Cam swap. Ran fine now won't start?
 

Ok so I finished my cam swap last night. It fired right up. I let it warm a while as topped off fluids. Started again a min ago an let it idle a while. Decided to check a couple codes and raise the rear up to get a more accurate check of fluids with car level. I had a 02 sensor code. I don't remember unplugging any f those. I had a random misfire code that was in history. And a u1064 or something can't communicate with bcm? Anyway I cleared the codes and went to fire the car up again to see where I might be dripping some coolant. I changed to new pump gaskets and all the hoses look good. I can't figure out why the car won't fire over now all of a sudden since I cleared the codes and raised the car. Also ideas where else to look for water leak??

The p0161 sensor code I'm not really worried about. The p0300 misfire is probably cause the new cam and no time yet. The u1064 is the one i feel that is giving me issue.

The u1064 is a communication issue involving the DIM (dash integration module).

yeah I looked it up...I also see BCM?

Neither of these mean anything to me.

Based on a quick reading of the attached, I doubt that it is preventing the engine from starting.

hmmm...other thoughts on what to check then? I have checked all connections I can think of. Maybe grounds?

I am going to let my battery stay on the charger overnight.

The starter is turning the motor over, but the motor is just not starting - is that correct?

Have you tried to reload your tune into the ECM again? I just had my car off the battery for a couple months and put the battery on and it started but was ruff then wouldn't start. Reloaded the tune and it started right up everytime lol. Just a thought.

That is correct.

For the water leak. I went ahead and redid my water pump again. I cleaned off the mating surfaces better this time with a wire wheel.

I dont have anything to do that with. I am on a stock tune for now as I havent made it that far yet to get a tune.

The issue could be grounding, such as the main ground from the battery to the frame on the grounds on the back of the cylinder heads. However, since the problem appeared in conjunction with the cam swap I would focus first on those parts of the fuel and ignition wiring harness (connectors) that you disconnected or moved out of the way for the cam swap, such as - MAP (wiring & hose), fuel injector, ignition coil, engine coolant temp sensor, MAF/IAT etc. It could also be a vacuum leak (hose disconnected).

what all did you change when you did the cam? injectors? what cam did you put in?

cam is a 238/242 615/610 113+2...new water pump gaskets, new valve cover gaskets, new melling 10296 pump, valve springs and retainers.
The car idled fine the night before last, and idled fine for a while yesterday. I turned it off, and raised my rear up on jack stands to level the car, and it would not crank back right after, so I am not sure what may have changed from that.

I redid my ground under the battery last night.

I checked one ground last night and redid it under the battery.

I do notice something odd, i put my battery on the charger night all night. in the car with the key on it showed only like 12 to 13 volts, so I went out to check the battery this morning and the light on the charger is still red like the battery is not charging.

When cranking the motor was def turning over, and seemed that it was spinning fast enough to fire if it wanted to. I am planning to replace the battery today, but I feel thats not the issue.

Could be a cam position sensor issue - Sensor located at rear of block on LS1 and requires removing intake to get at.

It's been a major pain in my ass with my H/C install on my car, so much so that if my cam swap and new sensor doesn't solve the issue I am converting to the front mounted cam sensor.

If this is the case, the computer doesn't know which stroke to fire the coils on and just ends up firing on both (not good - your headers will get red-hot). It also shows the same symptoms you are mentioning, car will start, run, then next time will not start.

I didnt mess around with that area, but I guess it could randomly go bad. Is there a way to really test that?

Ok, now i really am puzzled.

I took the battery to autozone, my charger was showing wrong, battery is fully charged.

Ok so I take the battery back home, fill up with coolant, and fire it up...fires up instantly. I let it warm up to temp at idle and top off fluids. Purred like a kitten.

Power the car off. Then go to crank again, it wont start..just turns but wont fire up. If i mash the gas the car will start, but as soon as I let off it will die.

Also, I have no codes since I cleared them out last night.

Thread jacker!!!

Nice thread hijack.

ok I went out...hooked battery back up...crank, no start. Cranked again but foot on the gas, started up...I had to feather the gas and keep the rpm's up and then let off and it would drop and correct itself.

So this morning it started fine on its on, no throttle needed...now I can get it going with foot on the gas and letting off slowly. If i blip the throttle it will dip way down unless it dies. Cut on the AC and it dies instantly.