HUGE cam that i just bought.......
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Launching!
Joined: Nov 2003
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HUGE cam that i just bought....... lobes are PN 3728r/3731r
236/242 .602/.610 on 112 lsa / comp cam
will this fit with the stock heads? it is a smaller cam then the t-rex so i dont think there would be any issues, but what do yall think?? will the PtoV be fine???
what is the XE-R lobes mean??? as opposed to a regular cam?
thanx!!!!
mike
236/242 .602/.610 on 112 lsa / comp cam
will this fit with the stock heads? it is a smaller cam then the t-rex so i dont think there would be any issues, but what do yall think?? will the PtoV be fine???
what is the XE-R lobes mean??? as opposed to a regular cam?
thanx!!!!
mike
Last edited by dazman; May 18, 2004 at 11:40 PM.
the XE-R lobes are comps aggressive lobes, great power but you'll need a good vavle train. whats the rest of your setup? with stock heads PtoV clearances should be fine, clay if you want to be 100% sure though.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2003
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rest of setup consists of stock heads (for now..... i wanted a really aggresive cam to for future build of motor 
) i plan on using the crane duals or PP gold duals, and hardened pushrods, with double roller timing set. along with headers... on this is just a cam and header car for now... then in a few months Absolute 2.5s....
you think this will be enough ?
thanx!
mike
) i plan on using the crane duals or PP gold duals, and hardened pushrods, with double roller timing set. along with headers... on this is just a cam and header car for now... then in a few months Absolute 2.5s.... you think this will be enough ?
thanx!
mike
Last edited by dazman; May 19, 2004 at 07:57 AM.
Just because a cam is "smaller than a TRex" doesn't mean it won't have issues.
The TRex was designed around valve opening and closing events... not just durations and lifts. You can move valve events around and make lots of cams "fit" or "not fit".
If you are unsure, clay it. Better safe than sorry. 2 heads full of bent valves after a cam swap really sucks. Just ask my 94Z about that one.
The TRex was designed around valve opening and closing events... not just durations and lifts. You can move valve events around and make lots of cams "fit" or "not fit".
If you are unsure, clay it. Better safe than sorry. 2 heads full of bent valves after a cam swap really sucks. Just ask my 94Z about that one.
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 237
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From: Ft. Worth, TX
I would putty the pistons just to make sure. And be dead positive that the dots on your double roller are lined up Crank@12 Cam@6 by the teeth. That cam should fit I'm running a 237/242 .595/.595 on a 112lsa Lunati and just bent all the intake valves in the heads 2 weeks ago. Not fun but I did end up with ported and polished heads. So just be sure that you install everything properly and double/ tripple check the work. I should have some numbers up this weekend dyno or track numbers.
You need to see if the cam has any advance ground in to it. It will be marked on the back of the cam with the lobe numbers and LSA. For example, it might say 3728/3731 112+4 on the butt of the cam. If you got a cam card, look at the ICL. LSA minus ICL gives you the advance. I say if the cam is on a 114 LSA and has NO advace ground in, it will fit. If it is on a 112 or lower with 4 degrees advance it won't work.
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On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Originally Posted by dazman
lobes are PN 3728r/3731r
236/242 .602/.610 on 112 lsa / comp cam
will this fit with the stock heads? it is a smaller cam then the t-rex so i dont think there would be any issues, but what do yall think?? will the PtoV be fine???
what is the XE-R lobes mean??? as opposed to a regular cam?
thanx!!!!
mike
236/242 .602/.610 on 112 lsa / comp cam
will this fit with the stock heads? it is a smaller cam then the t-rex so i dont think there would be any issues, but what do yall think?? will the PtoV be fine???
what is the XE-R lobes mean??? as opposed to a regular cam?
thanx!!!!
mike
His car is a '95 Trans Am. He holds the national record for the fastest N/A LT1 w/ an M6. This past winter, he swapped out his LT1 and put in an LS1. He REALLY knows his stuff.
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Originally Posted by Bearcat Steve
A local guy has that cam in an LS1. He posts on this board from time to time. Name=LT1DAVE. You can also find him at www.lt1dave.com or on the Cincinnati fbody board -- www.gcfba.net.
His car is a '95 Trans Am. He holds the national record for the fastest N/A LT1 w/ an M6. This past winter, he swapped out his LT1 and put in an LS1. He REALLY knows his stuff.
His car is a '95 Trans Am. He holds the national record for the fastest N/A LT1 w/ an M6. This past winter, he swapped out his LT1 and put in an LS1. He REALLY knows his stuff.
They don't make XE-R lobes for LT-1's. He may have a similar cam, but not the same. 
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Bay Area, CA
Originally Posted by dazman
so what if i put the cam in and spin the motor around a bunch of times? would that prove that the cam was in right and is going to fit??? thanx!
mike
thanx!mike
that means that there is probably no contact, but that doesn't verify there is enough P/V clearance, so when a valvespring desides to get get lazy it wont smack your piston, and trash your motor, if the heads are coming off cool clay the piston check for clearance there is also the valvedrop method used with a test spring and a dial indicator, good luck.....
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2003
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see, i DONT want to have to remove the heads... how can i tell if im going to have enough clearance with the heads ON... and what is the worst that can happen if i DO bend a valve?? THANX guys, yall have been a great help. i really need to get this resolved...
thanks
mike
thanks
mike
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 237
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From: Ft. Worth, TX
The only way to do it with the heads on is to use a degree wheel or the valve spring/dial indivator method. As for the worst that can happen would be bending all 8 intake valves in the heads. New valve job and since your their you might as well port and polish the stockers or just by a set of S2's from a sponsor. Ask me how I know. I just got mine running last Friday after I did the same thing.
The spining the motor over by hand you can do it that way but use a ratchet not a breaker bar. When I did mine the first time we used a breaker bar without problems cranked it over for less than 5sec. and bent all my intake valves. So my advice would be to find and borrow a degree wheel or the valve springs tester and dail.
Hope this helps and take your time!!! nothing worse than trying to come up with $2500 you don't have to fix something that could have been avoided.
Brandon
The spining the motor over by hand you can do it that way but use a ratchet not a breaker bar. When I did mine the first time we used a breaker bar without problems cranked it over for less than 5sec. and bent all my intake valves. So my advice would be to find and borrow a degree wheel or the valve springs tester and dail.
Hope this helps and take your time!!! nothing worse than trying to come up with $2500 you don't have to fix something that could have been avoided.
Brandon
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2003
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ok... so i need to get a degree wheel ( i have no idea how to use one ) or a valve spring dial indicator... where do i purchase these things? if worse comes to worse, ill just get the heads off and flycut the pistons, in which i might have to end up doing... oh boy...
silverbullet- it sounds like youve had a hell of a time... thanx for your input!...
thanx all...
mike
silverbullet- it sounds like youve had a hell of a time... thanx for your input!...
thanx all...
mike
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 237
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From: Ft. Worth, TX
You can pull all the specs from the Comp website. Then post them here. If you do fly-cut the heads stay on the car I believe, I don't know cause mine came off. No problem on the info it's better for one person to experience it and tell others than to sit back and watch another person do the same thing. I would call around to some shops TR, TSP etc etc and call comp and ask lots of questions anything you can think of that might help. If you bought the cam new you'll just have to go for it and find out, if it's used like mine ask the person you bought it from what kinda set-up they ran and how it worked. As for finding the degree wheel if you know of any performance shops close to you or freinds that have the tools ask to borrow one if not then check the sponsors on the right or even comp cams and lunati both have them. I don't know on cost but more than likely there not cheap.
Brandon
Brandon