msydow

hopefully pulling valve covers will tell something. sounds like valve train noise though. possibly loose rockers. good luck.

Paul57

You are probably right about it not being a pushrod legth issue. That should have showed up right away.

always faster

iTrader: (6)

Well updates are in.I took the valve cover off and inspect everything.Nothing broken or loose.I then put the cylindre no#2 at TDC and torqued the rocker.At zero lash I get a little more than 3/4 of a turn @ 22 ft/lbs(maybe 1/16 more but thats about it) so my 7.40 pushrod seems to be to short.

Also with a sharpie marker i test the wipe pattern and i saw that my pattern is more on the intake side instead of being centered.So again leading me toward a too short pushrod.From what i ve read(yella terra instructions),each 1/4 of a turn is around 10-12 inch preload.Good preload is between .060 and .100(between 1 1/4 and 1 3/4 turn base on 7.40 rods).So ill order some 7.425 inch pushrods.This will get me just a tad over .060

I also realise that each time that i play with the rocker (unbolt,check,lash test,re-torque) the sound get back and then goes slightly away with the engine warming up.So this also got me to think thats its really valvetrain related.

Here is a clips with my engine fully warmed up (190 degree):

http://s799.photobucket.com/albums/y...efullywarm.mp4

Keep the idea coming.I will not get the pushrod until tuesday afternoon ...

Paul 75 L82

iTrader: (1)

Sound like your on the right track.

always faster

iTrader: (6)

UPDATE!!!

-I ve put the 7.425 pushrods and it make the sound louder and worst so i ve ordered a real pushrod length checker and i ll do it the proper way.

-Im the owner of the car only since july last year and only made less than 1000miles with it.When the cam swap was made,we saw that the timing chain was nearly new(and i mean no sign of wear).Same thing on the cam sprocket...We also saw that the oil pump had a really big notch(wide like a timing chain ) on the casing,just like if something had rub and smash against it.I also saw a huge crack in the casing near where the pick up tube connect.

My answer: the timing chain probably break and snap the oil pump badly wich probably damage the oil pump but could also have damage my head valve while the crank was still turning but not the cam...If it was the case ,the head have been taken off and probably repaired and milled...

If the head have been milled i could need shorter pushrods but i ll wait to check it with the checker this week end(i hope)

Paul 75 L82

iTrader: (1)

Maybe the shorter pushrods will be the answer. I'm sending good vibes your way.

Paul57

That didn't work so well last time.

c0ncEpT

iTrader: (4)

Inspect all your rockers very closely for damage. It is possible that one of them is starting to loose the needle bearings.

Does the sound come from one valve cover or from both?

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

I hate to say it, but welcome to the world of aggressive camshafts, strong springs and aluminum heads and headers. If you've checked everything, and you're not getting any knock, and it runs well, then just drive it. Most likely, with the more aggresive springs, it's collapsing the lifters after you shut down the motor. It then takes a minute or so for the oil pressure in the lifters to pump up and take up the slack on the pushrods.

It's totally normal, at least listening to it on the internet.

always faster

iTrader: (6)

And you are damn right.Since the cam has been put it:

-I ve took off my valve cover/coils brackets so many times that i can do it with one hand in the dark.
-I ve check,re check and re re check all my parts integrity(springs,lock,retainer,seats,rockers,push rods)
-I ve measure/inspect every single thing more than some guy will ever do in there own entire life
-The wipe pattern is dead center on my valve stem on each cylindre
-I took the pushrods length wih a pushrods length checker on each cylindre
-I even took the the value with a feeler gauge between the rocker tip and the valve stem...
-I test the lifter preload so many times that i ve probably put more stress on them than a running engine would do...
-Put some blue ink inside the valve cover to see if the rocker would hit somewhere...
-The car doesnt overheat(steady around 190 even when running hard)
-Oil pressure is over 30 psi full hot at idle ,over 40 psi when steady running 70mph on the highway and a lot higher when going WOT
-The big knock goes aways after 2-3 mins so i assume its pistons slap
-I dont get any knock at all even a full load at WOT,not even a small sign of it...

I guess this is the way my engine sound.I probably just need to be used of all the small noise that come with all those mods.Today i ve put my FAST 90/90 setup... the small noise are a little louder since the intake act like an amplifier but i ll get used to it.

Thank you all for all the tips and advice on all the test
Case closed

fuzchunk

not to revive an old post but did you check your oil for foaming? the oil pump O-ring can get dammaged durring a cam swap. air bubbles in lifters make them tick

trance565

iTrader: (4)

U oil pressure builds slow in the video and I am willing to bet either shimming ur stock pump or getting a high volume/pressure pump would cure your noise. Just had a buddy with your exact same issue.

Bocefus

iTrader: (17)

Trance565 is correct. I saw it in your video. Your oil pressure is building way too low on startup. It should jump up within 1-2 seconds, and yours takes much longer.

trance565

iTrader: (4)

Yea my buddy just did ms3, prc 675eht, 7.4 pr, mehling hp pump, ect ect and his car would tap on and off, his pressure was 30 at idle and 50+ at wot. But we still thought the pump was the issue. He took his old ls6 pump shimmed it and boom no more noise, 50psi at idle and 70+ at wot. Not sure exactly what the issue was but I do know what fixed it.

fastsspr

iTrader: (49)

I'm with KevinR i bid is a bent pushrod.

Bocefus

iTrader: (17)

If you read the whole thread, on post #8, He put TSP chromoly hardened pushrod in stock length in the car. He later put in 7.425 length, and it only made it worse. So, it is not a bent pushrod.

Fbody9700

Sounds like lifter noise to me, you should be building oil pressure ALOT faster, after even changing your oil or after a fresh rebuild it doesnt take that long, sad to say it but it's normal for a ls1 to knock on a cold start, my friends has been doing it for 50k miles, I did his h/c install, minor scoring on his sleeves, still knocks at cold. But you defentaly have a lifter noise. Good luck on finding the problem.

trance565

iTrader: (4)

Fuel pump

trance565

iTrader: (4)

Oil pump

hiltsy855

iTrader: (35)

I'd bet it's the dreaded oil pump o-ring. Oil pressure builds slow + valvetrain ticking = O-RING. It's incredibly easy to pinch the o-ring if you're installing a pump with the motor in the car.