As long as we're asking, what does it take for 10's with...
 

What would it take to get an M6 f-body into the 10's with a 3500 raceweight at about 799ft above sea level, naturally aspirated?

Specifically, what kind of mods, rather than a specific hp number. Because a hp number doesn't mean much if you don't know the whole curve.

Would this be doable with all the boltons and a good H/C combo, or would it almost have to need more cubes?

bolt ons and an HC should get you there or at least real close.

If you just miss the 10s, just throw a little juice and your set. Good luck! Oh yeah a good driver is highly recommended

I would say a decent heads/cam package a good driver and some sticky tires should get you there.

TSP231 cam
STAGE 2 LS6 heads
LS6 intake
GOOD tunning!!!
SPEC 3 clutch
12 BOLT W/ 4:10
and maybe a 75-100 shot!

and a slick shifter...

BTW automatics are more fun :devil:

a bottle of nawwwzzzzzzzzz no better make that two of them... the big ones :jest:

I would say, you can hit it with a H/C combo but your suspention needs to be up to par as well. My list of performance mods would include:

1) LS6 Heads of your choice (TEA or Absolute would be my rec.)

2) Cam equal to or larger than a 228 with 580lift or more. Your LSA will depend on your decision to spray or not to spray.

3) Complete your bolt-on's (yes, even including the SSRA)

4) 4.10 gears

3) Spec III clutch, shifter with 2nd gear lockout

4) ET streets and equivalent or better (i.e. slicks)

Optional...Small shot of the gas...only if needed


With these mods you should be in the 10's with decent driving, if not spend $500 to spray it, or $5000 to rebuild it. ;)

The 10bolt may live for one 10 sec pass before it goes, so depending on your finances, you can include a 12 bolt or 9" rear to that list. Or you can just wait for detonation. :cool:


I myself will be looking for 10's in auto with bolt on's, cam only, with a 150 wet shot. But hey, Im poor so I gotta do what I gotta do. :jest:

Good luck to you. :cheers:

Alright since noone else has seemed to answer this question to the fullest I will try.
You will need a big cam in the 230+ duration lift. You will need a set of AS or TEA stage 2.5 heads that flow well with the cam. You will need every bolt on that makes power, and probally even a 90mm intake and TB. With the right TUNE which is so important you should be around 470 HP with a 12 bolt. This should get you in the right power range.

You will need a 12 bolt with a 410 or better gear.
You will also have to have a spec 3 or stronger clutch, and better shifter. Suspension would defentially help and a torque arm/ adj shocks/ air bag would be some of the more important items.

YOU WILL HAVE TO HOOK.
Launching the car at a high RPM (6000) would be the best way to get you started. You should beable to get a 1.50 or better 60ft. I would suggest ET Drag slicks and skinnys for the best traction and to help weight.
Then all you have lsft is hoping nothing breaks and that you can drive like a MOFO.
There have defentially been some people to achieve this but it is hard.
Or just do the suspension and power mods, throw a T400 with a 4400 stall and run 10's all day.

stuff in my sig,suspension stuff and a set of decent heads will get you there consistantly. im hopin to do it just with the cam. :D but ill be getting under 3500lbs before that happens i think

Go to "fbody.com" look for 2002redz28 he has a 2002 z28 running 10.60's with STOCK bottom end NO JUICE and the t-rex cam, normal bolt-on stuff, the usual suspension stuff and nitto drag radials.

damn, i hope i get that with heads, ill be thrilled.
there sites not working.

Okay, so I am hearing that I will need:

H/C, 4.10 gears and a cam to match
all boltons
a stage 3 clutch
a solid rearend on the order of a 9 inch or 12 bolt
a torque arm (will that work with my duals?)
and slicks.

Oh, yeah, and I made a little mistake. 3500 is the weight of the car WITHOUT me in it. Does that change matter? (It'll be about 3660)

So with all of the above, could I hit the 10's? Has anybody actually done it on THIS board?

And, no, I will not use any N20.

You just made things that much harder with you in the car.

How much do you weigh?

3660-3500 = 160. :)

Yeah, I guess I did make things harder. And before you ask, no I'm not going to get lighter. Heavier if my workouts are working out.

There aren't that many 346 H/C M6 guys running 10's with full weight.

I don't see this happening with a 3700 Lb race weight.

:bang: I am a finance major too :jest:

So with the revised weight, I'm hearing that it is less possible for that combo to get into the 10's without increasing cu in, and even if it did, it would be an all-out drag setup that was not too streetable.

Am I reading this right?

You know it really doesn't take much to drop the weight of the car by 300lbs and still be streetable.

At that weight, it "could" be done with a good H/C setup, but it would take some real good weather, a great track and lots of traction. Did I mention a TON of practice driving the car well at the track.

Less weight would be easier on parts and make it more obtainable.

I drive my car to work nearly everyday. Pimping on 17's. It can go from street trim to race trim in less than 30 mins and looses ~200lbs. Good set of drag wheels, tires and other misc stuff here and there add up.

Now that I think about it, there is pretty much no way he'll go 10's in that car with just h/c.

NO WAY