guys running the truck oil filter
04-18-2014, 10:54 AM
#21
Tires are a consumable and it is very easy to visually see when they need replacing. Oil requires a chemical analysis to make the same determination.
Now if you said "my tires still have lots of tread (even though they are many years out from the manufacture date and may have dry rot) but I will keep running them until they are bald", that would be a more accurate comparison but still not what I'm advocating.
I would be willing to bet most people's oil analysis of synthetic would show it still has plenty of life left at 7000-8000 miles or more, yet most of us are still changing it at 3000-5000 or less.
04-18-2014, 11:09 AM
#22
3,000 miles here, and it certainly is dark when it's changed. I adhere to the 3k rule. I don't care if Castrol & GM BOTH came out with a letter guaranteeing me that the oil and engine is good for 7500 mile intervals.
Oil is cheap. Filters are cheap. Engines are not.
Oil is cheap. Filters are cheap. Engines are not.
04-18-2014, 11:12 AM
#23
Seriously, that is 1 of the most ignorant thing I have read. You change it because it looks dirty? Hate to tell you this, but unless you flush your block and clean your pan every time you change your oil it will probably "look dirty" in about 500 miles.
04-18-2014, 11:16 AM
#24
I'm impressed. Your eyes are as accurate as an oil analysis lab. Can I send you my samples from now on? Seriously, that is 1 of the most ignorant thing I have read. You change it because it looks dirty? Hate to tell you this, but unless you flush your block and clean your pan every time you change your oil it will probably "look dirty" in about 500 miles.
Around 1500 miles it doesn't have it's golden color anymore, but is still translucent. Not 500.
At 3k it's very dark, not translucent at all and ready to be changed. Nobody is telling you when to change your oil. Simply stating opinions.
04-18-2014, 12:00 PM
#25
I run the truck one on mine for the same price why not have the extra filtering capacity? It barely hangs below the pan which IMO is nice because its much easier to grip the filter. There are so many things that hang lower than that I'm not worried. I have speed bumps all in my complex and never have an issue. My ARH's and k member both hang lower than the filter and it never scrapes.
04-18-2014, 08:12 PM
#26
Paul Bell, My 02 WS6 takes the AC Delco PF 48 and not the AC Delco PF 46. Here is a thread I made a long time ago about it.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...il-filter.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...il-filter.html
04-18-2014, 08:14 PM
#27
I respect your opinion differing than mine but the above quote I do not feel is even remotely fair comparison.
Tires are a consumable and it is very easy to visually see when they need replacing. Oil requires a chemical analysis to make the same determination.
Now if you said "my tires still have lots of tread (even though they are many years out from the manufacture date and may have dry rot) but I will keep running them until they are bald", that would be a more accurate comparison but still not what I'm advocating.
I would be willing to bet most people's oil analysis of synthetic would show it still has plenty of life left at 7000-8000 miles or more, yet most of us are still changing it at 3000-5000 or less.
Tires are a consumable and it is very easy to visually see when they need replacing. Oil requires a chemical analysis to make the same determination.
Now if you said "my tires still have lots of tread (even though they are many years out from the manufacture date and may have dry rot) but I will keep running them until they are bald", that would be a more accurate comparison but still not what I'm advocating.
I would be willing to bet most people's oil analysis of synthetic would show it still has plenty of life left at 7000-8000 miles or more, yet most of us are still changing it at 3000-5000 or less.
LOVE that '71!
04-19-2014, 09:20 AM
#31
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I'm impressed. Your eyes are as accurate as an oil analysis lab. Can I send you my samples from now on?
Seriously, that is 1 of the most ignorant thing I have read. You change it because it looks dirty? Hate to tell you this, but unless you flush your block and clean your pan every time you change your oil it will probably "look dirty" in about 500 miles.
Seriously, that is 1 of the most ignorant thing I have read. You change it because it looks dirty? Hate to tell you this, but unless you flush your block and clean your pan every time you change your oil it will probably "look dirty" in about 500 miles.
04-20-2014, 11:59 AM
#33
My e-peen is much more biggerer than yours!
I use the GM OLM on my DD GP GXP. Used it on both Northstars too. Never an issue.
I'm gonna try to do the new motor every 3k or so. just because.
I also change the oil in my 460whp Turbo Busa every other track day...so about 8 miles. LOL
I use the GM OLM on my DD GP GXP. Used it on both Northstars too. Never an issue.
