MMS 220 Build for "Ghost Hawk"
I ended up bumping the starter and got pressure in 5 seconds. Had some lifter clatter for about two minutes. Quieted right down.
I had to turn the set screw a few turns to get it running. Then once I heard the cracker trying to learn idle I backed down the screw and she settled in at 850
The roughed in tune I did seems close. No fuel smell. Runs very steady. Not breaking 200 even with the fans off. Would probably be at 180 on the road with some air flow.
Still in SD for now. If I can figure out how to post a video I will.
Just kidding Tony. Still waiting on pushrods.
I took her for a test drive and the first red light I came to, when I took offi got this huge plume of smoke. Same thing at every light.
So I pull in a parking lot and rev the motor to see if it's oil gas or water and it's definitely oil. Pop the hood, and when I rev I get a bunch of smoke off the passenger side collector.
So I go to check the oil level, and no dip stick tube. I forgot it on reassembly. So when I rev, oil squirts out the dipstick hole and onto the headers.
Doh!
Throttle response is pretty damn good. I haven't gone past 3500 yet, but on the low end I know she's gained some torque.
Also, with the vacuum leaks corrected, she isn't bucking near as bad. Has a sharper, meatier sound to it as well.
So for now I think I need to get some miles on her and let her learn the trims, etc. waiting to hear back from the tuner on some roller time.
Had a cop pull in behind me during test driving and I just knew he was gonna nab me for something - loud, fumes, whatever, but he ended up leaving me alone.
So I'll keep posting as things develop. Staying in SD until I get the maf calibration done.
On cold start it is pig rich. I mean visible gas fumes making your eyes water spitting out the exhaust rich. Once it hits about 160, the fuel smell almost completely disappears. I'm not seeing anything wrong in the tune. I'm thinking to delay the injector timing. It's pretty early on low coolant temps.
Positive no vacuum leaks, but I will be double checking manifold bolt torque every few days cause I've read fasts tend to loosen up.
Whatever's going on, it's all cold start stuff. The cam even tames a bit once it reaches temp.
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On cold start it is pig rich. I mean visible gas fumes making your eyes water spitting out the exhaust rich. Once it hits about 160, the fuel smell almost completely disappears. I'm not seeing anything wrong in the tune. I'm thinking to delay the injector timing. It's pretty early on low coolant temps.
Positive no vacuum leaks, but I will be double checking manifold bolt torque every few days cause I've read fasts tend to loosen up.
Whatever's going on, it's all cold start stuff. The cam even tames a bit once it reaches temp.
Oh and all cams cut up more when cold
I took her for a test drive and the first red light I came to, when I took offi got this huge plume of smoke. Same thing at every light.
So I pull in a parking lot and rev the motor to see if it's oil gas or water and it's definitely oil. Pop the hood, and when I rev I get a bunch of smoke off the passenger side collector.
So I go to check the oil level, and no dip stick tube. I forgot it on reassembly. So when I rev, oil squirts out the dipstick hole and onto the headers.
Doh!
Hopefully it wasn't to much of a mess. Congrats on the startup.
Kidding. I'm trying to get with the tuner this week. I'm thinking it'll end up being Saturday morning, so we can have the dyno pretty much to ourselves. My impression right now is partial throttle pulls from 2000 to 5000 in second gear feel about like full throttle 3500-6500 used to feel. But the calibration on the butt dyno is out of date a bit, so I can't rely on it too much....
Oh and all cams cut up more when cold

To be honest, I kind of like the way it chops cold, but I think I can tune that chop into the warm cam with some ignition retard at idle.
I know the MAF isn't calibrated, but I'm thinking to hook it up and see how it starts up, etc. It might be that the cold start SD tune is the issue. I'm just afraid it'll run lean, because all the readings off the old MAF are calibrated to a much smaller opening, therefore less air, which might put me lean until the trims learn themselves. I'll be reading up on tunes today to see if I can find the few settings I need to get some of this stuff ironed out.
Still, see previous post. Even with all this stuff wrong, it pulls incredibly well. I think when I get the tune right, what I'll really notice is throttle response.
I have the LS6 PCV, and I used thread sealer on the rocker bolts, so it's catch can time. I started a thread on it before and never bought it because I got so enthralled with the build. I'm gonna go mighty mouse.
I'll be doing the same, using my previous tune to get me close. Hopefully it will work out lol.
I'll be doing the same, using my previous tune to get me close. Hopefully it will work out lol.
Yeah, I was originally planning to put in a catch can during the build, but I got so excited to get the build done. And then all hell broke loose at home. Lost the upstairs AC (115-120 day time temps), daughter got in a wreck in the S10 in my sig, lost the downstairs AC (picked a record setting heat day to crap out), and a rock went through our back double-paned patio door - all while I was waiting for the crossover tube.

Everything is fine now. On the S10, she was rear-ended, so it was the other driver's fault. Since I make steel for a living, I have access to billets, which I used to reinforce the frame of the S10 for the LS2. A billet is 5"x5" piece of solid cast steel of undetermined length. The 3' billet crop I installed weighs 280 pounds. So, the car that hit the truck hit the billet I had under the rear bumper between the frame rails. Completely totaled out her brand new car. I've got a scratch under the rear tail light.
So, bottom line, I never ordered the can. I'll get to it though.
Tightening the intake helped quite a bit. I took it out for a drive, and the fast idle isn't as high as it was relative to the dead stop idle speed.
I'm glad I do my own tuning and have a wideband. I got my stroker and new cam dialed in pretty quickly. Like said though with a big overlap you are going to have some gas running through in idle regardless. The breather is ideally to let fresh air in not out. The MM PCV can is still the way to go, even of you have a breather on the valve cover. It would be between the ls6 valley cover/opposite valve cover and the intake.
A breather on the valve cover is only suggested of you are running speed density and/or the engine vacuum is not connected to the PCV system. A breather will allow unmetered air into the engine like a vacuum leak.








