When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I run the big B&M Trans cooler with a fan, and so far its doing well. My temps don't go over 180 degrees. It's mounted under the gas tank in the rear of the car.
I have my fan on a switch, so when it's cold I don't run it, I wait for it to hit 125 degrees first.
I was thinking about going with the deep pan, I just didn't want to give up the ground clearance for it.
Can't wait to see the rest of your build. I was really regretting my decision to stick with my 346" when you posted. I'm really happy with it now, but I'm sure I'd be more happy with a Mamo 416!
Do you have the part number for that cooler on hand? That sounds like what I'm after.
I don't know that I *need* a deep pan, but I also didn't *need* the majority of the other things I've bought either lol
Just curious, What could have possibly sparked the decision for MSD coils?
Those aren't actually mine. I think Tony just keeps a set of MSDs on hand for dynos and bling bling for pictures. I'll be using some new coils that he recently started selling. I don't know all the ins and outs, but I needed new coils and they look like a very nice piece.
Those aren't actually mine. I think Tony just keeps a set of MSDs on hand for dynos and bling bling for pictures. I'll be using some new coils that he recently started selling. I don't know all the ins and outs, but I needed new coils and they look like a very nice piece.
Are they LS3 style coils? I might have to ask Tony about them. I'm wanting to upgrade my coils to get better valve covers..
As one can and should expect when it comes to cars, it never gets done on time. Between a couple trips to Florida and the harvest season rolling in, I've been too busy to finish the car yet. But I have spent the past couple nights doing a little tinkering. A friend who is seemingly more anxious than I am to see the car run came to help every night, along with my girlfriend being there to supervise and complain about the heat, bugs, how I smell, etc. The sticky said the last step was taking a picture standing in the bay and I won't deny the OP of that thread their credit for the help either lol
Not much to do for a week or so except wait. I have some other things to take care of and a few knick knacks left to order, mainly the lift plate I'd like to have for this and future builds. But it won't be long now, friends.
I'm not much further than I was in my last post. Harvest season hit and I've been slammed on the farm. Haven't really wanted to do much mechanic work on the car since I already spend a few hours a day fixing farm equipment. I have gone through and carefully cleaned everything from the old motor that I'm transferring to the new. Accessories, sensors, lines, etc. Cant be putting hubcaps on a Ferrari! That in addition to the retarded high humidity this summer has slowed progress. But it's cooling off now and as soon as things slow down at work I'll get it slapped back together. I hate myself for not having it done already lol
Question for you guys. I'm finally getting time to finish the car, but I've realized I need a better radiator. One of my only mental hiccups in this project, fortunately lol. I decided to spend the coin on a Be Cool. However, being an auto with an external trans cooler, I'm not sure if I need 62028, which is the auto trans version wth an internal cooler, or I can get by with 60028, the manual trans version without it. There seems to be a 50/50 split on people who say to run the internal cooler in series or not use it at all.
There's over $100 difference between the two and ideally I'd not waste the extra hundo if I won't be utilizing the extra cooler. I'm in Missouri so I dont have extreme weather, but we do see temps from 0-100 degrees throughout the year. I won't be driviing it in heavy traffic or sitting at idle too much, nor will it be driven in less than perfect weather. Since I have a stall, it also shouldn't have a problem getting up to temperature, or being TOO cool either. That leads me to believe I won't really need the internal cooler also. If i opted to not use the internal cooler, I like the piece of mind from the fact that the fluids wouldn't mix and dispense garbage throughout everything in the event of catastrophic failure. So, lots of factors to consider that I have no previous experience with.
Anyone have advice?
Last edited by sawblade99Z; 10-22-2016 at 10:41 AM.
IMO the only real benefit to running it through the radiator is if you want the radiator to help warm the trans in cooler weather. I don't know if you plan on running the car in 0 degree weather but I agree with you, if you take it easy it should warm up fine with use on cold days.
I actually think the trans will run cooler overall if you do NOT run it through the radiator which I think is a plus. Depending on where your engines operating temp is that's basically where your trans will be. I like my trans a little cooler than the engine so it has room to warm up when I am beating on it or at the drag strip. If you have the trans cooler with the fan you can mount it anywhere and it should be good to go.
I definitely won't be driving it in anything less than probably a 50 degree day. I'd imagine traction will be too sketchy at that temp for much spirited driving anyway. I think I'm going to opt for the cheaper one w/o the cooler. I have a B&M without a fan (can't remember p/n. It's the most commonly used one on here) so I'm planning to mount it flat on the front side of the air dam toward the passenger side. "Dope style" I think it's called. Just going to have to experiment a little to get it to fit with the SSRA. I'll use my scan gauge to monitor temp for a while and adjust accordingly if necessary. Thanks!
I think that's a good plan. You might want to think of running a trans temp gauge. You could mount it in the glove box or center console. I didn't care about my heat vents so I mounted mine in the vent to the left of the steering wheel with an adapter from speed inc.
Yeah, the scan gauge is a temporary measure. I want to get the car mechanically done first, then I'll tackle the gauges when I refinish some of the interior. Trans temp, fix the stock dummy engine temp gauge to read accurately, and a probably a wideband.
If your running the bm 70274 I see no reason to buy the auto radiator for the internal cooler. That trans cooler is more than enough to keep the trans at the temps it need to be. Save yourself $100 there.
It's the 70264. I'm also running SSRA so I got the 64 for the fitment.
So what do you think with that in mind? I researched it a lot before buying to be sure it'd be enough, but I failed to factor in whether or not I'd run it in series or independently. I thought I'd be okay since my stall isn't a huge, loose one. And now this is just too much to think about for someone as inexperienced as I am lol
Ran into a small issue this last week...not going to name the sponsor until I have further interaction with them after the holiday. I don't want to hurt a reputation before things have been given a fair chance to be resolved.
Everything is on the k-member, ready to put the body back down and start reassembly. I figured I'd throw the headers on beforehand to avoid fighting them in later. So I opened the box and went to put the passenger side on. Nooooo way it's going. I wiggled it around a bit without progress and finally went and looked at the box. Under a few pieces of tape I could read "1 7/8 x 3 GTO". Sure enough. I looked at everything closer and they sent me the wrong ones.
SO these headers I ordered from a sponsor over a year ago have been sitting in my pile of parts, well past the return period, and now when I need them, they're the wrong ones. My blood boiled. I checked my online receipt and I was billed for the correct ones, along with a list of other f-body specific parts. So I called, and more or less was told to kick rocks because it's been so long. Which I realize and admitted that my order was long ago when I first called. However, these are not what I was billed for so it obviously wasn't a problem on my end. And you guys all know how common it is to stockpile parts and install all at once. I explained that to them also. I mean, they ARE still brand new with all labels, the box, shipping/billing info, etc intact. Despite the fact that it was after the return period, I really don't see why this couldn't be made right. It's not like I got cold feet and decided I didn't want them, or I ordered them wrong. The GTO headers are actually $150 more than the F-body set I paid for, so why wouldn't they want these back anyway? I just want the right ones, which doesn't seem like an unreasonable request to me. Given the lengths I've seen sponsors stretch to please members on here, this shouldn't be a big deal I wouldn't think.
They told me to send them pictures of "proof". I did and have yet to hear back. All of this happened on Tuesday, before Thanksgiving. It's now a holiday weekend so no big deal. I'll see what they say later on this next week. But if I haven't heard anything by then, I'm going to have to come up with another plan. This car needs to be together and out of the shop by next month and this sets me back quite a bit, with the typical wait time on Kooks headers, plus getting them coated...
To sum up, I should have taken them out when I got them and checked. That's true. I just assumed everything was fine since all the other stuff I ordered was right. It is my fault for not realizing the error a long time ago. My only complaint here is it seems there's an unwillingness to do anything just because they don't want to. I guess we will see here in a week or so.
I'll report back when I hear something. If it doesn't go as I hope, I'll have a brand new set of ceramic coated Kooks GTO headers for sale for whatever it costs to buy a comparable F-body set from a different shop.
Last edited by sawblade99Z; 11-26-2016 at 02:36 PM.
Reason: Forgot to mention when this began.
Man hopefully that will get resolved. And to answer your question on that cooler. It will be fine running it on it's own. From my understanding your 70264 and my 70274 are the same cooler OTHER than the way the fittings are. Mine is for 1/2 npt to run an lines and yours is for barbed fittings.
03-10-2016, 01:29 AM
