always faster

iTrader: (6)

Yeah i know another valvetrain noise thread but not the common startup one.I did some search but no answer was found...I will try to be the most perfectly clear.

Everything is brand new and im still on break in mode.My setup:
-TSP 383 stroker(callies crank,callies rods,wiseco pistons,arp bolts everywhere)
-PRC LS6 2.5 cnc with prc .675 dual springs
-FAST Ported 90/90 setup
-Cam:240/244 .608/.612 on 113 lsa on 1.7 rocker
-Morel lifter(in ls2 tray) and comp cam 1.72 roller rocker
-ARH 1 7/8 headers
-TSP ported oil pump,double timing chain,etc etc
-Did two 45 mins heat cycle,did a oil change(br30) and now im just over 160 miles.
-I got excellent oil pressure (72psi cold/64 psi hot)
-Preload is just a tad shy of .048(morel need between .030-.050)

The car run great overall.It even run smooth on a cold statup.Idle fine with no strange noise,no knocking sound...nothing.Since im still on breaking time,i drive the car rpm up to 3000/3500rpm a lot to put some load on the engine.

And this is where it makes me wonder if everything is really alright.While driving,when i get it pass the 2000 rpm mark i could here some valvetrain noise.And if i keep it steady part throttle at 3000 rpm in 3rd for some test(without the radio on and windows close to concentrate on the noise),i could hear the valve open and shut clearly,or maybe the lifter go up and down...i dont know.

So is it just me that is not familiar with a cammed car or there is something wrong.And if there is something wrong,what should i do or check ???

Thanks

supersick99z

iTrader: (66)

You're gonna have valvetrain noise normally when cammed. If you check anything it should be pushrods length

always faster

iTrader: (6)

Would valvetrain noise in those rpm area be because of a too short pushrods or too long ???

Havoc40

To short, not enough lifter preload.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I had the exact same problem. It was my driver side collector leaking. It was like clock work, I could tell by the horrible ticking what RPM I was at without even looking at the tach. I finally found I had two small leaks on the top of the collector that was echoing off the floorboard.

This may not be your problem but I swore my valve train was noisy till I fixed this. Best of luck.

always faster

iTrader: (6)

I will measure the pushrod lenght/preload again tomorrow(for the 6th time i think) and see.But if im right with my .048 ,i just cant put anymore preload on those morel.They recommend between .030-.050 .

Thanks for your input,but i already check out that possible problem and everything is sealed thight.

Havoc40

I wasn't trying to say your problem is preload. Simply stating that when a lifter is making noise due to improper preload it's usually because of too little preload, not too much. Which would mean short pushrods. Definitely measure though and go by what Morel says.

Darkman

iTrader: (2)

I am running Morel lifters at 0.050 inch preload and no issues. I do run a pretty stout Manton pushrod. What type of pushrod are you using?

always faster

iTrader: (6)

Im running some trend(texas speed)7.275 on intake and some comp cam 7.300 on exhaust.

RARON455

iTrader: (35)

Why the two different lengths putting .025 more preload on the exhaust lifter? I have almost the exact same setup, bot I am running the morels with the link bars. My heads are the prc stage 2.5 5.3 heads, that have been cut to 59ccs, I run the tsp 7.275 pushrods on my setup,, mine makes alot of noise, I am running an eps cam pretty close to yours, I thought mine was making too much noise, checked to make sure all the rockers were getting oil, which they are, have checked my pushrod length on multiple cylinders, done it about 5 times now, always come up with 7.225 zero lash, I add the .050 for the preload as morel recommends, but mine is loud. I even bought the yella terras hoping it would quiet the setup down,,it didnt. Starting to believe its the nature of the beast.

always faster

iTrader: (6)

Well im just a tad over 8 1/2 turn for the intake valve at zero lash(7.225) so the 7.275 are ok for the .050.(im probably more in the .045 since im a tad more than 8 1/2.

Im right 9 turn on the ex valve(7.250) so the 7.300 give me .050 preload.

But i will measure it again tomoroww to see it if right again

always faster

iTrader: (6)

But maybe im doing it wrong ???

