Rebuilding and building my Ls1 to 500hp to the wheels
02-02-2014, 01:58 PM
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Rebuilding and building my Ls1 to 500hp to the wheels Hey guy I got few questions about rebuilding my Ls1 I got in my 98 6 speed Trans Am with 180k miles on it . I am fairly new to Ls engines so I thought to hear some advice before buying bunch of parts. I'm looking rebuild and build it up to be a drag/street car with around 500hp to the wheels. I don't have too much money to spend because I am going to rebuild my suspension and tranny but I'm looking to spend around 3 or so thousand in parts for the engine what would be my best bet for the buck and I'm again Nitros and stuff that damages the engine to an extreme because I want to keep the engine for a while 
so what u guys think? I appreciate all the input.
so what u guys think? I appreciate all the input. 
02-02-2014, 02:18 PM
#2
02-02-2014, 04:39 PM
#3
Without spraing or buying all used parts and getting luckier than the majority on this voard, you wont get 500rwhp. that number on a stock cubic inch ls1 has ony been achieved a handful of times and only with expensive top of the line components that would run you much closer to 6-8k. 400-440 wheel is achieved much cheaper and easier. What modifications do you have already? And have you purchased a good clutch yet? A clutch will be mandatory for over 400whp
02-02-2014, 04:46 PM
#4
Start by tearing it down and checking the parts well. Plastigauge the bearings, hand lap the valves, check piston side clearance, etc. See what all need replacing.
If you find big problems like damaged pistons, scored crank, etc, then consider buying a crate engine. By the time you add the cost of parts, machine work, running back and forth, etc, often times it's cheaper to buy crate engine than it is to completely rebuild a worn out one.
If you find big problems like damaged pistons, scored crank, etc, then consider buying a crate engine. By the time you add the cost of parts, machine work, running back and forth, etc, often times it's cheaper to buy crate engine than it is to completely rebuild a worn out one.
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02-03-2014, 12:30 AM
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it's currently stock but runs like a champ. it was always well taken care of and was only owned by 2 people. but yeah I'm completely rebuilding my tranny with a rebuild kit to hold up to 600hp and guy in town is gonna rebuilt my clutch to hold up to 600hp, so I got suspension, tranny and rear end to hold up to the power I need the thing is I only have around 3-4 k tops to drop on engine so I want best I can for the least amount. I was just thinking if I spend some money on a really good tune and get good exhaust, headers and intake with a bigger throttle body and air lid for good air in and out. upgrade pistons, cams, valves, springs, rockers, push rods and few other things like that I could get close to the number I'm looking for? and does anyone know if I can do a turbo set up for around 4k maybe build my engine for a turbo? I just know turbos are alot of pain in the *** so didn't know if I want to deal with it or not.
02-03-2014, 07:07 AM
#9
a 383 ls short block cost $4000,then add some ported heads and a fast intake .with the right cam you will make 500 rwhp.consider a vengeance racing head/cam pkg .or get some Texas Speed prc heads and a big cam.
02-03-2014, 08:28 AM
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The 97-99 motors are the worst of the LS1s, I have a 99 SS with 85k miles & wanted to do HCI but I found an 02 on here with 65K that I'm going to mod instead.
There are plenty of decent motors & short blocks that show up on here for sale @ fair prices.
If you're set on a complete rebuild 5.7s can't really be bored maybe .010 which isn't much, better choice to rebuild is an aluminum block 5.3 which can be bored to 5.7
Just some food for thought.
There are plenty of decent motors & short blocks that show up on here for sale @ fair prices.
If you're set on a complete rebuild 5.7s can't really be bored maybe .010 which isn't much, better choice to rebuild is an aluminum block 5.3 which can be bored to 5.7
Just some food for thought.
Last edited by Strike50; 02-03-2014 at 08:44 AM.
