*NEW!* Short Travel Linkbar Lifter (aka Lifter Porn)
11-18-2014, 11:59 AM
#24
Hi,
Sorry to resurrect a old thread but has anyone used the Johnson Mac Daddy lifter with the axle/bearing oiling needle bearing or bushing? Hard to find info on them. If so what do you think about them?
Thanks
Sorry to resurrect a old thread but has anyone used the Johnson Mac Daddy lifter with the axle/bearing oiling needle bearing or bushing? Hard to find info on them. If so what do you think about them?
Thanks
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11-19-2014, 12:39 PM
#25
*edit, ha I see I used mac daddy originally. Anyway, as I said above. A call to Mamo motorsports will let you know prices and any changes.
Last edited by therabidweasel; 11-19-2014 at 12:45 PM.
11-19-2014, 01:59 PM
#26
Thanks!
I have been in touch with Tony Mamo and will be buying a set soon. Just wanted to hear from people using them and how they like them. What preload do you set them at?
Christian
I have been in touch with Tony Mamo and will be buying a set soon. Just wanted to hear from people using them and how they like them. What preload do you set them at?
Christian
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Don't forget to check out our products at www.saccitycorvette.com
If you like our products, tell others! If not, tell us!
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11-20-2014, 02:46 AM
#27
I went back and checked and to get the same preload at each valve I had to account for 40thou total slop across the cam/motor/blahblah. I covered this with 6 bins totaling 22 total pushrods. My installed preload varies from 0.031 to 0.035. I made many independent measurements of everything and octuple checked everything.
BTW, I like 2 checkers if you are using YTs, but pulling off one rocker at a time and using a single checker could be better.
BTW, I like 2 checkers if you are using YTs, but pulling off one rocker at a time and using a single checker could be better.
11-20-2014, 07:00 AM
#28
Not to put words in his mouth if things have changed, but at the time I was doing mine Randy recommended .025-.030" for preload. If you're in the .025-.035" range though you're probably fine. I would not go any more than that though.
Similar to Steve above I ended up with 8 different pushrod lengths to achieve uniform preload across all 16 valves. Measured 5x and hoped the vendor would hit the mark on their tolerances.
Btw what rockers are you running? I will say the nice thing about the Yellas is that you can order your pushrods on the long side of the preload range and shim up the rocker pedestals slightly to be exactly where you want them (anything under .010" generally doesn't have a big effect on the centering of your wipe pattern). The ones cut shorter than what you asked for should then be close enough to fall dead nuts where you wanted them without shim. The extra adjustability there helps give you back more control in this process where you are kind of stuck with what pushrods they ship you. When you're trying to hit a .005" window across the engine, things like this matter.
Oh and also - make sure you measure with the head gaskets you're going to be using in place.
my .02
Similar to Steve above I ended up with 8 different pushrod lengths to achieve uniform preload across all 16 valves. Measured 5x and hoped the vendor would hit the mark on their tolerances.
Btw what rockers are you running? I will say the nice thing about the Yellas is that you can order your pushrods on the long side of the preload range and shim up the rocker pedestals slightly to be exactly where you want them (anything under .010" generally doesn't have a big effect on the centering of your wipe pattern). The ones cut shorter than what you asked for should then be close enough to fall dead nuts where you wanted them without shim. The extra adjustability there helps give you back more control in this process where you are kind of stuck with what pushrods they ship you. When you're trying to hit a .005" window across the engine, things like this matter.
Oh and also - make sure you measure with the head gaskets you're going to be using in place.
my .02
11-20-2014, 02:01 PM
#29
Not to put words in his mouth if things have changed, but at the time I was doing mine Randy recommended .025-.030" for preload. If you're in the .025-.035" range though you're probably fine. I would not go any more than that though.
Similar to Steve above I ended up with 8 different pushrod lengths to achieve uniform preload across all 16 valves. Measured 5x and hoped the vendor would hit the mark on their tolerances.
Similar to Steve above I ended up with 8 different pushrod lengths to achieve uniform preload across all 16 valves. Measured 5x and hoped the vendor would hit the mark on their tolerances.
You need to take into account the growth of an aluminum block.....if your cold preload was .035 - .040 it would be close to .030 when hot which is arguably perfect.....smack in the middle of the total travel offered.
I think Randy's numbers is assuming running/operating temps. Bottom line.....I have set up dozens of these combinations usually adding .038 to my zero lash figures which I double and triple check and usually have numerous length pushrods to achieve they are all uniform in preload amount.
Works great.....all my "Mamofied" combinations usually exhibit a power curve that look like it might have been a solid roller motor with a smooth arc that carries well into the low 7000's.
Using my figures cold also give the end user a little more latitude in missing the exact figures.....if we target a hot operating preload smack in the middle of the travel you could miss the target by .020 on either side (long or short) and still have the engine run OK.
Just makes sense....
-Tony
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Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
www.mamomotorsports.com
Tony@MamoMotorsports.com
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
11-20-2014, 02:36 PM
#30
Chuck,
You need to take into account the growth of an aluminum block.....if your cold preload was .035 - .040 it would be close to .030 when hot which is arguably perfect.....smack in the middle of the total travel offered.
