blubyyou

I just bought a 01 shortblock with 38,000 miles on it. I decided to strengthen up the bottom end and use some ARP rod bolts. So after talking to several site sponsors that said it's ok to just replace the stock bolts, I ordered and installed the ARP's. I followed ARP's instructions ...torque to 45 ft. pds. and loosen bolts, torque to 45 ft. pds. for the second pass and loosen again, and for the 3rd and final pass torque them to 45 ft. pds.. I hope I did this correctly. Like I said I just took the stock bolts out and put the new ones in one rod at a time. Is this ok or wil I have a problem ...if I messed something up or am going to let me know and I'll let a speed shop fix it before I put it back together with my new H/C combo. I just have a feeling I messed something up or did something wrong . This is the first time I've replaced rod bolts....I should have just left the stock bolts in and not have to be afraid I messed up.

I'm new to LS1tech ....but I've posted many times at the other LS1 board( I don't know if it's ok for me to say the site's name)

Red Heartbeat

iTrader: (9)

That's on odd method of torqueing the bolts. I have never installed ARPs so I am unfamiliar with their techniques. With the factory bolts you tighten them in two stages to a specific torque then you use a tool that measures degrees of travel as you torque them to a specific amount of rotation. I have never heard of backing them off after reaching a torqued footage amount. I may be wrong but that sounds really odd.

blubyyou

that's what ARP instructions called for....I thought it was very odd myself. I just hope I'm ok with what I did....before I go any farther along.

crainholio

iTrader: (2)

ARP and most other rod bolt mfgs want you to exercise the threads a few times before final torquing, so the 3-pass procedure makes sense. Did they advise you to use any oil or other lube on the threads and/or head surface? I generally use ARP Moly Assembly Lube on both, but haven't done an LS1 yet so I'd recommend another call to ARP to check.

blubyyou

I used the ARP Moly lube that came with them as the instructions read. I hope I did everything ok.

crainholio

iTrader: (2)

Sounds good, as long as your torque wrench was accurate. Plenty of people here have just swapped bolts in place, same as you, with no problems. The ****-retentive way to do this is to pull the rod off the crank, install the new bolts, and mic the bearing to ensure you'll end up with the correct clearance.

blubyyou

I'm starting to feel some better...keep the comments coming...good or bad!!

OWENMUSTANG

iTrader: (2)

Most engines require the rods to be resized after removal. however, i don't have
any info on lsx engines. i would call one or more of our sponsers that rebuild these
for their opinion on this.

Hannibal

It sounds like you did it the same way we did mine. Shouldnt have any problems.

DenzSS

Most builders would say the rods need to be rebuilt before switching bolts. I'd tend by far to agree with them. I have, however, seen LS1s and LS6s last very well after swapping the rod bolts in car.

Correct: Get the rods rebuilt
Will work: Do just what you did. To be honest, I've never seen a problem on a Gen III from doing that.

VSGLS1

iTrader: (8)

Would this be true for the rod bolts included with the Lunati rods, ie., in the 382 stroker kits? It mentions stretching the bolts to a certain spec. Could the ARP method be substituted for a stretch gauge? I don't know anyone around where I live with a stretch gauge.

DenzSS

You should use a stretch guage, but if that isn't available I would call Lunati and get their specific recommendations. You can also call ARP and do the same if you have the specific bolt type. Since ARP makes a number of different bolts, you need to use the torque specs provided by ARP for the bolts you have.

blubyyou

I'm getting the feeling I did it the getto way...but it will work. I just don't want to put this motor back together only to spin a rod bearing or hear some awful knocking sound as a result of my neglect to do thing the correct way. I plan to beat on this motor a little and it will most likely be bottle fed for some extra HP when needed....just a 100 or 125 shot. Keep the opinions coming.....it's greatly apreciated!!!!

DenzSS

You should be fine. The stock bolts are a real weakness, so you're definitely going down the right road.

Just keep your max rpm to 6500 or so and make sure you stay on the rich side of things and you should do well.

blubyyou

I plan to go to 6800 with my new TSP cam....it's a rather large stick and I'm debating on what heads to buy right now. I'm a little worried about the Patriot LS6 heads...so I'm kind of thinking about Absalute Speed's stage II's for now.

DenzSS

6800 should be pretty safe. There is more valve float and/or bounce in a lot of the head/cam engines that most folks know or admit. I've rarely seen LS1/LS6 engines that make much in the way of power above 6500. Some do, but a lot of valvetrains are pretty unstable by that time.

Don't run 6800 just because. Run it because you need to or have something significant to gain.

Just an opinion of course.

blubyyou

well I don't want to go any higher than I have to with RPM's...I plan to set it just a little higher than my shift points. There's no sense in beating on the motor for no significant gain in power as you stated. Keep the advice coming....I'm feeling confident enough now I believe to put my shortblock together tomorrow and shove that TSP cam in. Can't wait to pick out a good set of heads and get it all together and running!

DenzSS

Another bit of advice. Regardless of what most folks around here say, use a degree wheel when you install the cam. It is the only way to be sure.

Check your install height on the springs and shim as necessary. Don't take anything for granted. Basic stuff, but I'm picky.

blubyyou

so everyone agrees I should be ok with what I've done??

DenzSS

Well, you know my opinion.

You didn't do it the "right" way, but you should be fine.