02-03-2014, 09:09 AM
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There is nothing wrong building a 97-99 engine. Once you start modding the differences are negligible at best. However, what everyone is saying is correct. Without nitrous you won't reach your goal for anywhere close to your budget. I would throw a head/cam package on it from somewhere like Texas Speed. Should put you in the 420-440whp range assuming supporting mods. I'd be wiling to bet you would be more than satisfied with that.
02-03-2014, 09:15 AM
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There is nothing wrong building a 97-99 engine. Once you start modding the differences are negligible at best. However, what everyone is saying is correct. Without nitrous you won't reach your goal for anywhere close to your budget. I would throw a head/cam package on it from somewhere like Texas Speed. Should put you in the 420-440whp range assuming supporting mods. I'd be wiling to bet you would be more than satisfied with that.
Last edited by Strike50; 02-03-2014 at 09:27 AM.
02-03-2014, 09:28 AM
#13
for 3-4k dollars you should stick with stock cubic inches and literally just spray it with a 75 shot.
for 2500-3k dollars you can do a H/C/I swap and get close to 425-460whp out of your current engine. a 75 shot on a LS1 is basically nothing if properly tuned. You will be under budget and right at the goals you set for yourself.
Or you could just swap the heads & cam and see how you like it. 450whp on the street is absolutely no slouch and with the proper suspension and launch will put you in the very high 10's or better...
for 2500-3k dollars you can do a H/C/I swap and get close to 425-460whp out of your current engine. a 75 shot on a LS1 is basically nothing if properly tuned. You will be under budget and right at the goals you set for yourself.
Or you could just swap the heads & cam and see how you like it. 450whp on the street is absolutely no slouch and with the proper suspension and launch will put you in the very high 10's or better...
02-03-2014, 09:30 AM
#14
Keep the block you have. There's absolutely nothing wrong with it. Last heads and cam build I did was a stock 145k mile shortblock and I did pretty good #'s with it.
Get your full bolt ons done first and foremost. This will give you time to get used to the car and working on it, and all her little quirks. I've never been an advocate of throwing the kitchen sink at it all at once.
Do it in steps and stages. Read here and learn all you can. Then you'll have a better idea of where you actually want to take the car, but with the added confidence of knowing what you're doing.
Get your full bolt ons done first and foremost. This will give you time to get used to the car and working on it, and all her little quirks. I've never been an advocate of throwing the kitchen sink at it all at once.
Do it in steps and stages. Read here and learn all you can. Then you'll have a better idea of where you actually want to take the car, but with the added confidence of knowing what you're doing.
02-03-2014, 09:39 AM
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Keep the block you have. There's absolutely nothing wrong with it. Last heads and cam build I did was a stock 145k mile shortblock and I did pretty good #'s with it.
Get your full bolt ons done first and foremost. This will give you time to get used to the car and working on it, and all her little quirks. I've never been an advocate of throwing the kitchen sink at it all at once.
Do it in steps and stages. Read here and learn all you can. Then you'll have a better idea of where you actually want to take the car, but with the added confidence of knowing what you're doing.
Get your full bolt ons done first and foremost. This will give you time to get used to the car and working on it, and all her little quirks. I've never been an advocate of throwing the kitchen sink at it all at once.
Do it in steps and stages. Read here and learn all you can. Then you'll have a better idea of where you actually want to take the car, but with the added confidence of knowing what you're doing.
02-03-2014, 10:03 AM
#16
I appreciate the great advice! well I just bought another car to be my daily so I'm gonna pull the engine and slowly start tearing it apart and see what all I can save and not and I'm gonna get everything balanced and machined that I will keep and need to find best head / cam combo for my car, do all bolt ons and there is a shop in town where I live professional tunes Ls engines they r the best in area so I think with a good tune I should be fine what heads and cams do u guys think I need tho? and what internal parts will I actually need to change to not waste money but to make it durable and strong?
If your block & rotating assembly spec out ok then all you should need is main bearings, rod bearings & piston rings for the bottom end. You'll need a new oil pump & water pump, oil pump O-ring, front cover, rear cover & oil pan gaskets...front & rear main seals...
