's the kits I have found so far..
Like these from Patriot with Titanium Retainers for $275..
https://www.patriot-performance.com/...&cat=51&page=1
Or a Lunati kit with Steel Retainers for $225
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2584&gid=322
Or this Precision Race set with Titanium retainers, seals and pushrods for only $379.95
http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp...d=172&catid=54
Like these from Patriot with Titanium Retainers for $275..
https://www.patriot-performance.com/...&cat=51&page=1
Or a Lunati kit with Steel Retainers for $225
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2584&gid=322
Or this Precision Race set with Titanium retainers, seals and pushrods for only $379.95
http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp...d=172&catid=54
Last edited by pemberton; 08-24-2010 at 05:56 PM.
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both kits will be fine
the thing to remember is that most aftermarket cams have a smaller base circle than the stock ls1 cam does... this equates to needing a slightly longer pushrod
most cam manufacturers use comp cams to do their grinds...
and typically a 7.425 is the pushrod you need with most of these aftermarket cams.
when in doubt, ask the cam designer...they almost always know what you need to use if you can tell them your valvetrain/heads setup
the thing to remember is that most aftermarket cams have a smaller base circle than the stock ls1 cam does... this equates to needing a slightly longer pushrod
most cam manufacturers use comp cams to do their grinds...
and typically a 7.425 is the pushrod you need with most of these aftermarket cams.
when in doubt, ask the cam designer...they almost always know what you need to use if you can tell them your valvetrain/heads setup
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Also how much power can be had with just the F9 or F7 cam, other mods would be long tube headers and true 3" duals. I can't find any numbers or a video of how it sounds...
Last edited by pemberton; 08-24-2010 at 09:14 PM.
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I have went 10.90@123mph 1.46 60ft with a full weight (3620lb raceweight), stock suspension 2002 Camaro Z28 with a tweeked form of the F14 high lift cam. Allan Decided to go with a 232/236-646/612@114LSA cam and Trick Flow 215cnc heads. Of course with supporting mods..This was on the motor with no nitrous.
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I also spent roughly the same amount on all the mods to do a cam swap. It's better to spend the money up front and get what you want/need, than to cheap out and regret it later on.
Nice, do you have any numbers on your setup?
Nice, do you have any numbers on your setup?
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First what are your power goals? As people have mentioned a blower and F14 cam are not compatable.
I bought my car ready to go from a board member earlier this year. It has the F14HL (112LSA), with Dart 225 heads on a LQ4 bottom end. From what he told me it has the Patriot extreme springs and seems to be holding up well running with the rev limeter around 6700. The drivetrain is suprisingly quiet. Seems to be very well setup from the speed shop. I have not dynoed it myself, but it is supposedly running 430rwhp and around 410rwtq. And it feels every bit of that too.
If your budget can manage that supercharger then I say go for it. But damn to properly set one of those up is alot of money. I sure think the heads cam setup would be cheaper for you. I have not experienced many cams but I am loving the hell out of the f14 so far.
I bought my car ready to go from a board member earlier this year. It has the F14HL (112LSA), with Dart 225 heads on a LQ4 bottom end. From what he told me it has the Patriot extreme springs and seems to be holding up well running with the rev limeter around 6700. The drivetrain is suprisingly quiet. Seems to be very well setup from the speed shop. I have not dynoed it myself, but it is supposedly running 430rwhp and around 410rwtq. And it feels every bit of that too.
If your budget can manage that supercharger then I say go for it. But damn to properly set one of those up is alot of money. I sure think the heads cam setup would be cheaper for you. I have not experienced many cams but I am loving the hell out of the f14 so far.
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How is a double spring kit, longer hardened pushrods, camshaft, gaskets and fluids "doing it wrong"? I am just asking. It's not like a F7 or F9 is a very aggressive cam either.