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Head/cam install..Update - Need opinions on my front cam bearing. Pics attached
Im am prepping for the job and been doing a lot of research and watching install videos. One question i have is on the initial cam install.. i notice most guys have cylinder 1 at TDC but when they install the cam they arent very clear on the position of it.. does it need to be spun in a certain position? Every video i watch indicates you could throw it in at any position then slap the timing gear back on, go dot to dot and then you are good.. that makes no sense to me because you would think the position of the lobes would matter? Does the little dowel on the front of the cam help to determine this position? I figuref its something obvious im missing, so excuse my ignorance if so.
Other things to consider for prep.. i plan on using copper spray for .040 cometics, permatex ultra slick on the cam, soaking the lifters a day prior, and buying blue loctite for all of the front cam bolts and timing cover bolts. I also plan to use a thread chaser on head bolts and ensure they are clean and free of all moisture and debris.. i believe my 02 has metal gaskets from the factory so clean up will be done with plastic scrapers and brake clean (if its bad i could use a gray scotch bright pad?)..going with ARP head bolts to make torque easier.. i will be running an ARP crank bolt with their torque lube and blue loctite. Ive heard of using thread sealer on rocker bolts but not sure if its necessary? Please add anything i may be missing..
Is there any need for loctite anywhere else or using red loctite? Ive seen red loctite being used in videos but seems overkill.. I bought the comp retainer plate for the cam to make sure there is no way they can come loose.. heard some horror stories.
I may have more questions to come, but ill start here. Thanks guys
Last edited by RollinSScamaro; 12-12-2016 at 03:04 PM.
looks like you have everything addressed...proceed with patience and all will be fine. no the engine does not have to be at tdc when installing the cam. Just line the gears up dot to dot. Blue lock tite is fine on everything.
Thanks for chiming in! It really confuses me the position of the cam doesnt matter when installed.. maybe im over thinking it.. i was starting to wonder in the videos if they were missing it or if it truly didnt matter.. do rocker arm bolts also get blue loctite?
Last thing i need to order is pushrods once i measure.. i am suspecting 7.375 but ill have to wait and see..
Also, whats the best way for me to measure PTV when moving to a .040, i dont want to install and crush the gasket to check.. i dont think ill have any clearance issues but im checking just in case.. could i use stockers to check then just subtract the difference from .040?
The cam dowel is there for that reason...it ensures that the valve timing is correct when installed dot to dot. rocker arm bolts should get a gasket type sealant like Hylomar blue. Not 100% sure about PTV, but your method sounds like it could work.
Ok cool i thoughtt that the dowel had to make some kind of difference.. thanks for clearing that up.. i will make sure to do thread sealer on the rockers then and stick with blue loctite on everything else.
I think ive found crushed thickness of the stock mls in a old thread before but ill have to look.. the theory works in my head to just subtract thr difference after measuring.. maybe someone else will chime in and confirm this method? My other though is .040 shims on all for corners and snug it up to check.
I appreciate the info king! Wont be long before i can tear this thing apart. Sent the oil sample off today.. we will see if that comes back good.
Only put sealant on the rocker bolts if the heads have been ported, they are blind holes
from the factory, sometimes when they get ported the material gets ground off and exposes
the hole in the intake port. Personally I would get a book and go by that, you don't know if advice you get on the internet is accurate or not.
Only put sealant on the rocker bolts if the heads have been ported, they are blind holes
from the factory, sometimes when they get ported the material gets ground off and exposes
the hole in the intake port. Personally I would get a book and go by that, you don't know if advice you get on the internet is accurate or not.
The heads are AI 226cc 243s.. do you know of any good LS1 specific head/cam swap books? Ill have to look around.. thanks for the info
Use your old headgaskets when checking ptv. Tighten the head down with old bolts. Adjust your final ptv number by the difference in thickness between the old and new gaskets.
Ok cool thanks for confirming that method.. i will stick with that when its time to measure. All my parts should be in this coming week sometime.. it will be a slow process but i have a while until winter passes. That will give me time to double and triple check everything.
Many modern engines are interference engines, meaning if the valve timing does not match crank position the valves will hit the pistons. So do not tighten down the rockers unless cam is in the correct position.
Thanks for the link, way more complicated than i expected lol. This would just ensure the cam was installed correctly if the cam happened to be off a few degress right?
MY reason, many items you state are incorrect/not answered well.
There too are many good above stated answers that need NO correction.
1. Your choice, if you TDC # 1 OR # 6 cylinder to Dot/Dot, then measure the two "overlap" lifter bodies to "see" almost equal lift distance at TDC #1 OR #6, the Overlap Cylinder, not both. The Keyway/Dowel in each must "match" the sprocket hole position/slot.
2. USE GM or FelPro MLS gaskets ONLY for your case.
3. I use Copper Kote
4. "Soaking" lifters = no solution, PRESSURE feed oil into the lifter body feed hole until the internal plunger reaches FULL travel, lube roller bearing.
5. I use a blade Hone Stone purchased from Harbor Freight, then "witness" markes are created used to observe a flat surface, also a VERY fast clean.
6. I use a low grade stud, ones I sell, that yield at the same rate as OEM bolts.
7. YES, ARP crank bolt with lube as the OEM is "one" use ONLY.
8. Port the OIL PAN at the filter insert area.
9. I always "slot" the rods for better oil flow.
10.I always "re-torque" the TWO center head nuts AFTER all others.
As im tearing this apart i have cylinder 1 at TDC and had the timing marks matched.. would it be safest to pull the cam sprocket first and reinstall the cam and sprocket then do the crank sprocket and oil pump after to ensure i dont lose the factory timing position? If i pull it all off at once id risk losing the factory TDC right? Maybe its not a big deal but thought it could save some headache later?
Damn that was a fast response lol.. i wasnt 100% sure so wanted to ask.. id hate to rip it all off at once and get in a bind later.. with the crank not having a keyway i wasnt sure if it was possible to screw that up..
Well now i have a slight dillema.. puleed the cam last night but as i got past the condenser didnt realize my trans cooler would be in the way.. so while trying to get out of that i had to mess with the cam more than i wanted.. in the process i did a little damage.. been trying to do some searching, i have found some that people clean up a touch with scotch brite and run them with no issues.. i have the worst damage right towards the edge and the stuff in the center i cant really feel.. i was reading it may be better to clean up this one versus reaplcing 1 since it throws off the tolerances.. lots of mixed feelings on this one from what ive read.. wanted to get some opinions, ita a bummer because the bearing looked great before hand, everything else went real smooth.
Left hand lower side
I think the LED on my phone makes it stand out a lot more here.. as mentioned cant feel anything other than the left hand side
If it needs replacment for sure... can it be pulled out the front and installed from the front? Dont want to knock it into the motor..
11-25-2016, 03:46 PM
Head/cam install..Update - Need opinions on my front cam bearing. Pics attached 