Here is what i do exactly.I do the starter method with my wife because i cant reach the damper bolts because of the steering rack:

-Intake valve-
Wait for the exhaust valve to open.To be sure i normally wait untill it would be 1/2 open;
Than take off the intake rocker and pushrod;
adjust the pushrod length checker so that the rocker would stop moving up and down or stop ticking;
You are at zero lash;
Take the checker mesearement and add the proper preload(my case between .030-.050)

-Exhaust valve-
Wait for the intake valve to close near completely;
Take off the exhaust rocker and pushrod;
adjust the pushrod length checker so that the rocker would stop moving up and down or stop ticking;
You are at zero lash;
Take the checker mesearement and add the proper preload(my case between .030-.050)


I just totally dont understand why i get two different measurement from a brand new machined block,new machined head with all new parts ???

RARON455

iTrader: (35)

Yeah, thats odd, the cam is gonna have the same base circle on the intake and exhaust lobes, and you are measuring while its on the base. I know with the yella terras I cant get my mitts in there to adjust, I have to remove it adjust, reinstall, remove it,adjust etc. I am exactly at 8.5 turns on both intake amd exhaust. Before you check them, you have to remove the rocker and pushrod and let the lifters sit for a while and the cup will be fully extended, then meausure.

always faster

iTrader: (6)

Thanks,after the removal of the rocker and pushrods,how much time should i wait before taking my measure ???

RARON455

iTrader: (35)

I usually let them sit for about 1/2 an hour. but thats me,, Some people will say minutes some may say 2 hrs.

always faster

iTrader: (6)

Im doing it right now,with the intake valve nearly closed i took off the rocker and pushrod on the exhaust side(5 mins ago).I will wait 30 mins and then will take some measurement.Then if it give me the same result has the intake,i ll put back the 2.275.If not,i will take off the intake rocker and pushrods,wait 30 mins and take my measurement again to see where is the error.

Damn i never even wait to take my measure...maybe my problem is there...damn it

Ill be back in 35 mins.
Thanks for your time,its really appreciated

always faster

iTrader: (6)

Well well ,i waited 35 mins and you got it right.Im just a tad over 8.5 turns so the 7.275 went back in.

I ve also check from zero lash to 22ft/lbs numbers of turn.I just get a little less than 1 full turn.So if 1/4 turn = .012 im just a little less than .048

Thanks

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

You took a lot of time to measure, are you questioning your original measurements? My car does the same thing (I think I posted in your thread on another forum) and I found the FAST lets a lot of noise through that the GM manifold did not.

always faster

iTrader: (6)

Yep i was questionning my method.I took the measurement right after taking the rocker off so the cup of the lifter was probably a little compress.I let them sit for 35 mins and i didnt get the same result.

always faster

iTrader: (6)

The exhaust one after 35 mins of sitting gave me just a tad more than 8 1/2 turns but less than 8 3/4 turns so the 2.275 should be ok.

I did the same thing with the intake valve today and im a little confused.After the 35 mins sitting free without the rocker and pushrod i took the measurement and it was just a little under 8.5 turns(betwen 8 1/4 and 8 1/2)so shorter thabn 7.225.I then put the checker at 8 turns(7.200),insert it and snug fit the rocker on it wich was loose of course.I then took a filler gauge(just like you tought me on corvette forum).I then check what tickness i could insert between the tips of the rocker and the valve.I was able to slip a .038 one and it was really tight fit since the .039 would not go in..So it was probably passed the zero lash.

So 7.200 + (.038 / 1.72 rocker ratio) = 7.222
Im using 7.275 pushrods so im getting like .053 or slightly more of preload wich is .003 more than the maximum recommended by Morel...If i step down to some 7.250 i would get like .028 wich is .002 less than the minimum recommended by Morel...But again the .038 feeler gauge was really tight there...i can do anything on this car but damn ...finding the difference between the point of zero lash/stop ticking but still a little loose and the point of rocker is just to tight by hand(past zero lash) is becoming a nightmare for me.I mean 8.5 turn on intake valve make the rocker tight as hell with no movement at all.So if i read all those info correctly,since i just cant move the rocker at all with 8.5 ,i would be passed zero lash.

I got all those puhrods lenght ta home.
For safety purpose i would think that i should use the 7.250 pushrods but im not sure...What should i do ????
I do also think that my cam has the same base circle for exhaust and intake(of course) but my valves are probably not installed perfectly at the same height wich is why i would need different pushrods.
Thanks