camaroboricua

iTrader: (23)

I have a 5.3 in my 96 T/A with a small cam and I think it idles too high for the size cam so I wanted to see where you guys thought it should be. The cam is 224/230 .538/.538 114+4 and the car idles at 1k warmed up. I think it should be closer to 750-800. What do you guys think?
I know its a terrible idea but I have a stock torque converter cause my trans died and I didn't have enough funds to put in an aftermarket tc after the rebuild. Being that it idles so high its causing the car to try n roll at lights and it shifts into drive or reverse really hard. So I figure if I can get the idle close to stock maybe it will buy me some time till I can buy a nice TC

JDMC5

iTrader: (3)

yea, 700-800 sounds about right.

00'TwistedLS1

yeah as said above thats way high mine has .610 lift with 23x duration and mine is only set at 800 best route to go is to contact the company that makes it and ask what they would recommend

camaroboricua

iTrader: (23)

ok thanks. the cam is a comp cams that was custom ordered a while back. Im going to talk to my buddy and see what we can do to get it lowered a bit

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

Honestly the computer is only responding to the massive change(cam); so
in all actuality the true correct thing to do is to put a stall converter in it.
Preferably a 3600 but even a 2800-3000 would make a world of difference !!

Remnant-of-VII

You should be fine. Cold start on mine was about 900 and would drop to 700 as it warmed up. It's all in the way it was tuned.

flattusmaximus78

iTrader: (1)

My 231/239 idles at 750 with a tight 3000 stall and it idles and drives awesome. I had a busted vac line and didn't know once and it idled at 850 and felt like dick downshifting. Good luck!

camaroboricua

iTrader: (23)

That's exactly what im thinking of going with. A 3k stall, I think, would be just right.
I had a 3600 before and it was too much for my liking. I don't know why the heck the tuner set it so high. Its really annoying....

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I hope this post is a joke. Hey, maybe the computer was having a bad day?

JDMC5

iTrader: (3)

lol, right?

Yes, a stall is a good idea...but it has nothing to do with how high the idle is. Also, unless you have one huge vacuum leak it should idle at the set number. A high idle with a cam that size is usually the result of an inexperienced tuner. I.E. setting the idle high can bandaid stalling issues, etc..

camaroboricua

iTrader: (23)

I don't think theres a vacuum leak but I can always check again. I should be able to hear it if its pretty big right?
I agree with you JDM, I think he set it so high because all he did was a basic street tune.

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

Thanks again Steve for not really contributing to the thread but rather trying
to devalue my posts. Something you've done often over the years.
So let's put a cam with 30+ degrees more of duration in a 325 inch airpump
and the computer (with all of it's sensory input) tries to add fuel to the 17%
addition of air being fed to it. The OP never mentioned about what the tuner
did or set it at in the initial post, but later called it a base tune.
Now we both know that NO tune would **** the plugs up in a hurry....so I
guess I'm assuming now that a base tune is to throw a few degrees of timing
and maybe clean up the fuel trims a bit. Does this not explain why it idles a
few hundred rpms more than stock and most likely prevents it from dying at
a stoplight in gear with the air on ?????
Obviously the OP needs a full on street or chassis dyno tune, however if he
only has 5 or 600 bucks of expendable income then the single biggest im-
provement to his entire combination would be a quality stall converter. NO ??

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

Our t/a reads 1050 on the gauge, but is idling at 800 rpms. It's probable that your gauge is off, unless you've checked idle via a scan tool. They arent very accurate

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I don't devalue your posts, YOU devalue your post. You can add a full 30 degrees of duration and the computer is capable of running the motor like stock. PERIOD. That's presuming all things are functioning as intended. I've done this a million times. Some cars can be picky about wanting to idle at first, but drive-ability is perfect.

flattusmaximus78

iTrader: (1)

You wont always hear a vacuum leak. I put a catch can on my 02 z28 and wanted to use the pcv valve still. I had to put a 90* brass fitting on the end of the pcv so I could run a vac line away from the motor to the catch can and it completely ripped in half. No suction noise. Car idled a little funky then I tried flooring it in first and it was rich as hell and the shifts were off and smacking the limiter. A trip to the parts store for vac line and she was good.

JDMC5

iTrader: (3)

if you pull the file and email it to me I can tell you exactly what's going on.

camaroboricua

iTrader: (23)

JDM, Id have to get the file using hp tuners right? because my friend has offered to take a look at it before I buy the credits so he can mess with it. I don't really want to take it back to the guy who tuned it. That would probably be more hassle than its worth.