Metal on drain plug after cam install
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Metal on drain plug after cam install
So just finished my heads and cam build. I fired the car Monday and found my mail order base tune had the wrong injector size in it. So as a preventative measure I changed the oil before firing it up again. This time with the right tune. When I pulled the drain plug I was surprised to see metal mush ( can't think of a better term) on the magnet. Seemed like a lot for only running for 5 min! It also looked like the oil was dirty with a bit of shine to it. Scared me to say the least! I fired it up after refilling it and thing runs good and is dead quiet! Took forever to get the pushrods length right! I had the pan off when I did the build on a stand and cleaned everything. This is including the drain plug. My question, is this mush normal for break in? Car is a 60k car and ran perfect prior. I wouldn't say it was more than normal for a 3000 mile oil change but this was after 5 min. Any prior experience is greatly appreciated! Build consisted of prc heads, cam motion custom cam, Johnson lifters, fast 92, comp trunnions upgrade. ( another side note I would recommend cleaning the comp bearings to anyone that is using them prior to assembly. Found that the packing grease/oil is working its way out) found this as I pulled a valve cover due to a leak and found little black grease spots in the oil. In future I would clean, assemble, and then soak in oil. Can't see it being harmful but it was something I noticed.
#2
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Did I miss it or did you say that you did or did not replace the cam bearings? If you installed new bearings, you may get some very fine material due to seating in. If you didn't install new bearings it could be the new cam has a different wear pattern than the worn bearings and again, they are seating in. You may be ok. I would check the plug in a hundred miles or so and keep my eye on it to see if it cleans up any.
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Reused the factory cam bearings. There are a lot of new moving parts lifters, cam, rocker arm trunnions. Hoping that's it. I'll drop the oil again before I drive it and see. Another thing I didn't think off is I started the car with a bad base tune. The runner didn't change the injector size in the file so I was dumping a ton of fuel in it for 5 min before I figured it out. I wouldn't imagine it was oiling the cylinder walls well. Could be a little bit there. I don't think there is anything wrong but just a little worried as I am a perfectionist and have a ton of money in this thing!
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Please explain more. This thing now has like 40 min run time on it. I am going to change the oil again prior to taking it off the jack stands. I can fix it at this point as it hasn't ran long enough. Your link didnt work for me. I had a cam in the car prior so unless the cam is cut wrong that doesn't make sense. It is also a heavily oiled passage at this point??? thanks
Matt
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#8
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The link works fine. If u changed the cam, especially on stock engines, its whats called cam retainer plate wear, If the Mod was not done, then this could be the culprit. It grinds metal shavings from the top where the cam sits into the oil pan. The cam is rubbing against the plate, if not oiled properly. The retainer plate has to be moddified in order for it to work properly, but cutting or splice the 3 ends to get lubed by oil.
#10
He talking about the cam sprocket wearing into the cam retainer plate. The only way to know if its a problem is to remove the sprocket and look. I can see how if something was machined wrong it could happen but I'd say its a long shot its your trouble.
#12
No the sprocket has a thrust surface that contacts the outside of the retainer plate. they cut the notches to let oil get between the plate and sprocket. It makes sense if there isn't enough clearance oil may not get in there to proper lube it. Is it the OP's trouble? I kinda doubt it but ANYTHING is possible.
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that wouldnt be my issue as i am running the rollermaster timing chain with torrington bearing. So i should be good. i changed the oil today and there was alot less mush on the drain plug. I still have a shine in the oil that looks like its very small ( less than the tip of a pen flakes). Not really sure where to go from here. Motor doesnt make any noise! quite as can be. I am running rottela T 10w30 for the first 500 miles as i was told there is higher zinc additives that help break in new parts ( from a local engine builder). The shine isnt anything floating on the top or sinking to the bottom. Its just consistant in the oil. I plan to cut open the filter tomorrow. There isnt anything large or even sliver sized that i can see. I am going to put a couple hundred miles on it and see where it is. Not sure if i am being over cautious or if there is really something wrong. is it possible that its just normal break in wear? I turned this thing over by hand and there was zero drag or noise. I put lucas oil stabilizer all over everthing for assembly lube. Its a cammotion grind so i cant see that being the problem. I bought nothing but high quality parts Johnson lifters, Cammotion cam on their highest end core, PRC heads, GM Gaskets, Manton Pushrods. another note is the shine as i am calling it doesnt stick to a magnet so its not steel. Frustrating and probably wasting everyones time. I'll try and take a pick of the drain pan tomorrow. Thanks for everyones help!
#14
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I'm going through the same thing right now. New cam and valve train parts and my oil had a shine and drain plug had a bunch of mush.
I'm gonna keep running it because screw it, the motor runs too good.
Realiscly, let's say you rip the motor apart. Even if you find the cause of the metal, ur going to be doing rings and bearings anyways just because it's apart.
I'm gonna keep running it because screw it, the motor runs too good.
Realiscly, let's say you rip the motor apart. Even if you find the cause of the metal, ur going to be doing rings and bearings anyways just because it's apart.
#15
Hows your oil pressure?
I usually get a lot of graphite/ gray colored oil in the consistency of almost a light paste, very subtle grainy feeling when rubbed with the fingers. I was told that this is usually dirt particles and a result of break in lube
I usually get a lot of graphite/ gray colored oil in the consistency of almost a light paste, very subtle grainy feeling when rubbed with the fingers. I was told that this is usually dirt particles and a result of break in lube
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oil pressure is good. 40 psi hot and 65 cold. That would be a good way to describe it. Some of the flake as i described it is goldish in color but the gray like graphite is also consistent. I am gonna run it for a bit. The only thing i can think would be a cam bearing but they all looked good when i pulled the old cam. it had no abnormal wear either. Frustrating.
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i would agree. it just doesnt make any sense. the old cam had like 10k on it and ran and looked fine. Now i have sparkles in the oil. I am gonna put 100 miles on it and drain it again. If its still there looks like its coming apart.
#19
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oil willl make metal look gold because of its color so you have to be sure they're really gold flakes and not just looing that way because they're in the oil. there will always be some metal glint in the oil when its drained. if the oil is pitch blac it will be much harder to see but if you change the oil early as you did and its still clear its a lot more noticeable. I wouldnt worry as long as everything looks and sounds good just keep an eye on it
#20
If u cut open ur filter and it looks like this or if you have gold flakes like this in your oil, i would advise you to tear it down, if you dont have anything like that then youre good to go