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Also, before I pulled the heads I blew compressed air into the coolant crossover and into the water pump inlet/outlets. This made a bit of a mess, but I was able to catch most of it. When I pulled the heads I left all the bolts in by a few turns and lifted the heads 1/4" - 1/2" -- Only about 2-3 cups of coolant came out from the rear of the heads. Once they were done draining, I removed the bolts and pulled the heads. There was only an ounce or two of coolant in #7 and #8 cylinders and I didn't immediately see any coolant in the bolt holes. I'm still going to thoroughly clean the bolt holes, but I was thinking removing the heads this way would help me a get a head start.
The best and easiest way to get the coolant out of the bolt holes is to tape a straw that will fit in bolt holes to the shop vac hose so you are only sucking through straw. I had all my holes coolant free in 5 minutes. I then put a q-tip down holes to make sure they were dry.
Yeah, I'm going to thoroughly clean the bolt holes. A few of the TTY bolts had a hard time coming out of the block, so I went ahead and ordered the ARP thread cleaner for good measure. I was planning on using an old bolt, but I figured this was cheap insurance.
This is my plan for cleaning the block--
Completely block off the lifter openings and tape them so no debris can find its way down there. Then put rags in the cylinder bores and tape them off, as well. I will scrape the big stuff off with a razor blade and clean up with carb cleaner. If there is anything I can't get off, I will wet sand with 400 grit on a sanding block with WD40.
The sanding part scares me, but I have seen a lot of people do it with good results. I know the cometics require a really good block surface, so hopefully this will help me achieve that.
Yeah, I'm going to thoroughly clean the bolt holes. A few of the TTY bolts had a hard time coming out of the block, so I went ahead and ordered the ARP thread cleaner for good measure. I was planning on using an old bolt, but I figured this was cheap insurance.
This is my plan for cleaning the block--
Completely block off the lifter openings and tape them so no debris can find its way down there. Then put rags in the cylinder bores and tape them off, as well. I will scrape the big stuff off with a razor blade and clean up with carb cleaner. If there is anything I can't get off, I will wet sand with 400 grit on a sanding block with WD40.
The sanding part scares me, but I have seen a lot of people do it with good results. I know the cometics require a really good block surface, so hopefully this will help me achieve that.
Be careful with the razor blade. Aluminum is really soft. It is very easy to gouge.
Well, I spent the day cleaning graphite head gasket gunk off the block. Wasn't a lot of fun. Transmission dipstick tube was in the way, so I just pulled it out. Apparently you should only do that after you drain the trans fluid.. I made a bit of a mess -- My girlfriend was not happy!
Also, plastic scrapers are bullshit. They don't do a damn thing. Gasket remover is also bullshit, but really takes the carbon off the pistons nicely, so it wasn't a total loss.
For the love of God, PLEASE tell me this is clean enough. I did not have a fun day.
Get the copper spray and lightly hit the Cometic gasket for insurance. Multiple light coats till the gasket is that copper gold color....you can let it dry an hour or a week before installing.....it never technically hardens but I would spray it shortly before you plan to install the heads. And make sure nothing you care about is within 10 feet of where your spraying.....that overspray settles and sticks to everything and its a bitch to remove.....ask me how I know!
The hairs on your arm will be upright and sticky when your done....LOL
ya you're not supposed to use it but I made the executive decision to use copper spray on mine and i'm glad I did lol good insurance. that deck looks great too.
Awesome, that's good news. Cleaning the old gasket **** off was one of the things I was dreading with this project.
I will definitely get the copper spray. I was on the fence about it, but since everyone recommended it, I'm just going to do it.
Next question is about motor mounts. I bought the prothane motor mounts, since I'm sure the stockers could be replaced, but when is the best and easiest time to swap them out? Should I wait for the transmission to come off first, or do it before I pull the trans? I'm thinking it's going to be a bigger pain in the *** than I originally thought.
I'm almost wondering if I should send the poly mounts back, and order the UMI solid aluminum mounts instead. They would be easier to install! Thoughts?
I haven't driven a car with solids so I cant comment there. But I can attest my prothanes have been on 2 motors for 5 years and have had no issues. Either way they still involve the same level of pain in the assness to put in lol just with the polys you have to drill out some rivets for the inserts.
I would think having the trans out would make things easier. With the headers out you have all the room in the world. If you have a cherry picker I would just unbolt everything with the trans off and lift the motor slightly, do your thing then just drop it back down.
I haven't driven a car with solids so I cant comment there. But I can attest my prothanes have been on 2 motors for 5 years and have had no issues. Either way they still involve the same level of pain in the assness to put in lol just with the polys you have to drill out some rivets for the inserts.
I would think having the trans out would make things easier. With the headers out you have all the room in the world. If you have a cherry picker I would just unbolt everything with the trans off and lift the motor slightly, do your thing then just drop it back down.
Yeah, that's what I was thinking, too, but I don't have a cherry picker.
Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
The main thing is the headers have to be out. There's an awesome sticky in the external section you should take time to read with tons of pictures.
Don't know how your undercarriage is configured as I have a GTO but I was able to put a board under the oil pan, unbolt the old mount, jack the engine up and get them out. It was harder removing as the stock studs were very long but my after-market poly (blue) RevShift ones went in easily. It just took a little jockeying of the engine to get it lined back up.
My engine has an Ingall's Stiffy torque shock on it so the two work in tandem to control engine movement. I've ridden in solid mounts. If you want to feel like your in full race all the time they work but you sacrifice in ride quality.
Just by looking at your engine bay i would change the motor mounts before you install the heads. I am sure that is your plans anyways.
Yes it is. When I was ordering all the parts, I threw in a set of motor mounts because I figured now would be he easiest time to do it. I just wasn't sure when the most ideal time to install them would be. Really wish I had a cherry picker...
Sounds good. I was hoping the solid mounts would be easier to install, but that's just me being lazy.
The hardest part will be lining up the bolt holes to the mount and the pedestal. Up to that point it isn't that bad. After that point it is t that bad.
10-13-2015, 06:59 AM
