6.0 Stroker, first spin, no oil pressure and a noise
11-06-2016, 03:57 PM
#1
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6.0 Stroker, first spin, no oil pressure and a noise FINALLY got everything together. Removed the fuel pump fuse and disconnected the coils. Spun it over several times for around 10 seconds each and still no oil pressure readng on the gauge. There has been a noise since the first rotation. The video shows what it sounds like.
The oil still appears clean but I'm feeling sick to my stomach due to no pressure and then the sound I'm hearing. What should I do now? I'm at a total loss...
Forgot to mention, if it even really matters, this is in a 2001 Z28/auto. It's a 6.0 with an Eagle stroker kit, Wiseco pistons and an LS3 topend. Just sbout everything under the hood is new or fresh. Rebuilt 4l60 with a Yank stall.
The oil still appears clean but I'm feeling sick to my stomach due to no pressure and then the sound I'm hearing. What should I do now? I'm at a total loss...
Forgot to mention, if it even really matters, this is in a 2001 Z28/auto. It's a 6.0 with an Eagle stroker kit, Wiseco pistons and an LS3 topend. Just sbout everything under the hood is new or fresh. Rebuilt 4l60 with a Yank stall.
Last edited by TimE; 11-06-2016 at 04:05 PM. Reason: Added info
11-06-2016, 04:08 PM
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I'm praying that's all it is but I'm scared to spin the motor any more right now because of the lack of oil pressure. Just freaking out right now...
11-06-2016, 04:23 PM
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So I would not encourage you to do anything stupid, but you piqued my curiosity. Ran outside and pulled the fuel pump fuse. Cranked the motor 3 separate times, counting to 10 each of the three times. All three times it did not register any pressure on the factory gage. I would assume that the factory sending unit does not register until a certain pressure. And I just ran this car yesterday so I know the oiling system is functional. Little different than your set up, 2000 Camaro, stock bottom end, heads, cam, headers, etc.
I would encourage you to not start it until you are confident that the oiling system is SAT, but my quick experiment tells me the factory gage will not register while cranking.
I would encourage you to not start it until you are confident that the oiling system is SAT, but my quick experiment tells me the factory gage will not register while cranking.
11-06-2016, 04:34 PM
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When I would turn the key off, the pressure gauge would ease up to 20 psi and sit there until the key was turned again. Thanks for going out and checking on yours. That makes me feel a little better.
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11-07-2016, 06:38 AM
#16
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Pull off the oil filter crank it and see if it is pushing any oil?
As long as you put the motor together with assembly lube (or something) You would have to crank on it for a long long time to do any damage.
You could pull that pass valve cover and see if something has gone sideways there.
As long as you put the motor together with assembly lube (or something) You would have to crank on it for a long long time to do any damage.
You could pull that pass valve cover and see if something has gone sideways there.
11-07-2016, 04:23 PM
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Thanks for all of the suggestions so far guys. I was really stoked about spinning it over for the first time yesterday after investing the money and time to "get it right" (or so I thought). Just got really bummed out when I heard the noise, just had to close my little garage and walk away...
The pump was installed dry. The other item that I thought might be the culprit of the squeal is the new rocker bushings but I found a couple of vids with that issue and it was a higher pitched tone. I'm pretty much dead in the water for the next week and a half or so. Working 10 out of the next 11 days so I'll have to jump on it as soon as I can. That's what has drug this whole process out--working 12 hr shifts, spending time with family, etc. I finally thought I could see the light at the end of the tunnel and then somebody turned off the power, lol.
I think I will pull the oil filter and, for curiousity's sake, spin it over to check for oil flow. Then, from there, pull the passengers' side valve cover and look that area over thoroughly. After that...down she goes. Lower the subframe and pull the pan to get a glimpse into the bottom end. If I find nothing there, out the whole thing will come. Ggrrrrr...
The pump was installed dry. The other item that I thought might be the culprit of the squeal is the new rocker bushings but I found a couple of vids with that issue and it was a higher pitched tone. I'm pretty much dead in the water for the next week and a half or so. Working 10 out of the next 11 days so I'll have to jump on it as soon as I can. That's what has drug this whole process out--working 12 hr shifts, spending time with family, etc. I finally thought I could see the light at the end of the tunnel and then somebody turned off the power, lol.
I think I will pull the oil filter and, for curiousity's sake, spin it over to check for oil flow. Then, from there, pull the passengers' side valve cover and look that area over thoroughly. After that...down she goes. Lower the subframe and pull the pan to get a glimpse into the bottom end. If I find nothing there, out the whole thing will come. Ggrrrrr...
11-07-2016, 04:41 PM
#18
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I've seen oil pumps that were installed dry take forever or never to prime.
"Never put anything in dry" - Old neighbor.. LOL
New motor I always fill the pump and the filter, if I can I also fill the oil galleys before I put the heads on.
Cheers
"Never put anything in dry" - Old neighbor.. LOL
New motor I always fill the pump and the filter, if I can I also fill the oil galleys before I put the heads on.
Cheers
11-07-2016, 06:52 PM
#19
That sounds like a rod hitting the windage tray to me.
If this is a new convertor at the time of engine install, Did you pre fill the new Torque converter?
BTW it can take a full minute of the engine actually running to fill the engine and actually show pressure. This is why it's recommended to pre lube an engine.
If this is a new convertor at the time of engine install, Did you pre fill the new Torque converter?
BTW it can take a full minute of the engine actually running to fill the engine and actually show pressure. This is why it's recommended to pre lube an engine.