Cooldude5231

iTrader: (6)

go back to stock pump with a high pressure spring.
itll give you more pressure without pumping the pan dry

SWEET98SS

iTrader: (8)

Would a bearing going out cause these symptons? I did just have my oil pump pressure relief stick wide open before this happened and oil pressure dropped. Thats why it has the tsp ported pump in it now. I talked with TSP today ,they were leaning towards a bearing, but the thing that has meet as it doesnt do it if I hold it at 6600 rpms, only if i floor it up there, maybe its the higher load?

joecar

High load means the crank is going to try to move around... this points to main/thrust bearing.

Add another half quart and see if it still happens.

Ironembraced

carefully crack open your filter and bypass all of the guess work! (try not to use any type of saw)

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Thank you

OldCobraGuy

iTrader: (2)

I would be surprised it's a bearing if you don't have any other symptoms. (noise)

As was suggested, cut open your filter with a pair of sheers. See what you find.

A bearing should be showing more of a pressure loss at idle than rpm like that.

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (6)

Wrong. A high pressure pump isn't going to pump more oil, it's just going to prevent oil from bypassing until a higher pressure is achieved. Likewise, a ported pump isn't going to pump any appreciably larger amount of oil either, so there's no way it's going to pump your pan dry. A high VOLUME pump could do this under certain circumstances (such as when you're already running it a quart or two low ), but even that is only likely to happen during extended periods at high rpm.

As others have said, you're probably facing a thrust bearing issue, or maybe you'll luck out and find out it's just because you're running it too low on oil. Either way, I seriously doubt your oil pump is at fault.

SWEET98SS

iTrader: (8)

Im going to cut the filter apart and post back the results.

SWEET98SS

iTrader: (8)

Cut it apart, it has metal flakes in the pleats. WTF

Ironembraced

did you use a hacksaw?

SWEET98SS

iTrader: (8)

No hacksaw, tin snips and a screw driver. I took it all apart and them pulled the pleats out and opened them up, there were metal flakes inside.

joecar

Are the flakes magnetic or non-magnetic, and what color are they...

pics...?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Check your crank endplay, if you don't know how google it, or pay someone to do it. Thrust bearing failures will not make noise. I know I've had one. Wanna see?

https://ls1tech.com/forums/racers-lo...ew-engine.html

OldCobraGuy

iTrader: (2)

If it's a thrust bearing, why does it have oil pressure at lower rpm's? Clearance is just as bad at low rpm as high. He should have low pressure across the board.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Doesn't work that way. The crank will rest/rotate is a position where pressure is normal. Under load it will push and that's where you see the pressure drop. When load drops, it assumes its normal running position and pressure returns.

s346k

iTrader: (4)

op: it appears you've smoked a bearing. especially if you have flakes in the filter. low/no oil pressure, even for a second, will do a lot of damage.

01ssreda4: i assume you had the telltale sign of oil pressure slightly dropping upon wot, then going back up when you let off - so you checked the endplay? if not, what prompted such an action?

SWEET98SS

iTrader: (8)

Well I called a local machine shop, I asked them for a ballpark figure for basically all new bearings, redo the heads, guides, seals, new cam, new pistons, they said max $3000. They charge $130 to do the crank. I see short blocks for $3500 so if I dont need everything, it should be cheaper than the short block.


What do you guys reccommend? short block, long block or fix the one I have? I am trying to keep it at a minimum but if I have a chance to upgrade heads for a reasonable price, that would be great.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

If the thrust surface of the crank is trashed then the crank is a paper-weight. Welding it and refinishing it may or may not hold and its not worth the risk. Get a good used crank and they should be able to assemble a short block for you for about 1K.

SWEET98SS

iTrader: (8)

So can I check crank end play with the motor in the car?

Does anyone think the oil pump is sucking the pan dry at high rpm? Just seems odd that when I put more oil in the car, it helped a bunch as to how low the pressure dropped and how often it did.

vidal77boxing

iTrader: (15)

Its not your oil pump, its a bearing issue.