07NBSChevy

iTrader: (1)

So my buddy is gonna get rid of his 2004 Torch Red C5Z with Red/Black interior and body side molding package that I have been wanting for the past 5 years, It has 59k miles on it. The only thing is that the motor is done for, it is completely stock but we think the oil pump pickup tube O-ring or oil pump failed and fried the motor. The heads are off and the bores appear to be good. Now this will be a street car but will see the track often. I would like to keep the max lift on the cam at or under .600/.600 for proper valve train geometry and reliability. Rev limiter will be set around 6800-7k, the end goal is to achieve 450+ RWHP out of the car and still be streetable for a daily. I am getting such a good deal on the car I can put some money into the motor. I know I can go with a bigger motor and what not but I would prefer to stay with the stock LS6 and punch it to the max N/A and no N20. Now my buddy works at a local speed shop and I can get most if not all these parts at wholesale prices.

So the plan is, once I buy it, is to do Forged internals, H/C/I and full exhaust. I will be doing a slight overbore to make sure cylinder walls are fine. All bearings seem to be toast along with the crank.

Bottom end:
(Wiseco 3.905" -3.2cc flat top pistons, K1 6.125" billet H-beam rods with ARP 2000 rod bolts, K1 3.622" forged crank with LME billet 24x reluctor wheel) all from BTR. ARP Main Studs, Clevite H-Series rod bearings, Clevite Coated H-Series main bearings, DuraBond CHP-25T cam bearings, TSP ported oil pump, DM Performance stainless steel main girdle.

*This is where I am undecided and need opinions.*
Heads, Intake and Valve Train:
ARP head studs, GM .051" MLS gasket or Cometic 4.125" .040", AFR 215cc heads (65cc Chamber, 2.020"/1.600" I/E Valves), LSXR 102mm intake with fuel rails and other supporting items, Nick Williams Performance DBW 102mm Throttle body, FAST Precision Flow 36 lb/hr Injectors, GM LS7 lifters, TSP Torquer V2 232/234 .600/.600 112 LSA or TSP Magic Stick 3 238/242 .600/.600 112 LSA, BTR trunion upgraded Stock rocker arms, Pac 1206's or BTR .660 Dual Spring kit with Titanium Retainers, BTR Pushrods.

Exhaust, Clucth, rear gears and other things
ARH 1-7/8"x3" with 3"x3" X-pipe into a 3" Stainless Works quad tip axle back , McLeod RXT Clutch, stock 3.42 gears, Underdrive pulley.

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

With expense of a forged rotating assembly and considering a 238/242 side cam I would reconsider a stroker crank for more cubes unless the 5.7 displacement is class racing related. Likewise, if not stroker crank at least an LS2 block for bigger bore and a few more cubes.

I'd consider Morel lifters for your application over the LS7s. Thicker 3/8 push rods too.

07NBSChevy

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the respone.

So maybe do a 3.905" bore with a 4" stroke. Price is the same between the 3.622 and 4" stroke so not a bad idea. That would be a 383.

SCott5

iTrader: (40)

IMO

Grab the 4in crank if you want some more tq but I prefer the stock strokes in my builds, and if you decide to use the stock stroke, I wouldn't even get an aftermarket crank as he stock crank is known for big power. That will save you some money to put in other areas that the z will need it.

As far as heads I would grab the new MMS 220s or MMS 235s with a match cam from Tony. These new heads setup with one of his cams and a fast 102 are making amazing power (more than your goal) with great linear powerbands.

I too would go with the Morels.

Tony sets his heads up with his own spring kits so I would leave that to him.

Also I would not do 4.10s in the Z with the gearing in the transmission the car is "like" a regular vette with a set of 3.90s. So again I would skip on that to save you some money.

With the extra cash I would do a nice shifter, Vararam B2 ram air, and pocket the rest of the cash for when something breaks lol

07NBSChevy

iTrader: (1)

The Stock crank is toast, that is why I decided on the forged one. A tad more than a replacement for the LS6. I would honestly like to stay at a 3.622" stroke crank with a 3.905" bore as well. Should I stay with the stock 3.42 gears then?

I will look into the morel lifters

I also looked into Lunati Signature Series LS1/LS6 Linkbar Hydraulic Roller lifters since they are cheaper than Morel, $800.00 for a set of 16 instead of $1,200.00 for Morel , Lunati makes Morel lifters from what I was told.

SCott5

iTrader: (40)

Yes stay with stock gears. Call tony namo

07NBSChevy

iTrader: (1)

Will do, I will see what he says.

Do you think 220 or 235's heads will be to large for the engine?

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

220 is perfect for any of the 3.9 bore engines. 235 better for 400+

NAVYBLUE210

Your combo was just completed and dynoed by KLRZ!
MMS 220s are the perfect heads for sub 4.00" Bore.
235s need 4.00" Bore Minimum! You.can reach 450-475
RWHP with 227/231 cam and great driving manners
Paying close attention to the details. Add Tonys
Special dual disc RPS BC Lightend Clutch and shoot for
490-500 RWHP still with a small cam. 3.42s will be perfect
In your light car and no need for the 4.00" stroke IMHO.
Talk with Tony about your goals you will be more than
Pleased!

