ddot

I am thinking about a cam for my car 1998 formula ls1 a4 with lid and catback only.

I am looking for a cam that makes more power throughout the power-band, is easy on the valvetrain and work well with stock converter.

Doesn't have to make huge power looking for 350-380 rwhp, that can be tune to have very good daily driving characteristics. I would have ls1 speed inc do the tuning.

I have read all kinds of cam post but just get more confused about it.To me the hotcam fits but why do so many people love to hate it ,cost seems very good also a plus for me.

I am not sure but I think my next choice would be tr 220/220 how would this be on the valetrain.

I don't know that much about cams only what I read on forums so if anyone has some input on the hotcam or what cam you think would suit my needs please chime in .

THANKS

11 Bravo

iTrader: (3)

Everyone rags on the hotcam, but it's a great bang for the buck. Good street cam, sounds cool, and won't stress your springs. I don't know how it will work with the stock converter. Most everyone gets a bigger stall before going into the engine. A converter is the best mod you can do. I think a car with a bigger stall and a stock engine would smoke you if you had a bigger cam but still running the stock converter.

94form2000z

iTrader: (10)

Yeah I'd get a stall before a cam. You could try the LS6 cam as well. 220/220 is a nice one but hey might as well step up to a 224/224 which is very streetable. Either way valve springs will need to be changed.

jeffstaples

iTrader: (2)

I had a used Hotcam installed yesterday with 918 Blue Stripe springs. I have not had much opportunity to get out and drive it yet, but the before and after dyno pulls impressed me.

The actual HP numbers were 332 stock cam and 388 with the Hotcam. SAE numbers were down about 10 HP from the actual numbers. The 388 reflects tuning which gained about 10 hp over the non-tune state on the dyno. Torque went from 349 to 371 and that peaked at about 4200 rpm with both cams. The Hotcam had more HP and Torque over stock at every increment from 3K and up. The dyno didn't measure below 3K.

My mods, which are essentially the FLP LTs and the FLP ORP, are listed in my sig.

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

A buddy of mine pulls 115.8MPH in the 1/4 with his hotcam, '02 Z28, PaceSetters, air lid, cutout, MN6, that's it. Not bad if you ask me!

Colonel

Even the stock cam doesn't work well with the stock POS converter.

BTW, if 350-360 RWHP would suit you, keep the stock cam and add bolt-ons.

(Bet ya'll thought I was going to rag on the Notcam again?)

ddot

Yes I know springs will need to be changed but once the install is done I don't want to worry about breaking them. Thats why I want a cam that isn't hard on them. Like I said I am open to other suggestions.

I would like a cam before a converter even thought it probably isn't the best decision , but as far as converters I know your all going to disagree but I would get a Midwest 2800 with 1.9 str.Yes I know everyone will say go bigger but that is all I want.

So back to the cam talk best bang for buck????????

THANKS

94form2000z

iTrader: (10)

LOL in that case don't waste your money. Maybe you should drive a car with a converter in it..

On the spring issue. Get some 918's and you can run a cam up to 600 lift. I wouldn't go that high with them but the say they can handle it. Sounds liek teh TR224 is a good cam for you. Big enough your not kicking yourself for wasting your time later, and low enough lift the springs shoudl last a while.

ddot

[QUOTE=94form2000z] You could try the LS6 cam as well. 220/220 is a nice one but hey might as well step up to a 224/224 which is very streetable. Either way valve springs will need to be changed.


Everyone says with the LS6 cam the gains are only above 4000 rpms, I am looking for more low and mid range, actually the entire range, like I said it does have to be gabs of power but I would like to feel the difference anyways.

Isn't the 224/224 pretty hard on the springs??????????

I don't have all kinds of $ for this that is why I am looking for best bang for buck cam. If and when this happens my next and final mod will be the converter along with sfc.

Keep coming the more opinions I get the better,like I said I am still learning

THANKS

ddot

How much cost difference is there between the 918's and 224 verse the hotcam kit and do you think the $$ is worth the difference if any in hp.

Damian

iTrader: (89)

By today's standards the Twatcam is pretty weak. It makes impressive dyno #'s SOMETIMES, but for the most part doesn't run anything out of ordinary compared to a well setup bolt on M6 car. I've seen several Hotcam cars make 380-390 rwhp on the dyno, but only trap 114-115 @ the track. MPH is a reflection of power...

It's a decent "bang for the buck", but you can buy a used TR224 dirt cheap, some 918's, and for 100 bucks more you'll make more power throughout the entire rpm band with much better driveability manners..

JMO

josh

Spinmonster

Duration isnt the spring killer, lift is. You will find many low-lift cams in the comp cams catalog. You can get a long duration cam and get good springs for a great power increase. I don't know why you are hung up on lift like you are.

I would get the converter and re-gear the car first. You will cut off a full second from your 1/4 mile time doing that alone while you sort out your spring breaking issues. Next do headers and then get a 224-230 cam with better springs. Springs break when they are cold and early in their lifespan. If you don't want to break one don't change them. FASTER THINGS BREAK FASTER. Going into the engine that far and putting in such a small cam is silly since spring life isn't going to be affected under .570 lift on a wild ramp rate.

94form2000z

iTrader: (10)

Here ya go.. hell of a deal

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread...hreadid=495030

ddot

thanks for the link, but if I go into the engine I will only put in new parts .

My main goal is a very streetable and reliable 350 to 380 rwhp / mid 12 second car .

z98

Bolt-ons + tires + good driving = goal

01whitez28

What about a 216/220 "ls6 replacement cam". I think it's easy on springs and makes better power than a hotcam if I remember correctly. I'm considering using it when I do a cam because I don't want to have to replace my springs a lot.

30th TA 0219

if that's your goal, why cam it? All an auto needs for that is a T/C and headers. Since you'r goals are rather simple, why no go the bolt on route, you will want them anyway, and then it won't be such a pain in the *** 2 months down the road when you realize you should've put a real cam in

ddot

What about a 216/220 "ls6 replacement cam". I think it's easy on springs and makes better power than a hotcam if I remember correctly. I'm considering using it when I do a cam because I don't want to have to replace my springs a lot.

Does anyone have this cam what do you think of it compared to stock?

ddot

actually I have never been to the track,but maybe this summer I will get a chance and to me 12 second + car is plenty fast for me.

MY end goal is small to medium cam, macs, 2800 stall and chambered exhaust.

I just like to personalize my car it does have to be the fastest thing around.

94form2000z

iTrader: (10)

2800 Stall is a waste of money in my opinion. Vig3200 at least. TCI SS3500 is another good choice. But hey it seems you know what you want already. I'm with tey guy about the bolt-ons and a good stall. That'll get you yoru 12 second car. Leave it all stock internal.