...your heads/Cam swap will include the new camshaft. while in there you need to/should change lifters, pushrods, springs, locks & retainers. You'll want a trunion upgrade for your stock rockers.
For working stock heads i'd recommend looking into Advanced Inductions or Total Engine Airflow. ~1100 bucks will set you up very nicely with either company. Considering your starting point you may want to find a pair of LS6/LS2 243 heads on the forums and send those off. they will further increase compression and be worth more HP due to a better port design over a factory LS1 casting. Depends on your budget and where you wanna go with the car...
I went with Cometic .040 head gaskets on my car. expensive but worth it...though just make sure you have A set of head gaskets on hand. You'll also need new head bolts or studs as the stock ones are NOT reusable.
I know i'm leaving out a bunch of little stuff. My best advice at this point is if you think you can do a H/C/I swap for 2,000...count on spending 3,000...you need to leave room for all the little stuff you'll always forget and a little bit of the unexpected too...
02-03-2014, 10:57 AM
#17
If it were mine on a budget id do an airlid, ported stock throttle body, and an ls6 intake. That should safely be under $700
A full exhaust would be around $1k I'd reccomend Pacesetter headers and a Hooker catback however thats all personal preference. That leaves $1300 Id buy a set of 243 heads, new cam, springs, and pushrods. Comp trunion upgrade, ls7 lifters, timing set, and oil pump. That could run a little over, but will probably be right on target. Id have a valve job done on the heads and mill them .015
Id look into a 228/232 112 or something close to that. Much bigger and youre gonna start trading off more low end power than youre gonna gain up high. I feel what I reccomend should do an easy 405-410 wheel horsepower and be stout at all rpm and ranges and be more than fun.
EDIT: H/C cost closer to $1800
Id be super skeptical on clutch rebuild. Id skip that altogether and just buy a new one and if youre taking off the oil pan make sure to change the factory rod bolts. Thats the biggest pronlem with the older ls bottom ends. Theyre known for stretching and causing bearings to spin.
A full exhaust would be around $1k I'd reccomend Pacesetter headers and a Hooker catback however thats all personal preference. That leaves $1300 Id buy a set of 243 heads, new cam, springs, and pushrods. Comp trunion upgrade, ls7 lifters, timing set, and oil pump. That could run a little over, but will probably be right on target. Id have a valve job done on the heads and mill them .015
Id look into a 228/232 112 or something close to that. Much bigger and youre gonna start trading off more low end power than youre gonna gain up high. I feel what I reccomend should do an easy 405-410 wheel horsepower and be stout at all rpm and ranges and be more than fun.
EDIT: H/C cost closer to $1800
Id be super skeptical on clutch rebuild. Id skip that altogether and just buy a new one and if youre taking off the oil pan make sure to change the factory rod bolts. Thats the biggest pronlem with the older ls bottom ends. Theyre known for stretching and causing bearings to spin.
02-03-2014, 12:00 PM
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I appreciate everybody's input it gave me much much more idea what I should be getting and looking for. also would I need to replace my injectors, coils, fuel pump and accessories of that sort or they should be able to handle alright?
02-03-2014, 12:04 PM
#19
And some 42 lb injectors
Those 2 will handle 500hp easily and you can build off them for more power later if you decide to spray a little!!
Stock coils and accessories are fine!
02-03-2014, 12:23 PM
#20
Coils are a no. Theyre good for all power levels. Only replace when they stop working. Lid and exhaust you may be able to get used for good prices. If you decide to go that roure make sure the sealing strips on the underside of lid are in tact and not torn. Exhaust stay away from anything dented. Magnaflow and Hooker are the only two with consistent good reviews on sound after removing cats and after cam install. They all sound good on bolt on cars. Magnaflows quiet and its stainless. Hookers not stainless but sounds much better. I would NOT buy any internal parts used. Too many risks for problems and individually the parts arent high anyways.