I think Randy's numbers is assuming running/operating temps. Bottom line.....I have set up dozens of these combinations usually adding .038 to my zero lash figures which I double and triple check and usually have numerous length pushrods to achieve they are all uniform in preload amount.
Works great.....all my "Mamofied" combinations usually exhibit a power curve that look like it might have been a solid roller motor with a smooth arc that carries well into the low 7000's.
Using my figures cold also give the end user a little more latitude in missing the exact figures.....if we target a hot operating preload smack in the middle of the travel you could miss the target by .020 on either side (long or short) and still have the engine run OK.
Just makes sense....
-Tony
You need to take into account the growth of an aluminum block.....if your cold preload was .035 - .040 it would be close to .030 when hot which is arguably perfect.....smack in the middle of the total travel offered.
I think Randy's numbers is assuming running/operating temps. Bottom line.....I have set up dozens of these combinations usually adding .038 to my zero lash figures which I double and triple check and usually have numerous length pushrods to achieve they are all uniform in preload amount.
Works great.....all my "Mamofied" combinations usually exhibit a power curve that look like it might have been a solid roller motor with a smooth arc that carries well into the low 7000's.
Using my figures cold also give the end user a little more latitude in missing the exact figures.....if we target a hot operating preload smack in the middle of the travel you could miss the target by .020 on either side (long or short) and still have the engine run OK.
Just makes sense....
-Tony
-Chuck
11-20-2014, 02:51 PM
#31
Morel will do it if you request them (let me know I will get you a set), my understanding is they do not want to do it for oiling reasons. On a solid roller, no problem but hydro if a different animal.
11-21-2014, 12:56 AM
#33
Thanks for the heads up Tony. I'll adjust my rocker shims accordingly - only need to reduce them by ~ .010" or so. When I was initially setting up my heights, amounts like that didn't really seem to appreciably affect the wipe pattern. Has that been your experience? I'd like to try avoiding the need to buy another set of pushrods if I can.
-Chuck
-Chuck
Honestly your current preload if accurate (and knowing you its accurate) should still run just fine....you have enough of a window for it to work.
Try running what you have....or maybe only increase it .005 so its literally undetectable.
-Tony
__________________
www.mamomotorsports.com
Tony@MamoMotorsports.com
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
www.mamomotorsports.com
Tony@MamoMotorsports.com
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
11-21-2014, 09:52 AM
#34
I've always wanted to say this: What Tony Mamo said. Haha.
To elaborate if you just take the differential thermal expansion between straight aluminum and carbon steel (better if you have the correct alloys) and a temperature rise of the order of 100F (they run at oil temperature one would assume) the rod gets about 7thou shorter.
Like Tony says the biggest thing is to be accurate, and Chuck is the kind of guy to submerge the whole dam thing and his instruments in water so he doesn't have to worry about the temperature differentials eating up several millionths of tolerance (jeebus you are ****! even for an engineer lol). Anyway, i did the two pushrod thing to improve accuracy, but removing one rocker at a time should be better i think. We are talking about a stack of multiple things and a tolerance if a few thou, so you do need to be pretty **** in order to be certain.
And FWIW, Morels did not make the cut in the president's limo and are not what was used in its !!!! hp engine.
To elaborate if you just take the differential thermal expansion between straight aluminum and carbon steel (better if you have the correct alloys) and a temperature rise of the order of 100F (they run at oil temperature one would assume) the rod gets about 7thou shorter.
Like Tony says the biggest thing is to be accurate, and Chuck is the kind of guy to submerge the whole dam thing and his instruments in water so he doesn't have to worry about the temperature differentials eating up several millionths of tolerance (jeebus you are ****! even for an engineer lol). Anyway, i did the two pushrod thing to improve accuracy, but removing one rocker at a time should be better i think. We are talking about a stack of multiple things and a tolerance if a few thou, so you do need to be pretty **** in order to be certain.
And FWIW, Morels did not make the cut in the president's limo and are not what was used in its !!!! hp engine.
11-21-2014, 09:59 AM
#35
That's what Tony said.
I actually bought scuba gear for that exact purpose. I'll assemble my next motor blindfolded with a hammer if it makes you feel better 
lol
To elaborate if you just take the differential thermal expansion between straight aluminum and carbon steel (better if you have the correct alloys) and a temperature rise of the order of 100F (they run at oil temperature one would assume) the rod gets about 7thou shorter.
Like Tony says the biggest thing is to be accurate, and Chuck is the kind of guy to submerge the whole dam thing and his instruments in water so he doesn't have to worry about the temperature differentials eating up several millionths of tolerance (jeebus you are ****! even for an engineer lol). Anyway, i did the two pushrod thing to improve accuracy, but removing one rocker at a time should be better i think. We are talking about a stack of multiple things and a tolerance if a few thou, so you do need to be pretty **** in order to be certain.
Like Tony says the biggest thing is to be accurate, and Chuck is the kind of guy to submerge the whole dam thing and his instruments in water so he doesn't have to worry about the temperature differentials eating up several millionths of tolerance (jeebus you are ****! even for an engineer lol). Anyway, i did the two pushrod thing to improve accuracy, but removing one rocker at a time should be better i think. We are talking about a stack of multiple things and a tolerance if a few thou, so you do need to be pretty **** in order to be certain.
lol 