kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

And that right there is what bugs me about this hobby...12 different "experts" giving 12 different answers. Can we can get some max rpm and spring pressure rating on these products. I can tell you I will be hot if my lifters fail.

Cstraub

iTrader: (1)

I have no problem picking up the phone and answering questions. If I don't know it I can call Ed Morel.

kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

I did not mean you specifically, just referring to different vendors. I did not know you were a Morel rep until recently. I appreciate your info you have given, but it is just the opposite of what I have read and been told from a few other vendors. Now that this information is out there, I suspect the advice given will change by those few.

I have read posts withing the last couple years stating the 5315 was good to 7200rpm, then seen the same vendor 6 months later say 6500rpm. Trust me when I say I have done a lot of research and it still apparently was not enough.

Cstraub

iTrader: (1)

Morel biggest issue is supply. That right there is the problem most have. They put in a 3rd line back in Feb. to keep up with demand. Supply issue should get better.

I also know for a fact that Morel has been contacted for direct accounts and everyone has been told....At this time we are taking on new accounts because we can't supply our current customers. For some this did not sit well.

My advice, you want the biggest wheel on the lifter you can get.

LT194CamaroZ

iTrader: (15)

I'm thinking I'm going to go with the johnson 2110s. But I've been very indecisive about this too and time is running out bbefore I'm going to have to make a choice.

5 Liter Eater

iTrader: (5)

So what did we decide? LOL

Im building an LSX and while I have never had any problems with LS7 lifters I'd like to move to a link bar even though I don't need to as the LSX has trays. Application is a twin turbo @ ~1000 RWHP. All Pro heads with ~150# seat pressure, J2k rockers, 3/8 thick wall pushrods and nothing crazy for a cam (231/236 .617 .623 on 118+2) although I don't know the profile. So the rest of the valvetrain is set. But opinions on link bar lifters seem to be like ******** which is why I like this thread.

Cstraub

iTrader: (1)

I'll just say this. There are 4 lifter mfg for the NASCAR stuff and Morel is one of them. To supply one of the top engine builders in the country with parts that have to perform for 500 miles in excess of 8500 rpm is saying something about their quality.

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

Honestly not really much lol we learned about many different lifters. But as of now even the morel rep wont directly come out and say what the 5315 is good to. Honestly because most likely there are too many variables and no ones wants to stake claim to it. If you have a stock type build with stock rockers, and just a good spring the ls7, 5315 or Johnson 2110 are good imo and have been proven. None are bad. The 2110r is a slower leak down though so it has more potential for high rpm which should be noted. However the 2110 is better built with better tolerances but you pay for it...How does that old saying go? lol

Heres the thing, I dont care if they revised the 5290 or not the failures I saw left a bad taste in my mouth and I would not want to be the next guinea pig even though i am sure they are fine now. With the weight of the J2K's I would seriously consider a link bar. If you really didnt want a link bar then the 2110r is the next best drop in option since it has .150 travel like the 5290 does.

As far as quality link bars go theres the 5206/5274 and 5294. The 5206 is comparable to the 2116 johnsons and the 5294 is comparable to the 2126. The difference is the johnsons are about 100 bucks cheaper than the morels. Here you cant make a bad decision all are good. Comes down to personal preference. The short travel versions might be better for your build with the boost, just something to consider.


I like the 2110 a lot after comparing that between the 5313 and speaking to 2 company reps the 2110 just seemed like it was a betetr option fro the average joe if they have the spare cash. It goes to 8500 rpm in the copo camaro and was hand picked by GM to do so. Both are good companies but here was the deciding factor for me.

I could not get in contact with anyone at morel, even on their website it says they do not take calls from normal customers, that kind of rubbed me wrong. I realize I may not be a dealer but if I'm dumping 600 into a set of lifters and I want to talk to the company who made them for a specific reason then hell ya I should be able to. OTOH I pmed Havoc on here who is Randy the chief engineer at Johnson, he asked me to call since it would be easier. Not only did Randy spend 30 min on the phone going over my options and my build with me but he asked me to follow up with him on my choice and I even called him back a few times with questions, all of which he was polite and happy to answer. That did it for me, I dont care how big of a company or how small you are customer service is key.

