ldyzluvdis06

iTrader: (24)

i just finished my build on my 98 trans am. has 132K on the clock.

i installed:
PRC 2.5 5.3L heads 62cc (assembled heads with 650 springs)
tsp tv2 cam
ls7 lifters
4.5 PR's
Katech rod bolts (installed one at a time)
melling pump with factory spring installed
ls2 chain

then headers, intake, stall, trans, ect.

ive had it up and running for a couple of weeks now with no issues. i did a few WOT pulls on the interstate tonight. 40-100. wideband was reading 12.8's, oil pressure was around 40, aeroforce showed no codes. then when i let out, i heard a knocking. i limped it back home and took a video then pulled the oil plug. the magnetic plug was covered in metal shavings, and the oil had more metallic in it then my paint.

any help on what the issue is and what it's going to take to get the car on the road again? this is my DD. :ugh:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LDW4ppoEJsc

prokilllsx

Sorry to hear that man. Whatever you do, don't start it again. It's time to tear her down. The answers to all of your questions should be apparent only then. Good luck.

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

Sounds like the katech bolts might not be all everyone says they are...

Either way, it could be a number of things. Did you change the oil after the head swap?

seawolf18

iTrader: (18)

Oh man, sounds like a box of hammers floating around in there. Sounds like a really bad rod knock. You defiantly need to take the engine out, and do a tear down. Hopefully its just a rod bearing, and didn't mess the bores up.

zpi28

iTrader: (1)

Sounds nasty, got to tear it down.

ldyzluvdis06

iTrader: (24)

yeah. i changed the oil after about 20 min of it running, then changed it again like 100 miles later.

im thinking i am just going to toss a 6.0 in it. seems to be an easy swap and since it is a DD i dont have a ton of time for it to be down and then trying to diagnose it, then order parts, then fix it.

so if anyone has any helpful links/tips to swapping in a 6.0 that would be awesome!!!

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

You should have changed the oil before starting it. Sounds like you pushed probably half a gallon of coolant thru all your bearings and wiped them out.

Z28Drifter348

This is why I say "**** that" to the changing rod bolts one at a time without pulling a few caps and inspecting bearings/replacing them. With 132k on the clock it's likely that the bearings were worn into a greater tolerance. But it's possible they may be fine. That's why it's worth it to check. I tore down a 02 lq4 6.0 that was clean inside for 96,000 miles. Rod bearings were shot! Ill bet the Motor wouldn't have lasted a few dyno pulls. Maybe running **** oil , overheating, late oil changes, slow oil pump caused it. Either way it's irrelevant. Dropping a few caps and checking is a must when the bearings are in question.

Snkebait95

iTrader: (16)

Well its a direct swap... All you need to do is drill and tap a hole for the alternator bracket, even then people say you dont need to do that, but you know what happens when you listen to what ppl say on here

ldyzluvdis06

iTrader: (24)

so if i pick up a 6.0 with 90K on the clock and swap over my cam/heads then it should run nice? i will replace the lifters, oil pump, gaskets, just to be on the safe side. my heads are milled 62cc. what head gasket should i run? im looking at buying 4.25 pushrods instead of the 4.5's

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

Everything should swap to the 6.0 I'd remeasure the pushrods just to be sure though. Make sure to check the cam to make sure its still ok and also I would toss the lifters and get new ones. If the oil had a lot of metal in it then it may have gotten into the lifters and for 100 bucks id feel better replacing them.

Also since the 6.0 will be out i'd recommend doing cam bearings and if you want to reinstall the katechs id get the rod bores checked. If you can, find an lq9 for the higher comp pistons over the lq4

Snkebait95

iTrader: (16)

Yeah, the lq4s have dished pistons and lq9s have flat tops though so factor that in. Also about 100 extra pounds, but you do have like 18 more ci. Run a 6.0l gasket. I always go with gm mls. Always use a pushrod length tool if youre unsure.

ldyzluvdis06

iTrader: (24)

i am def. going to be replacing the lifters just to be safe. i wasn't planning on installing the katechs, id rather not bother with it and risk another failure. what all is involved in changing the cam bearings? im hoping for a really fast turn around on this project to get the car back on the road.

ldyzluvdis06

iTrader: (24)

my list of parts to buy are:

lq4
push rods
melling oil pump
ls7 lifters
basic cam install gasket set
gm mls head gaskets
oil pan gasket...i think...i think i read somewhere i need to use my ls1 oil pan...???
fluids

does this list sound correct? anything else that would be needed?

Snkebait95

iTrader: (16)

Yeah you need to swap all the car accesories over to the lq4. Ie oil pan, waterpump, harmonic dampener, alternator bracket...

The local ls shop i go to to get some things done reccomends using stock push rods instead of hardened because if something happens, the push rod will bend. A hardened one could ruin a lifter and cam. But i bought hardened ones because the stockers i had had some bad wear on them

mchicia1

iTrader: (5)

Spun bearing from rod bolt swap.

On the new motor either throw it in as is, or bring it to a good machine shop to get re ringed and bearing. They can then have the rod bolts installed properly there.

just my $.02

s346k

iTrader: (4)

what rpm were you making pulls to? did the car have fresh oil in it before the initial start after the heads etc?

i've seen a lot of motors go through the katech rod bolt swap and none of them did that.

kunkelz28

iTrader: (2)

just out of curiousity what was the final verdict?

ldyzluvdis06

iTrader: (24)

spun bearing. i then pulled the 5.7 and installed a 6.0

WS6ICK2k

Not touching the rod bolts on my car, a cam that peaks early will do just fine. Looks like you found the problem no doubt. When and if I want a engine that spins to the moon, I will click the ARP rod bolt option when I order my new short block.