01cherryreds10

iTrader: (9)

Two days ago an old friend contacted me asking if I wanted to buy a 99' LS1 that was rebuilt and after it was put together it wouldn't turn. Said he pulled the rod caps off and it spun a little bit.

For the price I figured if worse comes to worse I can part it out and keep the block as a coffee table

It ended up being a 98' LS1, still bought it.

Pulled the engine apart, very clean inside new rod and crank bearings, however found something quite interesting.

The 2-3-4 main caps were backwards, and the #4 cap had an arrow pointing towards the front of the engine. Maybe whoever took it apart pointed the arrow towards the back and aligned the 2-3-4 caps according to that.

So I pulled the caps, pulled the crank, put some GM EOS on the bearing surfaces and tightened the main caps back down and bam the crank spins.


So long story short, should I replace the bearings and start all over or can I get away with plasti-gauging everything according to GM specs and run it that way?

I figure I can sell off the heads, oil pan, intake, injectors, fuel rail, valve covers, etc. and maybe come up even with a ready to roll shortblock

Any thoughts?

KCS

iTrader: (20)

If the bearings don't have any visible damage, I'd check clearances and roll with it. Not a big fan of Plastigauge, but it is better than nothing.

rickybobbyss

recheck all the rods and mains,sounds like a beginers backwards build.if u think a bearing is bad post up a pic of one and everyone here will help

2000PewterT/A

I would use plastigauge to get a "ballpark" on what the clearances are. I normally never suggest using it but in this case it won't hurt. Your using it more of a investigative tool, if you find a large gap or a very tight gap you can investigate more. Check the bearing numbers make sure they are correct for the engine.

01cherryreds10

iTrader: (9)

Thanks guys that's what I was leaning towards. I have a good feeling I can make the money that I paid for this by selling the valve train and top end of the engine. The crank has quite a bit of wear on one of the rod journals so I may save the block and build a 383 out of it when the money rolls in

They are GM bearings I forget the number however. All the bearings except the cam bearings look brand new. The cam bearings are showing all copper so I may have a set put in

RezinTexas

don't worry about that, its normal. They are line-honed that way from the factory. only replace them if they are scratched or otherwise damaged.