IRNMADN

I'm sure I will when I retire, but until then....
My way around it is to continue to build my hotrod. No smog requirement on my 46' so I can do anything I want to it. But the Vette has to follow at least a few of the rules. No big deal. I'm sure it will still be fun. Just need to make a call on either the AI combo or Mr. Mamo combo.

IRNMADN

Wanted to at least show what I went with and how they turned out. I cleaned up the casting crap on the heads before shipping them to Advanced Induction. Hopefully to reduce cut knuckles when doing plug changes. Heads arrived there Jan 24. I told him no rush. I post the photos when I get them back.
Here's the heads before photos. Top cleaned up/bottom showing the casting I removed

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Not sure how I missed this before. But the fact that you have to allow for variation in the cam specs is something that has always bothered me. I mean, we are talking about a precision machined component that needs precise timing to create the power we want. And one reason why I suggest not getting a true custom Comp Cam unless you are willing to degree in the camshaft. They can be off upto 4 degrees. Shelf Comp Cams made in batches seem to be fine.

I'd go EPS/Cam Motion or Bullet for custom cams as they use billet cores and generally are less than 1 degree off. Either way, degree the cam to make sure the crank, cam, and timing set are all on the same page.

IRNMADN

Advanced Induction does it all in house with any cam you buy from them.

http://advancedinduction.com/LSX/AiLSxBilletCams.php

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

There you go, then.

mchicia1

iTrader: (5)

AI sends you cams within +-1 degree. What you order is pretty much what you get. And you should be degreeing all installs anyway.

The cam cards they send are POST cam doctor. My last cam was 230.4/239.1

IRNMADN

So I asked about the cam again telling him I'm still a bit uneasy whether it will pass or not. He replied saying the 224/236 ~ 115 is about as big as I can go and still squeak by smog. Then said he would be happy to step it down to a 219/231~115lsa to be safe. To just run less advance.
Any thoughts on that cam? I want to most out of my setup but obviously want to pass emissions. My tuner did say the first one will pass if my cats are good so.....

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

IMO, with the better flowing heads and even exhaust manifolds(compared to a F-body) you really don't need a 12*split of the 219/231 115lsa. So,.. that means you can run like a 221-222 on the intake side and a 226-228 on the exhaust side IF you stick with a 115lsa. Now if you're willing to go with a 116lsa a 223*-224* on the intake side and no more than a 230* on the exhaust side. I'd also run more advance on this cam with the 116lsa, I'd run a 112 ICL (+4 advance) since that will still put you at a 44IVC(w/224*), which is higher than would go on a street car, a 40-42IVC would be more enjoyable on the street with the wider 115-116 LSA's.

mchicia1

iTrader: (5)

Agree 100%. Lessen the split and you will have a much happier power band. That split is too wide for cathedral heads with headers on a stock displacement N/A car.

Just stick with a proven smog cam if it's that important to pass. I know Tick is doing smog cams now.

Otherwise, I'd roll the dice with a 220-224 on a 114 or there abouts.

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

This cam here seems to cover all the criteria that you listed....
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...1-ls6-engines/

IRNMADN

I want it to sound like a cammed car. That cam indicates it retains a smooth idle.
Wouldn't Phil know what cams work with his AI heads?

metlic53

iTrader: (1)

I sent AI some LS6 243s and had him do the 226 cc CNC port job on them and install the BTR springs and used his camshaft....it measured .229/.239 114 .624/.621. Stock short block 02 LS1 with catted y-pipe ,1 3/4 Hooker Headers stalled auto,stock LS6 intake,,stock factory TB==== It made 396 at the tires unlocked in Hot conditions. Locked it probably would have made 410-415 rwhp. Runs very good and cam sounds tiny compared to alot of them running around.

Baconz28

I say a nice custom btr cam.

mchicia1

iTrader: (5)

You need to pick one.

Muscle car lope = overlap = won't pass smog.

You can fake the muscle car lope a bit in hptuners by lowering timing at idle, but it won't sound as good as a true cam with overlap.

I used AI heads too and all the cams they recommended were traditional 4-6 degree splits, that's why I find it odd they recommended such a wide split. Maybe they changed their philosophy because on their site all their recommended cams are 8+ degree split. IDK.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Wide splits make a ton of power with cathedral port heads. The I/E ratio doesn't really change much with ported GM castings. You still have fairly weak exhaust compared to intake flow with ported GM castings. It's not as bad as LS3, but it doesn't really improve.

Which is why a 10 or 12 degree split will make more power and carry it higher in the powerband vs a 2-4 degree split. I like an 8-degree split most times on ported GM castings if you're exhaust is really free flowing. That keeps overlap in check as well.

mchicia1

iTrader: (5)

Hey, they know better than I do.

219/231 115+3

IVO: -2.5
IVC: 41.5
EVO: 53.5
EVC: -2.5

Overlap: -5

It doesn't look like such a bad profile when you write the valve events down, but Isn't that EVO a little bit early for a stock cube car? It'll peak at like 6100 rpms, so I assume he's going to shift at 6500. Is it necessary to have the EVO that early in this case? A later EVO should pump his mid range torque up which may actually make the car faster despite losing a teeny bit up top. Probably splitting hairs though.

Anyway, the -5 overlap cam should pass and it will have a bit of a lope to it.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

It has a 219 intake. It's not going to peak high no matter what he does. The 41.5 IVC is early. Stock is 38. Most shoot for 44-46 with a FAST to peak around 6400.

The EVO defines how it carries. Here is my profile for comparison:

IVO: 9
IVC: 45
EVO: 55
EVC: 7

Overlap: 16

IRNMADN

Just ran both cams by my tuner. I'll see what he says when he replies to the text.
Sure sucks having to worry about emissions testing! But it is my reality. Hopefully I will find a tech that will not notice the headers, wink, wink. With that said, it will need to pass the sniffer. Maybe with the stock exhaust if I have to go to a Test Only Station.
Still want it to have some type of lope in the idle. Want it to sound the part. Obviously want to have a good powerband and not have to rev it to 5K before having any power. In stock form, I'm lucky to ever rev it that high!

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

I can always do a custom grind as well.

IRNMADN

Problem is, I've already paid in full. I paid for the heads/cam package plus the rest of the valve train parts, ported oil pump, timing chain.....
It's more just a matter of letting Phil know what cam I want to go with.
I'm starting to lean towards the 224/236~115. I've had several members on a couple forums say it should pass emissions with a proper tune. Basically what Phil and my tuner both said. Sounds like the biggest cam I can get away with.
Any opinions on what I can expect from a cam with this grind and ported 243 heads?
I've tried google searches and found nothing. Is this an odd grind or something?