Honestly that doesnt really impress me all too much. They arent using the 5315 in Nascar. They are using lifters that cost 4 times more than what that costs hell probably even more than that. Morel makes HQ lifters like everyone else but the 5315 is not meant to be that. Johnson 2110's go in the copos that live 1/4 mile at a time and go to 8500 rpm as well so they both have good options.....

LT194CamaroZ

iTrader: (15)

The copo deal is really what has my eyes on the 2110s, if gm hand picked them when they could've had any lifter they wanted then it's probably a pretty good choice. Of course I'd like a lifter with a bigger wheel and link bars but at what cost, not worth it imo.

gagliano7

I did a lot of research on lifters also. I will be pissed if this is true. Now people are saying the LS7 lifters are as good or better than the morels 5315's. This is the first time I am reading this. I know Martin at Tick said the Morel 5315's are better and they have also seen gains in HP with just a lifter change. I am sure I will read that a trunion upgrade isn't as good as stock. Sometimes it is very hard to get the proper info around here.

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

Guys I'm sure either choice is fine...if I had to choose I would still probably go with the morel I'm just passing the info I heard from a couple guys along. Martin says he has no problems with the 5315s so obviously they do work

Cstraub

iTrader: (1)

You can't compare a .700" wheel lifter to a .750" wheel lifter. The boys as PAC decided to handle lifters. They bought everyone's lifter and took them apart to decide what they wanted to sell.

When you compare lifters you compare a .700 wheel to a .700" wheel. When you step up to a 5206 your getting a whole new level of lifter with tool steel components. Morel leak test every single lifter...everyone. That is quality control.

v8pwr

iTrader: (19)

I'm not sure who told people that a straight pushrod is stronger than a tapered pushrod. This is false. Unfortunately they cost more. I was able to fit a 7/16-3/8 double taper pushrod on my ETP heads without issue.

usdmholden

So a pushrod that tapers from 3/8" to 7/16" and back to 3/8" is stronger than a full length 7/16" pushrod of the exact same wall thickness and material? Can you show me the data?

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

I dont think anyone here compared a .700 wheel to a .750 wheel lifter. The 2116 and the 5206 are both .750 wheel and the 2110 and 5315 are both .700.

It was never any contest that the .750 lifters are better than the .700 ones, so I'm not sure what the point is here? Thats pretty much common knowledge, and the price point of all the models reflect that.
Uggh no, I do this testing all the time with deflection. A straight piece of 3/8 tubing will be much stiffer than a 5/16-3/8-5/16 all day every day. Strength comes from diameter mostly so the more surface area you have the stronger the beam all things else being equal. A dual taper is useful if placed right above the lifter but you are still decreasing surface are on the pushrod over a full length one of that size. A tapered 3/8 to 5/16 will be better than a 5/16 but a full 3.8 will be better still. They're more expensive because theyre more labor intensive to make. Go check out nascar and let me know how many tapered pushrods you see.

Hera are some other tests done by vettenuts. The only way to get a tapered pushrod stiffer than a full dia one is to increase wall thickness. But that is an entirely different variable. Only changing the diameter on a pushrod, leaving thickness alone will result in a stiffer pushrod for the full dia length one.
http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...stiffness.html

Cstraub

iTrader: (1)

A straight pushrod is stronger. It is a column. Pushrods are engine columns.

Cstraub

iTrader: (1)

Here some good reading with a few contributors working for engine programs that have multi million dollar R&D budgets.

http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...shrod+diameter

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

A tapered pushrod will create stress risers in the tapered areas. As you apply a vertical load the forces will be concentrated on the end because Pressure=F/A so as area (diameter) decreases you get more pressure on that piece which will cause the pushrod to buckle somewhere along the taper. This is also the main reason diameter plays a much larger role in stiffness over wall thickness. The surface area you gain with a .135 wall to a .080 wall is tony compared to just increasing overall dia...


On a side note I just picked up a set of arp head studs torqued down 1 time for mock up for 175 bucks no more shitty TTY bolts for me lol. Those things scared the **** out of me every time I torqued a set.

kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

Speaking of bolts, if you spoke with Tony he would of said to stick with ARP bolts instead of studs for Aluminum. Here we go again lol...

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

lol thats one of going to respectfully disagree on. I've never heard of problems with studs really. I have had water in the bolt holes though multiple times when putting heads back on even after cleaning the hell out of the block. With studs at least I can monitor how they are going in and instead of torquing them down they just go in hand snug so much less chance of screwing something up lol