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Totally dependent on parts arrival. Everything is ordered. Once I get the lifters and rockers, I can swap the heads and rockers and measure for pushrods. Once I get those measurements out to be made, if the intake and throttle arrive, I can pretty much finish the assembly, then when I get the rods, drop them in, tighten the rockers, valve covers, coils, go.
If the WP shows up, I will do it at the same time. If not, I will go back and do it. Same with the ATI. Easy enough to do after the fact if necessary.
The MRS, Kooks, and Clutch are down the road, but will get done.
Subscribed for your build. I agree with the posters above about the Turn One PS pump, I have one on my C5 LS1 because I track it and it prevents fluid from heating up like stocker but side benefit is it frees up horsepower. I think they have different size pulleys available,,,billet pulleys...nice.
Tony is "The Master" and you have top shelf parts so I'm very interested in your results.
1. MMS220 heads - mamofied and fully assembled by the master himself
1a. 2.055 hollow intake valves
1b. 8019 springs
1c. Titanium retainers
2. 040 MLS head gaskets
3. Johnson short travel lifters with link bar
4. Manton custom length 11/32 x .125 pushrods
5. Yella Terra rockers with 10mm bolts
6. Fast 102 - mamofied
7. Nick Williams 102 throttle
8. Maziere electric water pump
9. ATI underdrive pulley (long overdue)
10. ARP hardware
11. Lingenfelter 100mm MAF
12. Cam will be the current cam in the car 227/236 112+3
That's a hella parts list ! Nice events on the cam also, very balanced and should have a wide powerband. How does it drive now ? Have you calculated what your new compression will be ?
Drives pretty well, actually. Bucks just a touch under 15mph, which is normal for a cammed manual. Pulls very hard from 3K-6800. I have the limiter set at 6800.
Compression will be 11.4 on the new build. Not worried about dynamic
Bucking is a couple of things: play with the follower table if it's on acceleration; cracker if when you lift off. Also make sure the A/F is dialed in and that you're timing is right. Bigger cams like less timing. Smaller... more. Find what works.
The good news is, the 220s will add compression. That also helps.
The 1992 Toyota MR2 was a factory electric/hydraulic power steering system. small electric motor driving the pump (think Maziere-esque). With some custom hydraulic hose work, you can mate the MR2 pump to the rack and pinion and take the load off the crankshaft.
You could also use the 2013 Nissan Altima pump, but the servo motor they use makes this annoying whine. The MR2 was quiet.
Should free up more than the maziere water pump, since the fluid is more viscous and under higher pressure.
Back to this for a second...why not use the GM electric steering?
Jake it doesn't buck on decel or accel. It's only when I drive through the plant. I have to go 15mph for 3/4 mile. In a manual transmission with 7.5 degrees overlap. I usually speed up to 17 in second and clutch pedal down to 13. Rinse and repeat. It's the only drivability issue I have. We're it not for the in plant speed limit, I would say it drives perfectly
Looks like the GM option is an electric rack. And it's got more recalls than parts in the Internet search. Think I'd rather go electric/hydraulic and keep the existing rack - even if it is a bit Frankenstein
Ya I knew they would fit stock but I wasn't sure about the YT I'll probably get one and see. What's the closest they can come to head while just rolling it over by hand? I know things will expand a bit and they can rub when hot but not cold
Tear down has commenced. Didn't get very far last night, because I worked 80 hours since Wednesday, and I'm tired. But, intake off, valve covers - the easy stuff.
I should have a shipment of parts arrive today, so my goal for tonight is to get the lifters swapped and the pushrod lengths measured. Also going to double check the wipe pattern on the valve tips to make sure it is centered. Assuming it is, I'll work on the rest of the assembly while waiting on the pushrods (maziere, FAST, ATI, etc) and try to have everything assembled. Then when the rods get in, I can measure them to make sure the right ones go to the right spot, install them, rockers, valve covers, coils, and start making music.
Easy, right?
Wife out of town rest of the week, so I can work on it really late and hopefully get it done and waiting on pushrods by Friday. It'll be a push for sure.
When I get home, I'll try to remember to snap some pictures, but I really didn't plan to photo the tear down, since most everyone has seen the 347 block in its naked glory.
If anyone has any requests for specific pics, let me know and I'll do my best.
Progress slower than I would like. I spent a lot of time trying to figure out how to get the heads off without getting junk in the bolt holes. Finally figured out to take the WP off and let the coolant out that way. Then, I thought I'd be able to pull the headers back away from the heads and reach the head bolts, but I can't get the clearance, so I had to lift the car and drop the exhaust to get the heads out. Sort of frustrated. I thought I would have the new heads on before I went to bed. Oh, well. Hopefully the time I spent up front analyzing will pay back later by not having to clean the cylinders or bolt holes nearly as much.
I'll follow up with more parts posts in a bit after I get the stuff uploaded.
Some FAST stuff. One thing really cool about this intake is that the brake booster hose connector doesn't fully entrap the OPSU. Looks like it will be easier to get in and out in the future without breaking the POSU:
29. FAST fuel rail. Nice quality part
31. For those of you used to the stock LS1 throttle body and can't get your hand through, your arm goes in up to the elbow
30. FAST 102 LSXR. This thing is gorgeous in person, if you've never seen one.
FAST intake gaskets
33. FAST comes with all the hardware - including the button bolts for the valley cover. Really is a nice kit
34. Yella Terra extra thick valve cover gaskets to create extra space for the YT's
38. The 1.7 offset from the center indicates the newest generation of these rockers which fixed the strength issues from previous generations. This is how you tell them apart
39. YT's came with the pedestals, bolts, and shims. A very complete kit.
Other than the heads, the Johnson 2126 lifters are the highest quality part in appearance and feel that I have received. All the packing grease had already been washed out (smelled like turpentine), wheels spun free. They have a very solid feel that is hard to describe, but immediately identifiable as superior.
39. Johnson lifters - another fine packaging job.
40. Here are the lifters from the top as they are packed
44. Oil inlet for the plunger
41. Here is one pair of lifters with the link bar. Pics don't do them justice. They are very high quality pieces
07-22-2015, 05:43 PM