I'm gonna try to do the new motor every 3k or so. just because.
I also change the oil in my 460whp Turbo Busa every other track day...so about 8 miles. LOL
04-20-2014, 02:54 PM
#34
My e-peen is much more biggerer than yours!
I use the GM OLM on my DD GP GXP. Used it on both Northstars too. Never an issue.
I'm gonna try to do the new motor every 3k or so. just because.
I also change the oil in my 460whp Turbo Busa every other track day...so about 8 miles. LOL
I use the GM OLM on my DD GP GXP. Used it on both Northstars too. Never an issue.
I'm gonna try to do the new motor every 3k or so. just because.
I also change the oil in my 460whp Turbo Busa every other track day...so about 8 miles. LOL
04-20-2014, 08:15 PM
#35
Yeah...It's legit. 24psi on a GT28 class turbo. E85. Non-intercooled.
It also makes 262hp on 93 pump for those cross country rides. bike is 100% street legal. 8 over arm is really the only chassis work. It's got 3 hole lowering links and a strap but it's riding stock height at the moment. Waiting to finish the AMS-2000 install to control Boost and clutch lockup action on my NLR Boost Compensated Lockup. Stock plates/fibers/stock springs and handles 460hp with ease. rides like stock til you twist the handle.
It's a serious dose of hangthemotherfuckonrightfuckingnow...
It's best time is a 8.39 @ 180.03 (obviously chassis/traction limited) and it also ran the mile in 222.9mph with nothing more done than a rear sprocket swap.
It also makes 262hp on 93 pump for those cross country rides. bike is 100% street legal. 8 over arm is really the only chassis work. It's got 3 hole lowering links and a strap but it's riding stock height at the moment. Waiting to finish the AMS-2000 install to control Boost and clutch lockup action on my NLR Boost Compensated Lockup. Stock plates/fibers/stock springs and handles 460hp with ease. rides like stock til you twist the handle.
It's a serious dose of hangthemotherfuckonrightfuckingnow...
It's best time is a 8.39 @ 180.03 (obviously chassis/traction limited) and it also ran the mile in 222.9mph with nothing more done than a rear sprocket swap.
04-20-2014, 08:21 PM
#36
Dear God...
Btw, the truck filter is no problem. I run the Wix 51522 in mine. Headers are lower and the K-Member is right there. So if it hits, it would have to be unbelievable and would probably take out the regular oil filter as well.
I change mine every 3k... I use Valvoline VR1 Conventional.
On my daily driver Nissan with the VQ35, I used German Castrol but recently switched to Shell Rotella-T. I really like it as well. I change it every 3k.
But both are dino oils. Synthetic I went 5k.
Btw, the truck filter is no problem. I run the Wix 51522 in mine. Headers are lower and the K-Member is right there. So if it hits, it would have to be unbelievable and would probably take out the regular oil filter as well.
I change mine every 3k... I use Valvoline VR1 Conventional.
On my daily driver Nissan with the VQ35, I used German Castrol but recently switched to Shell Rotella-T. I really like it as well. I change it every 3k.
But both are dino oils. Synthetic I went 5k.
04-22-2014, 09:27 PM
#37
I change my oil & filter when the oil looks dirty on the stick. On my DD Cheby Blazer, this is about 2,000~2,500 miles.
Seriously, if the oil is dirty but the interval recommendation says it's good for another 1,500 miles, is it wise to follow the recommendation?
It's not like the stuff's expensive: 6 quarts of QC on sale & a M1 extended filter is like 55 bucks.
"My tires are bald but I'm not changing them because it's maker says they're good for another 5,000 miles"
Seriously, if the oil is dirty but the interval recommendation says it's good for another 1,500 miles, is it wise to follow the recommendation?
It's not like the stuff's expensive: 6 quarts of QC on sale & a M1 extended filter is like 55 bucks.
"My tires are bald but I'm not changing them because it's maker says they're good for another 5,000 miles"
04-23-2014, 03:12 AM
#39
I always run 6 1/2 qts of oil with the stock oil filter, been doing this in every LS1 car for 15 years. You could easily run 7 qts. I change oil every 6k miles unless I smell fuel in the oil then it gets changed regardless how many miles or how its looks.
OH AND BY THE WAY
HAWKS THiRD GEN are a bunch of CROOKS!
OH AND BY THE WAY
HAWKS THiRD GEN are a bunch of CROOKS!
