Ls1 block advice Hi all I'm new to the forums and am seeking some advice from the community. I purchased a 2001 Trans Am about a year and a half ago and early this spring ended up having a loud taping noise coming from the motor. I decided to try and get it taken care of right away so I could enjoy it for the summer (live up north). Anyways it turned out that my cam had a chunk taken out of the top of a lobe and after removing the cam found out that the front cam bearing had spun and was gouged up (bearing actually spun so far back the oil gallery was completely exposed...explains my 15-20 psi hot oil pressure i suppose.) I ended up finally getting the block out and bringing to my engine builder to handle it. He later called and told me the block was a reman and the machine shop told him it had been bored out 20 over already. (Im aware that ls1's cant really be bored much at all) So basically my question is will the block hold up to just bolt-ons and a gm hot cam for very long because I already have some money in machine work (cam bearings and a hone so far) or should i scrap it and go with something else. Also i put approximately 7000 miles on the car when i bought it before the tapping started and was told my pistons are also shot the last I talked to him. My budget is pretty tight and I just want something that runs so I planned on just a stock bottom end rebuild until I had the money to have something else built. He's giving me a good deal on the rebuild because hes getting his business started up. He worked at a dyno shop in Omaha until he left to work for himself so I trust him to do the work. Thanks everyone for any replies |
Originally Posted by PDM94
(Post 19312072)
Hi all I'm new to the forums and am seeking some advice from the community. I purchased a 2001 Trans Am about a year and a half ago and early this spring ended up having a loud taping noise coming from the motor. I decided to try and get it taken care of right away so I could enjoy it for the summer (live up north). Anyways it turned out that my cam had a chunk taken out of the top of a lobe and after removing the cam found out that the front cam bearing had spun and was gouged up (bearing actually spun so far back the oil gallery was completely exposed...explains my 15-20 psi hot oil pressure i suppose.) I ended up finally getting the block out and bringing to my engine builder to handle it. He later called and told me the block was a reman and the machine shop told him it had been bored out 20 over already. (Im aware that ls1's cant really be bored much at all) So basically my question is will the block hold up to just bolt-ons and a gm hot cam for very long because I already have some money in machine work (cam bearings and a hone so far) or should i scrap it and go with something else. Also i put approximately 7000 miles on the car when i bought it before the tapping started and was told my pistons are also shot the last I talked to him. My budget is pretty tight and I just want something that runs so I planned on just a stock bottom end rebuild until I had the money to have something else built. He's giving me a good deal on the rebuild because hes getting his business started up. He worked at a dyno shop in Omaha until he left to work for himself so I trust him to do the work. Thanks everyone for any replies You might be better off finding a low mileage shortblock. They can be had for $500-$1000 depending on mileage. I just sold a complete 2001 ls1 for $1,300 for reference |
Originally Posted by Burken01
(Post 19312078)
If the block is 20 over then I would find another one. Not worth the risk You might be better off finding a low mileage shortblock. They can be had for $500-$1000 depending on mileage. I just sold a complete 2001 ls1 for $1,300 for reference Ya that is what I have been thinking is going to be the better option. Unfortunately there is not a whole lot to chose from for LS1 blocks around here unless they need a rebuild also |
Originally Posted by PDM94
(Post 19312090)
Ya that is what I have been thinking is going to be the better option. Unfortunately there is not a whole lot to chose from for LS1 blocks around here unless they need a rebuild also Most shipping places like I use charge $150-$200 to ship something like a shortblock. Just food for thought |
Originally Posted by Burken01
(Post 19312103)
You could get one shipped directly to you.. What is your budget? Most shipping places like I use charge $150-$200 to ship something like a shortblock. Just food for thought |
I have read in a SA design book that you should only bore a stock aluminium block to a max of 0.005". So your already 0.015" over that. I'm new to LS too, but could you sleve the holes? There are several engines that we do this to commonly at our diesel shop. I realize this is not a diesel. And if it could be done then you have to look at cost because it's probably more expensive than getting a replacement unless you own a machine shop. But if it could be done it would be cool to press in some 4.1" or 4.25" sleves... You would have a monster. |
