what's with all the different torque specs for arp head bolts?
12-01-2010, 02:38 PM
#21
Launching!
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
12-01-2010, 03:17 PM
#22
(My earlier reference to the 70 ft. lbs. was simply that using 1st and 2nd passes of 30 and 50 could end with a final pass of either 70 or 75 ft. lbs. - but you do not need any preliminary passes.)
12-01-2010, 04:22 PM
#23
Launching!
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Correct except use 75 ft lbs - which is ARPs currently effective specification.
(My earlier reference to the 70 ft. lbs. was simply that using 1st and 2nd passes of 30 and 50 could end with a final pass of either 70 or 75 ft. lbs. - but you do not need any preliminary passes.)
(My earlier reference to the 70 ft. lbs. was simply that using 1st and 2nd passes of 30 and 50 could end with a final pass of either 70 or 75 ft. lbs. - but you do not need any preliminary passes.)
12-01-2010, 04:32 PM
#24
TECH Senior Member
[ silly me, in post #18, I had forgot that the washers were upside down ]
Yes, the chamfer shape on the edge of washer hole goes toward the bolt head (i.e. facing up).
I just bought this same set of ARP bolts last month, and the instructions do say 75 ftlb.
Yes, the chamfer shape on the edge of washer hole goes toward the bolt head (i.e. facing up).
I just bought this same set of ARP bolts last month, and the instructions do say 75 ftlb.
Last edited by joecar; 12-01-2010 at 04:39 PM.
01-15-2011, 03:53 PM
#25
Launching!
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Correct except use 75 ft lbs - which is ARPs currently effective specification.
(My earlier reference to the 70 ft. lbs. was simply that using 1st and 2nd passes of 30 and 50 could end with a final pass of either 70 or 75 ft. lbs. - but you do not need any preliminary passes.)
(My earlier reference to the 70 ft. lbs. was simply that using 1st and 2nd passes of 30 and 50 could end with a final pass of either 70 or 75 ft. lbs. - but you do not need any preliminary passes.)
01-28-2011, 05:50 PM
#27
Launching!
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
okay so the middle bolts under the valve coverf seem to have some oil on the threads of the bolts. The bolt hole itself looks completly clear when I shine a light down into the hole. Is this a problem? Where would the oil be coming from? Thanks
01-29-2011, 08:29 AM
#28
11 Second Club
iTrader: (103)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: South of West Point Iowa
Posts: 2,633
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Darkman. . . . the picture of the instructions shows 25 for the m8 bolts... and it also says to torque them in 3 equal steps. To me this means 25/50/75 for the m10's and 8/16/25 for the m8's....
01-29-2011, 09:23 AM
#29
Regarding the use of three equal passes, as I indicated in post #17, I see no reason to follow that in Splitfinger09's case because he is removing one bolt at a time to check whether the washer has been installed upside down. That procedure presumably will not disturb the mating of head/gasket/block established by his original, 3-pass torque sequence.
01-29-2011, 11:42 AM
#30
11 Second Club
iTrader: (103)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: South of West Point Iowa
Posts: 2,633
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
I would remove one at a time and torque to 25. . . in sequence, 50 then final 75. But again, 1 at a time removed. It'll reduce the stresses on the heads/block and apply them evenly as he goes. Just me. This way the gasket never comes loose, all bolts are torqued in sequence and at appropriate values.