07NBSChevy

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like this Tony guy is the guy to call. I will give him a call Monday. I would love to have a 575-600 Crank HP 346 Ci LS6 in a 3100lb car. Would be a nice 10.8 Second daily

FourG63 97GST

iTrader: (1)

just to get this clear, this is a forged N/A build? and a scale of 1-10, how much do you care about power? so far it sounds overkill, in the $7-10k range for 450hp. I find n/a builds financially hard to digest.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

I would suggest the 4" crank. Simply put, the increase in displacement will retain better street manners without sacrificing power. Plus, you won't have to spin the engine as high to make the power, so it will be more reliable too.

I'm pretty sure it's the other way around. Morel makes lifters for Lunati. You may be going overkill here. Morel makes very nice lifters but you're likely going to be paying for features that you don't need. I think you'd be fine with some LS7 lifters or even the Morel 5315 lifters.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

Also, have you considered any of the "As Cast" heads out there? TFS has a great 220cc head that BTR sells with a little additional hand blending, which has consistently put down 500whp on stock bottom end LS2 cars. Tony also just came out with a MMS 223cc head which is also hand finished. Since you're using the stock rockers, you may want to consider loading either with powdered metal guides.

Either head is about $2200 depending on the options.

SCott5

iTrader: (40)

223cc, that's the head that I meant to say earlier not the 235.. Doh. Brain fart

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

No reason to forge an n/a motor at that power level. Use gen4 rods and hyper pistons and put the money into oil control/valvetrain.

FourG63 97GST

iTrader: (1)

wouldn't do the RXT either, RST has more manners with the full face disk, if streetibility is your concern. stock fuel rails will handle 1000+ on gasoline, and so will stock crank.
Stock GenIV rods will hold 750+, dont know why you'll not go with a flat piston if you're n/a vs lowering compression with a dished. especially with a mild .600 lift cam.
If you want reliability, keep as oem as possible. a mild head/cam setup will make 450whp on a C5Z on stock LS6 intake manifold, even a Cam only C5Z will do it, if you add a Fast 92/92 and you can tolerate a more aggressive cam grind. Don't think the 102 will fit without lowered engine mounts.

07NBSChevy

iTrader: (1)

Update this will be a complete N/A weekend driver that will see that track and want to stick with stock stroke. HP is not the most important but would like 450+ WHP. 5 years ago I had a stock 02 C5Z and had it dyno at 355WHP so I figure with heads and cam It can push 420WHP easy. I do not plan on pushing it over 6800-7000RPM. I have thought about Pro Chargers and what not but just that alone will cost 7 grand.

I did say Flat top pistons, So if forged is not intended I can stick with OEM, I would like the to save as much as possible but have it done right without skimping on little stuff. If I can get away with stock intake even better. It definitely needs a rotating assembly ( At least crank, its scored the journals pretty bad with 0 oil psi ) since its done for. Best recommendations on crank rods and pistons? Obviously Flat tops. I still have yet to contact Mamo, work has been crazy. I am dead set on staying with the stock stroke and kinda go for a "Max Effort" engine. I will need to do a small overbore or at least have the block checked for damage.

OK so the for sure stuff is either Pac 1204x Dual Springs/BTR .660 Platinums with Titanium Reatiners, BTR trunion upgrade, LS6 ported oil pump, Clevite H-Series rod bearings, Clevite Coated H-Series main bearings, DuraBond CHP-25T cam bearings, DM Performance Girdle (I have one so might as well use it), ARP Head studs, Main Studs, rod bolts.

I know since this will still be a lS6 without boost or N20 as cast or CNC heads dont matter, I have thought about having PRC doing some work on it. I would like to keep the stock lightweight valves as well.

I need to figure out a internals, cam, heads, and some intake, clutch, lifters.

SCott5

iTrader: (40)

So what exactly are you looking at? A max effort no budget build or a nice decent budget build? You want all new parts or you okay with used? if your not on a certain budget I would call Tony and tell him what you want. I bet he would grind you a cam, his 220s and a fast 92/90 setup that he had mamofied. If you are now looking at more budget minded.
Stock crank off here for $100 (since your going to take it to machine shop anyways)
Gen IV rods off here $200 6.098 or set of Compstar/Scat 6.125 rods
Weisco flat tops for which rods you decide on.
Send your 243s to AI
FAST 92 with a LS2 TB since your staying NA
Street sweeper cam from ED Curtis
Morel 5315 drop ins
Clutch I'd go with RST

07NBSChevy

iTrader: (1)

My budget is still the same. I willl contact Mamo when I have a chance today, i want the most potential out of a stock stroke engine but still be streetable. I dont care if it needs forged internals or will work with stock.

Now will 6.125 change anything compared to 6.098 rods? I will just need the correct pistons for each rod right?

We will see what Momo says.

whatsa347

iTrader: (6)

Tooley touched 220's with a streetsweeper seems to be a nice combo, no PTV issues, can run a nice compression, makes great power, drives nice. A guy on here had this combo, made stupid numbers.