Originally Posted by Duzzi
(Post 19314447)
I have read in a SA design book that you should only bore a stock aluminium block to a max of 0.005". So your already 0.015" over that. I'm new to LS too, but could you sleve the holes? There are several engines that we do this to commonly at our diesel shop. I realize this is not a diesel. And if it could be done then you have to look at cost because it's probably more expensive than getting a replacement unless you own a machine shop. But if it could be done it would be cool to press in some 4.1" or 4.25" sleves... You would have a monster. Like said in an earlier post I can also try and find a low mileage running LS1 and skip all the other headache. |
If it helps with the cost, any other gen 3 will swap in its place. 4.8/5.3/5.7/6.0. |
Originally Posted by Duzzi
(Post 19314447)
I have read in a SA design book that you should only bore a stock aluminium block to a max of 0.005". So your already 0.015" over that. I'm new to LS too, but could you sleve the holes? There are several engines that we do this to commonly at our diesel shop. I realize this is not a diesel. And if it could be done then you have to look at cost because it's probably more expensive than getting a replacement unless you own a machine shop. But if it could be done it would be cool to press in some 4.1" or 4.25" sleves... You would have a monster. But yeah, a 427 would be a good replacement. Thompson motorsports has iron shortblocks brand new right in your budget area I believe they are in the $1,900-$2,000 area.. Check them out |
Originally Posted by Burken01
(Post 19314498)
Sleeves are 2k for parts and labor, and he will need a new rotating assembly as well. As well as new heads for the 4.125"+ bore, new intake, new fuel system. List goes on lol But yeah, a 427 would be a good replacement. Thompson motorsports has iron shortblocks brand new right in your budget area I believe they are in the $1,900-$2,000 area.. Check them out |
Originally Posted by PDM94
(Post 19314546)
Ok I will take a look. I'm wondering if I should just go with a 6.0 so it leaves me room to grow in the future instead of spending anymore on the LS1 The reason the 6.0 is more popular is because it has a 4" bore and ls3 heads can be used with them, don't use this as the sole reason to go 6.0 though. It just comes down to what you want with the car. |
My ls1 is bored to 3.920. I make about 440 rwhp through a 4k stalled auto. Got around 3k miles on it so far with 0 issues. Probably 15 or 20 track passes. Sees at least 1 wot pull every time I drive it. It is balanced as well |
Originally Posted by madmike9396
(Post 19314609)
My ls1 is bored to 3.920. I make about 440 rwhp through a 4k stalled auto. Got around 3k miles on it so far with 0 issues. Probably 15 or 20 track passes. Sees at least 1 wot pull every time I drive it. It is balanced as well |
Originally Posted by madmike9396
(Post 19314609)
My ls1 is bored to 3.920. I make about 440 rwhp through a 4k stalled auto. Got around 3k miles on it so far with 0 issues. Probably 15 or 20 track passes. Sees at least 1 wot pull every time I drive it. It is balanced as well |
Originally Posted by Burken01
(Post 19314660)
Nice, however I wouldn't recommend it. Most shops won't either. Also I looked at the thompson blocks and the cheapest iron one i saw was still 2400. Maybe I was looking in the wrong place? |
Originally Posted by PDM94
(Post 19314724)
Im gonna talk to my engine builder and get his opinion on the issue aswell. He might have a good LS1 block laying around that can be used. Im not really in a position to gamble money on a rebuilt engine only to have the block possibly be ruined and have to do it again. Also I looked at the thompson blocks and the cheapest iron one i saw was still 2400. Maybe I was looking in the wrong place? |
Check out our 4th of July sale thread. We have 10% off of our motors until the 8th. Its a great time to buy, Even when you are in a pinch. Let us know if we can help you with your selection. Thank you, Kyle 972-853-2450 Thompson Motorsports |
Originally Posted by thompson
(Post 19314772)
Check out our 4th of July sale thread. We have 10% off of our motors until the 8th. Its a great time to buy, Even when you are in a pinch. Let us know if we can help you with your selection. Thank you, Kyle 972-853-2450 Thompson Motorsports |
You could always look at LKQ for a cut out from 500-1500 complete. Drop it in and ride |
Originally Posted by 2ToeRacing
(Post 19314873)
You could always look at LKQ for a cut out from 500-1500 complete. Drop it in and ride |
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:52 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands