busted33

iTrader: (5)

I've read a lot of threads on a few different sites and can't quite find anything hat fits my situation. I am building a 2000 Jeep Wrangler and th engine I am going with is the 408 LS based on my donor truck which is a 2002 Silverado 2500HD. The drivetrain will be the LQ4 based 408 through a 4L80E with a circle D 3200 stall. This will be followed by an NP242 transfer case from an H1 hummer. I have Dana 60 axles front and rear with air locked and 4:88 gears. I will be running 38" tires with steel H1 beadlock wheels (PVC inserts).

I want to be able to drive this chicle on the freeway to my heeling spots but my main applications are sand and mud.

For the engine this is what I have so far:

317 heads already at A.I. Getting the 232cc job with 2.055 intake valves.

Crank is a Scat 4340 4.000" stroke

Rods are Compstar 6.125"

Pistons are Diamond 10.7:1 CR with my heads

Intake is a TBSS and I'm thinking about the peak speed shop porting but haven't decided if it's necessary yet

TB is an eBay DBW 92mm version

I will need a lot of torque to get these tires moving in the mud and sand so a cam recommendation is needed. I already bought the Torquer V4 before I decided on the stroker route so if this makes sense that would be easy but I don't want to leave any power on the table since the engine is apart and I want to build it once.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

NAVYBLUE210

My best advice for what it is worth. Look at the CAM MOTION
Truck cams then call Kip and have him spec you a custom
Cam based on Exactly what you want! Pay a few dollars
More for the perfect cam.
I would have Peak Speed port you're TBSS Intake as well.

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

Agree on the truck cams from CM(and getting Kip's advice). In what RPM point are you realistically usually needing max torque? Cams like the Torquer series really do product a lot of torque, but they aren't going to product the off-idle, part-throttle torque you often need in 4x4 applications. My guess is that to get a cam that is right for your off-road situations, you'll end up with something relatively mild and end up giving up some high-RPM power.

If I were to have anyone port the intake, it would be Peak, but along with my small-ish cam comment, I think you might want to start with the intake stock to try to absolutely maximize low-end torque. The TBSS/NNBS intake really does flow surprisingly well for a stock intake.

DavidBoren

I think the TBSS intake should definitely be ported on a 400+ cubic inch motor. But it is not a bad choice for this application.

Call Martin Smallwood or Kip and get a custom cam on Cam Motion core (Martin uses Cam Motion cores).

Your absolute best bet to get that immediate torque would be to get some domed pistons and bump your compression to ~11.5:1, with .035" squish.

gametech

iTrader: (1)

Based on the advice so far in this thread, my advice is move to the yellowbullet forum and talk to serious people. This place is great for general newbie knowledge, but the specifics of your post indicate that you are in need of a bit more technically inclined info. Just be aware that they don't take kindly to spoonfeeding info over there.

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

No advice of your own but kick everyone else in the teeth? Bravo, sir. OP hasn't even come back to respond to the initial butt-sniffing round..what do you expect?

busted33

iTrader: (5)

I'm watching and I do appreciate the responses. Like recommended earlier I have talked to a couple of the cam guys including Advanced Inductions who are currently doing my heads. Based on the feedback for my application the recommendation is as follows:

235/240 IN/EX duration at 0.050 and 0.629/0.615 IN/EX lift

Since I need a lot of torque for this heavy azz drivetrain/tire/wheel combo this is the recommendation I have received from 2 of the reputable sponsors on this site.

Thanks for the feedback. I think this is the route Ill take

busted33

iTrader: (5)

Are you a peak speed stock holder or something? Can I mention your name and get a 25% off?

busted33

iTrader: (5)

Mercier, you look like you have already went the LS + wrangler route. What application do you use your Jeep for and what would you do different if you had the chance? Also how did you fit a T56 in a CJ? Is your rear axle sticking past the rear bumper?

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

That's more duration than I would have thought but the stall should get you into the power band so I suppose off-idle performance shouldn't matter as much. I'm not sure what kind of mud you are usually in and how deep. The sum of parts you have planned so far sounds like a fricken beast. As long as you aren't going to be in 3-4 feet of peanut butter, you'll probably be great. Otherwise, I could see this setup with such a stall and monster mid-range breaking a lot of shafts and associated parts. Even then, it'll be a fun ride right up until things go bang for sure.

Edit: With all that power and stall, make sure you run a big transmission fluid cooler and keep it high and clean. You won't know it's clogged with mud until your transmission overheats and eats itself. The HD trucks have a trans temp sensor/gauge stock that reads through the PCM. You should try to hook that up.

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

I sold my 2 Can-Am quads (lift, snorkels, 31s, etc.) to buy the Jeep to make a nice off-roader(which around here means serious mud) but when it came it was just too nice. I don't mean show truck exactly but no rust in any of the places almost all CJs rust. And clean in most of those places, too with decent paint. So this took a different turn to sleeper street Jeep.

About a million people told me T56 in a Jeep or truck of any kind was a bad idea so this of course made me want to do it more.

Drivetrain is out right now and a bit stalled while I do a "quick(HA!)" build on the V but the gist of it is a QuickTime scatter shield/bell, 2.95 1st, mid-shifted T56 Magnum with a C6 Vette(remember those have a transaxle) rear extension, bob-tail 27-spline output shaft coming out of a blank, round adapter flange for the Dana 300. The D300 is on my bench right now getting a full-on HD rebuild with Novak parts plus a 27-spline input and their super-short HD rear output. All told, it should only be about 6-8" longer than the SM465/D300 setup I just pulled out.

This round it is also getting a narrowed(factory CJ wide track) D60 with F250 discs and 4.88s. Saving my pennies for a TrueTrac before I finish building the diff...everything else is there giving me dirty looks of neglect. Might move the rear axle back a little but don't want to run a fuel cell just yet so wheelbase won't change much until next time. Sticking with 33s just because I feel like that's what a CJ looks most natural with and I like rowing gears.

Going to get it back together, do a few 4x4 burnouts until the front D30 goes nuclear, then figure out what to put there. This project has job security built-in, if you know what I mean?