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Help, I have the incorrect ARP headbolts and a new set.
Edit: Mods please edit the title for better grammar. Should read Help, I have the incorrect ARP head bolts and need a new set.
Hey guys, I'm in the process of rebuilding my motor and have the short block back together. I had an 01 LS1 out of a Corvette previously with an ARP kit already installed. However I had to replace my block, ironically because it was cracked along a passage where the head stud used to go.
I bought a new block from summit racing, part number.... 12561166 it says it's for an 01-04 Corvette. However, I have found information stating that for the 04+ blocks the arp bolts required a different head bolt set.
On my old block my arp set of bolts per head had 5 of the m8 bolts x 47.5mm. 8 bolts M11 x 160mm and 2 bolts that were M11 x 103mm.
I measured how deep each bolt hole is, the M11 middle and lower rows are 111mm deep from the bolt head/washer surface. The M8 bolts are 55mm deep from the bolt head/washer surface. What set do I need to purchase? Thanks.
Last edited by tommypenguin; 10-26-2015 at 07:09 PM.
Sounds like you got the later block which is a LS6 block and would be the one I'd want and may be the only one available as it superseded the original one a long time ago. For one it should already be drilled for the LS2 chain damper. You need ARP 134-3610. The head studs IMHO are better as you're not grinding into aluminum and get a better torque. They are twice as much and is part# 234-4317. You should be able to sell your old ones.
I mean if you ordered a block you will most liekly get the new style since it was from 04-up. Nothing else changes just the bolt length does. So even if you sent it back you probably wouldnt get one with the correct staggered holes. Being that all your m11 bolts are one length you def need the newer style bolt kit. I used arp bolts with great success but studs are always nice if you have the cin
What numbers are on the block? Did you do any work to it yet?
It sounds to me that you've received the later block which Summit should correct-unless you did stuff to it.
Originally Posted by Paul Bell
What numbers are on the block? Did you do any work to it yet?
It sounds to me that you've received the later block which Summit should correct-unless you did stuff to it.
The number on the block is 60572.
Originally Posted by svede1212
Sounds like you got the later block which is a LS6 block and would be the one I'd want and may be the only one available as it superseded the original one a long time ago. For one it should already be drilled for the LS2 chain damper. You need ARP 134-3610. The head studs IMHO are better as you're not grinding into aluminum and get a better torque. They are twice as much and is part# 234-4317. You should be able to sell your old ones.
I didn't think there were any differences between blocks till noticing the issues with my heads. I checked every bolt hole on the rear before putting the cover on but I just reviewed my pics and can see two bolt holes between the cam gear and crank sprocket, crap. I have to install the dampener since it's drilled for it or I won't make oil pressure? Got a part number on the dampener, is there a gasket? I purchased a brand new C7R chain? Going to have to get a new front crank seal and front timing cover gasket since they have been torqued down. I have not done any research on a chain dampener, forgive my ignorance.
Found this on TSP but it says it's not for an LS1/LS6...
I mean if you ordered a block you will most likely get the new style since it was from 04-up. Nothing else changes just the bolt length does. So even if you sent it back you probably wouldnt get one with the correct staggered holes. Being that all your m11 bolts are one length you def need the newer style bolt kit. I used arp bolts with great success but studs are always nice if you have the cin
My budget is tight right now or I would go with studs, going to have to go with bolts.
Last edited by tommypenguin; 10-26-2015 at 08:42 PM.
It's looking like the chain dampener I need maybe a hard to locate item.
Do I need this part? Can someone give me the technical answer of what it does that my old engine did not? Could I install a couple bolts in the holes instead? Thanks again guys, extremely grateful to be catching this now and not after the block was put in the car.
A chain dampener is usually not needed-but nice to have. Not having it will NOT affect the oiling system or oil pressure. Did your original block have one?
Pretty sure all the LS engine dampers are identical with regards to bolt pattern. But at any rate you can get a LS6 damper off rockauto.com for pretty cheap as well.
My original block did not have it. Looks like I'm going to have to pay a king's ransom and order from katech given they only made the dampener for one year and it's discontinued from what I'm reading. I will pull the front timing cover tomorrow and measure the bolt hole distance to confirm that I need the rare LS1 version.
Would you guys order a new front timing cover and crank seal while you're at it? They the front timing cover and seal were torqued to spec once for about 12 hours
I'm not racing, or reving beyond 6500rpm ever. Though it is for a supercharged application.
You would pull the cover, pop a couple bolts with thread locker in there, put some high temp gasket maker back in the corners and reinstall front cover gasket/seal? Thanks again.
Last edited by tommypenguin; 10-27-2015 at 04:11 AM.
if my block had the provision I would run one but thats just me. The ls6 damper is special the ls2 one doesnt fit.if you look around you can find modded ls2 dampers made to fit the ls1 bolt holes fr pretty cheap.
I just pulled the front timing cover and measured the bolt hole centers, they are 1.7" apart. According to my research the original beige dampener had the bolt hole centers drill 2.1" apart. The new LS2 dampener bolt holes are drill 1.7" apart.
It appears I can order an LS2 dampener and throw it on. My alternative was to use a couple extra m8 x 24mm bolts in the holes and use a thick washer. There is 24.53mm from face of block to till hitting a counter weight while the crankshaft spins.
Just found a pic from corvetteforum and notice that the block drill holes and the area around it look different than mine, the guy who posted it had modified an ls2 dampener to fit and use a center punch to mark the bolt hole centers, you can see them in the pic. So far for late model block I have the head bolts have been drilled more shallow, added drill holes for dampener and also the valley cover bolts are drill 3mm shorter. The valley cover bolts will still fit with the cover on but not using my thinner valley cover to lift the engine without using washers. I ended up stripping a valley cover bolt hole before noticing that issue, had to re-tap.
Last edited by tommypenguin; 10-27-2015 at 07:34 AM.
Went ahead and ordered it for 14$. will have it in a couple days, also ordered the new head stud kit. I'll get my old head stud kit up for sale after the motor is back in the car.
I got the dampener installed it at 18ft/lbs with blue loctite. I am running a brand new C7R chain. While rotating the crank by hand, the chain is making contact with the dampener. Is this normal? I would only expect it to make contact from high rpm decel, given the way it looks I'm worried about plastic shavings ending up in my oil pan. From what I gather at looking at other threads, the slack in the chain seems normal. Thanks again. Below are some pics and a video of me turning the crank by hand is coming soon.
Looks fine to me. Mine was like that and after a year when I had it apart the last few weeks nothing looked bad. With oil on it there really didn't seem to be any wear.
Thanks. I did some reading and found that when the engine is running, the chain is moving so quickly it doesn't touch the dampener. I went and head, put everything back together, got the heads assembled and on the car. Long block is put back together. On saturday I will double check to make sure my oil pan/block alignment is good to go by mounting the bell housing to it. I used a straight edge so I should be. Then I'll put the flywheel and clutch on and should be ready to put the engine back in my car.
10-26-2015, 06:43 PM
Help, I have the incorrect ARP headbolts and a new set. 
