Need some advice on valve springs...and main studs... and more 6.0 build
05-09-2013, 07:43 PM
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Need some advice on valve springs...and main studs... and more 6.0 build I'm building a 6.0 for my 79 z28 and I'm running into some snags...
-block is a brand new 2001 block.
-The Crank is a stock 6.0 crank from an 01 silverado 200k miles
-heads are the 317 heads off the same 01 silverado
-pistons are stock take outs from an lq4 (new)
-lunati 60516 camshaft -- 219/223 duration, 625/625 lift, 112lsa
-cloyes double roller timing chain
-gmperformance lifters
-gm performance main bearings
-gmperformance upgraded z06 clutch
-edelbrock 7118 carb'd intake kit
I think that's about all I have at this point
When I was talking to the guy who balanced my crank and pistons he recommended that I use ARP main studs. But then he also said to use studs instead of bolts you have to machine the block to use studs?? I've never heard of that before. I'm looking for some imput if you guys did this or if you stuck with stock bolts or what. I was thinking maybe that's something you do to aluminum blocks? but mine is steel
I also need some imput if You think I should the stock 317 heads or get new ones. If new ones what is the good affordable head. If I use the 317's I would do a home port job and then take them in for a valve job, new valves, new valve spring kit and full roller rockers.
I still have a lot to do. any tips and pointers towards assembly/build and parts list is appreciated. I'm not trying to build a full out race machine just a decent street occasional strip motor. hoping to hit around 500 HP
the guy at the shop recommended i use comp cams 26918CS-KIT which is rated at .625 maximum lift. which seems low for a .625 cam.
Lunati makes a kit too but he said because it was a low price that it's a garbage kit.
I think this is about all the questions at this point in time. Look forward to hearing what you have to say!
Thanks, Stuart
-block is a brand new 2001 block.
-The Crank is a stock 6.0 crank from an 01 silverado 200k miles
-heads are the 317 heads off the same 01 silverado
-pistons are stock take outs from an lq4 (new)
-lunati 60516 camshaft -- 219/223 duration, 625/625 lift, 112lsa
-cloyes double roller timing chain
-gmperformance lifters
-gm performance main bearings
-gmperformance upgraded z06 clutch
-edelbrock 7118 carb'd intake kit
I think that's about all I have at this point
When I was talking to the guy who balanced my crank and pistons he recommended that I use ARP main studs. But then he also said to use studs instead of bolts you have to machine the block to use studs?? I've never heard of that before. I'm looking for some imput if you guys did this or if you stuck with stock bolts or what. I was thinking maybe that's something you do to aluminum blocks? but mine is steel
I also need some imput if You think I should the stock 317 heads or get new ones. If new ones what is the good affordable head. If I use the 317's I would do a home port job and then take them in for a valve job, new valves, new valve spring kit and full roller rockers.
I still have a lot to do. any tips and pointers towards assembly/build and parts list is appreciated. I'm not trying to build a full out race machine just a decent street occasional strip motor. hoping to hit around 500 HP
the guy at the shop recommended i use comp cams 26918CS-KIT which is rated at .625 maximum lift. which seems low for a .625 cam.
Lunati makes a kit too but he said because it was a low price that it's a garbage kit.
I think this is about all the questions at this point in time. Look forward to hearing what you have to say!
Thanks, Stuart
05-09-2013, 07:51 PM
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I'm not gonna be much help but I wouldn't push the 918's to .625. PAC and PSI both have nice capable beehives if that's what you want. As far as main studs I believe the clamping force is different and that's why you need to have the mains line honed with the studs in place
05-09-2013, 08:58 PM
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I'm not gonna be much help but I wouldn't push the 918's to .625. PAC and PSI both have nice capable beehives if that's what you want. As far as main studs I believe the clamping force is different and that's why you need to have the mains line honed with the studs in place
05-09-2013, 10:20 PM
#4
I'm building a 6.0 for my 79 z28 and I'm running into some snags...
-block is a brand new 2001 block.
-The Crank is a stock 6.0 crank from an 01 silverado 200k miles
-heads are the 317 heads off the same 01 silverado
-pistons are stock take outs from an lq4 (new)
-lunati 60516 camshaft -- 219/223 duration, 625/625 lift, 112lsa
-cloyes double roller timing chain
-gmperformance lifters
-gm performance main bearings
-gmperformance upgraded z06 clutch
-edelbrock 7118 carb'd intake kit
I think that's about all I have at this point
When I was talking to the guy who balanced my crank and pistons he recommended that I use ARP main studs. But then he also said to use studs instead of bolts you have to machine the block to use studs?? I've never heard of that before. I'm looking for some imput if you guys did this or if you stuck with stock bolts or what. I was thinking maybe that's something you do to aluminum blocks? but mine is steel
I also need some imput if You think I should the stock 317 heads or get new ones. If new ones what is the good affordable head. If I use the 317's I would do a home port job and then take them in for a valve job, new valves, new valve spring kit and full roller rockers.
I still have a lot to do. any tips and pointers towards assembly/build and parts list is appreciated. I'm not trying to build a full out race machine just a decent street occasional strip motor. hoping to hit around 500 HP
the guy at the shop recommended i use comp cams 26918CS-KIT which is rated at .625 maximum lift. which seems low for a .625 cam.
Lunati makes a kit too but he said because it was a low price that it's a garbage kit.
I think this is about all the questions at this point in time. Look forward to hearing what you have to say!
Thanks, Stuart
-block is a brand new 2001 block.
-The Crank is a stock 6.0 crank from an 01 silverado 200k miles
-heads are the 317 heads off the same 01 silverado
-pistons are stock take outs from an lq4 (new)
-lunati 60516 camshaft -- 219/223 duration, 625/625 lift, 112lsa
-cloyes double roller timing chain
-gmperformance lifters
-gm performance main bearings
-gmperformance upgraded z06 clutch
-edelbrock 7118 carb'd intake kit
I think that's about all I have at this point
When I was talking to the guy who balanced my crank and pistons he recommended that I use ARP main studs. But then he also said to use studs instead of bolts you have to machine the block to use studs?? I've never heard of that before. I'm looking for some imput if you guys did this or if you stuck with stock bolts or what. I was thinking maybe that's something you do to aluminum blocks? but mine is steel
I also need some imput if You think I should the stock 317 heads or get new ones. If new ones what is the good affordable head. If I use the 317's I would do a home port job and then take them in for a valve job, new valves, new valve spring kit and full roller rockers.
I still have a lot to do. any tips and pointers towards assembly/build and parts list is appreciated. I'm not trying to build a full out race machine just a decent street occasional strip motor. hoping to hit around 500 HP
the guy at the shop recommended i use comp cams 26918CS-KIT which is rated at .625 maximum lift. which seems low for a .625 cam.
Lunati makes a kit too but he said because it was a low price that it's a garbage kit.
I think this is about all the questions at this point in time. Look forward to hearing what you have to say!
Thanks, Stuart
05-09-2013, 10:39 PM
#5
Lunati is top quality stuff. I agree with Bama.
I'm not sure why your machinest would recommend studs. The bolts are fine, even with boost. Studs btw are about $250. And I'd bet the align hone would be even more given the tedious nature of assembling 6 bolts per cap with the studs.
Ron
I'm not sure why your machinest would recommend studs. The bolts are fine, even with boost. Studs btw are about $250. And I'd bet the align hone would be even more given the tedious nature of assembling 6 bolts per cap with the studs.
Ron
05-10-2013, 03:16 PM
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Lunati is top quality stuff. I agree with Bama.
I'm not sure why your machinest would recommend studs. The bolts are fine, even with boost. Studs btw are about $250. And I'd bet the align hone would be even more given the tedious nature of assembling 6 bolts per cap with the studs.
Ron
I'm not sure why your machinest would recommend studs. The bolts are fine, even with boost. Studs btw are about $250. And I'd bet the align hone would be even more given the tedious nature of assembling 6 bolts per cap with the studs.
Ron
I thought the same thing that's why I spent $400 on the Lunati cam. I thought they were one of the top brands.
The reason he said not to buy the Lunati valve spring kit was because they are $252. He said, "you get what you pay for and for that cheap it's probably some Chinese junk."
But he told me, "Comp Cams just bought out Lunati and you will see an increase in quality, because Lately Lunati's quality has been garbage."
I appreciate the imput. does anyone else have any Ideas about the main studs vs main bolts? I'm not trying to be a cheap-***. but if i can avoid wasting 200$ on studs/line hoaning then I will just use bolts.
The guy selling parts said I should use the ARP studs because it makes the motor %50 stronger. but he is a salesman
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05-10-2013, 04:53 PM
#8
Agree with talking with the company you got the cam from. Martin form Tick recommend me using BTR valve springs with my Polluter Stage3 Cam I just got, also I got a package deal getting the springs and cam together. I'm also going to be getting a set of their lifters to go along with my 6 liter build.
05-10-2013, 04:57 PM
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Agree with talking with the company you got the cam from. Martin form Tick recommend me using BTR valve springs with my Polluter Stage3 Cam I just got, also I got a package deal getting the springs and cam together. I'm also going to be getting a set of their lifters to go along with my 6 liter build.
