H/C/I build thread: AI/EPS/Mamo
06-07-2017, 05:23 PM
#161
Well I got it back from the tuner, it defntally runs better but "not as good as it should." He said the O2's are switching at about 1/5 the speed they should and are affecting the fueling. I need to check the heater circuit and if that checks throw some new sensors at it.
As for the valvetrain noise he stated it was noticeably louder than the two other LS's he tuned yesterday. This includes one that had the same Holley valve covers, a more aggressive cam, and LS7 lifters. He thought it sounded like excessive lash. Here is a video I just took, any thoughts?
As for the valvetrain noise he stated it was noticeably louder than the two other LS's he tuned yesterday. This includes one that had the same Holley valve covers, a more aggressive cam, and LS7 lifters. He thought it sounded like excessive lash. Here is a video I just took, any thoughts?
06-07-2017, 05:33 PM
#162
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To me it sounded fine. Usually a cell phone mic will augment valvetrain noise and make it sound worse. I didn't hear anything that would concern me.
On the fueling an easy solution is if he's dyno tuning he's got a WB - so put it in open loop, dial it in, see how it does, then activate closed loop but slow down the trimming action. Once it's close, thevtrums should be low enough to really not matter
On the fueling an easy solution is if he's dyno tuning he's got a WB - so put it in open loop, dial it in, see how it does, then activate closed loop but slow down the trimming action. Once it's close, thevtrums should be low enough to really not matter
06-08-2017, 06:54 AM
#164
It does have a noticeable ticking sound. I noticed it most on the drive home while coasting, or at a stop light with a vehicle next to me so the sound has something to bounce off. I'm the video it is most noticeable in the portion with the phone looking at the collector of the header I think.
No audible tick should be normal, right?
He just did a street tune for me, durability improved for sure and it seems to have better power. He said we could set up some dyno time if I'd like. Basically what you're saying is that if I can't get my O2's to respond faster that he could get the computer essentially look at them at longer intervals? Sorry I'm pretty in the dark when it comes to tuning.
No audible tick should be normal, right?
He just did a street tune for me, durability improved for sure and it seems to have better power. He said we could set up some dyno time if I'd like. Basically what you're saying is that if I can't get my O2's to respond faster that he could get the computer essentially look at them at longer intervals? Sorry I'm pretty in the dark when it comes to tuning.
06-08-2017, 10:12 AM
#166
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I heard it better in that vid. But I heard it most when you put the camera down low at the end of the video. That might indicate an exhaust leak. Probably does.
Which would also explain your oxygen sensors not quite acting normal.
Which would also explain your oxygen sensors not quite acting normal.
06-08-2017, 11:47 AM
#168
I had kind of thought exhaust leak too so I checked the tightness of the header bolts (might try again from below on the back few) and they were all tight. I also installed the overlapping band clamps which didn't seem to change anything.
I did have some concerns with some scratches by the exhaust ports of the heads. I put some pictures in this thread https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...t-sealing.html since they didn't feel too bad with the fingernail test I just put a stone on them to take out any high points and ran them with new GM MLS gaskets. I have read a person on here state that they just use high temp silicone/RTV instead of gaskets to avoid any sealing issues. Any thoughts on this, and what is a good way to test for leaks? Not so sure the soapy water trick would work with the heat of headers..
I did have some concerns with some scratches by the exhaust ports of the heads. I put some pictures in this thread https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...t-sealing.html since they didn't feel too bad with the fingernail test I just put a stone on them to take out any high points and ran them with new GM MLS gaskets. I have read a person on here state that they just use high temp silicone/RTV instead of gaskets to avoid any sealing issues. Any thoughts on this, and what is a good way to test for leaks? Not so sure the soapy water trick would work with the heat of headers..
06-08-2017, 05:06 PM
#169
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Maybe this helps maybe not. But a rather recent dyno run, on the way home, I was hearing all kinds of racket. Coming at me when I got next to a barrier. I honestly was starting to worry I'd blown the engine. Got home, and discovered the wideband plug had fallen out, and it was a simple fix.
I've had good luck soaking the header gaskets with copper coat spray to answer your other question.
I've had good luck soaking the header gaskets with copper coat spray to answer your other question.
06-09-2017, 07:56 AM
#170
Maybe this helps maybe not. But a rather recent dyno run, on the way home, I was hearing all kinds of racket. Coming at me when I got next to a barrier. I honestly was starting to worry I'd blown the engine. Got home, and discovered the wideband plug had fallen out, and it was a simple fix.
I've had good luck soaking the header gaskets with copper coat spray to answer your other question.
I've had good luck soaking the header gaskets with copper coat spray to answer your other question.
06-09-2017, 11:09 AM
#171
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I didn't soak my rockers either. Did you soak the lifters in ATF?
06-09-2017, 11:46 AM
#172
Don't soak the lifters in anything but oil. They come with a coating on them.
I cleaned off the bodies and rollers. Then coated them in Joe Gibbs assembly lube.
And my valvetrain is pretty silent. And I've run both a Cam Motion ground cam and now have a Comp Cams in there.
I cleaned off the bodies and rollers. Then coated them in Joe Gibbs assembly lube.
And my valvetrain is pretty silent. And I've run both a Cam Motion ground cam and now have a Comp Cams in there.
06-09-2017, 11:57 AM
#173
I've also heard certain headers; thinner gauge steel; have an audible tinginess or tapping sound at idle or low engine speeds. Yes more aggressive cam profiles and elevated spring pressures make louder valvetrain noise even if all the preloads are spot on, but certain brands of headers will drive you nuts if they are 16 or 18 gauge. Thicker 14 gauge steel "acts" a little more like a manifold at deadening those exhaust port snaps
06-09-2017, 08:24 PM
#176
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Very nice build look forward to dyno and track numbers!
06-10-2017, 06:01 AM
#177
As in its the headers being thin gauge?
Thank you, I do as well haha. My tuner does think that the clutch is not fully holding on a WOT pull, so I may just try to get it to last the summer. I am pretty much set on a Monster LT1-S with the lightweight flywheel option, now just to wait for a deal.
Thank you, I do as well haha. My tuner does think that the clutch is not fully holding on a WOT pull, so I may just try to get it to last the summer. I am pretty much set on a Monster LT1-S with the lightweight flywheel option, now just to wait for a deal.