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Possible bottom end noise after heads cam

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Old 05-15-2017, 07:20 PM
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So the noise is still present after replacing the o ring. I still have very small air bubbles on the dipstick. Where else could the air be getting in? Pcv, oil cap, dipstick or where the dipstick inserts into block (it does seem a tad loose)?Or could this actually be normal? While running the bubbles are there..after sitting a few minutes they seem to be gone. It's more of a ticking than a knock. It does not seem to be an exhaust leak. When I put the stethoscope to the oil pan it seems to be where the noise is coming from still...along with a bit of valvetrain noise. Could this be a lifter or too short push rod I'm hearing? Would that radiate from the bottom like it seems to be? I can hear it thru the firewall in the car. I did notice when I put the stethoscope to the far back where the torque tube attaches, it seems to be it's loudest. I will be posting new videos shortly. Please, somebody give me some ideas here.
Old 05-15-2017, 07:33 PM
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You replaced the O-ring... but was it installed correctly?? And the correct one??
Put on the tube resting in the groove, then well-lubed while easing it into the pump.
Old 05-15-2017, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
You replaced the O-ring... but was it installed correctly?? And the correct one??
Put on the tube resting in the groove, then well-lubed while easing it into the pump.
Yes. I put the o ring on the pick up tube and slid it down to where the pick up tube had that protrusion. I soaked the o ring in oil for about 10 minutes prior to this. I left the oil pump loose while doing this. It slid right in and popped into place. Then I attached the oil pump. I used a new factory gm blue o ring.
Old 05-15-2017, 08:00 PM
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what preload value did you use when ordering pushrods
Old 05-15-2017, 08:00 PM
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and did you pull the valve covers as suggested?
Old 05-15-2017, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 93Rat
and did you pull the valve covers as suggested?
Pulling them next time I'm at the garage. Could valce train noise be heard from the oil pan though?
Old 05-15-2017, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 93Rat
what preload value did you use when ordering pushrods
I ordered the ones that TSP recommended. I did use a push rod length checker and they are possibly .025" too short if anything.
Old 05-15-2017, 08:15 PM
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i cannot imagine TSP would encourage a customer to not measure for pushrod length after a head cam swap- i worked with them on my swap and they always reiterated the need to measure. if i had to guess, thats your problem. ill happily eat crow if someone more seasoned wants to weigh in.

Last edited by 93Rat; 05-15-2017 at 10:16 PM.
Old 05-15-2017, 08:31 PM
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if it were me, i would pop off the valve covers and see if anything pops out at you. then id remeasure for pushrod length
Old 05-15-2017, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 93Rat
i cannot imagine TSP would encourage a customer to not measure for pushrod length after a head cam swap- i worked with them and they always reiterated the need to measure. if i had to guess, thats your problem. ill happily eat crow if someone more seasoned wants to weigh in.
They were running a special on their heads and cam package when I ordered. The pushrods came in the package deal so I went with what they recommended. I pm'd you back by the way.
Old 05-16-2017, 08:15 AM
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Well I'm sorry to hear you still have noise. As far as bubbles go once the engine is warm it should be bubble free. Air could be entering anyplace BEFORE the oil pump so it is possible the pickup tube is damaged. If you make a video cold start then hot run I'd like to hear it now. I think you should take the advise of the guys above and check your preload. But if that oil has bubbles in it its still going to have loud lifters. I been down this road so many times.

Last edited by RockinWs6; 05-16-2017 at 08:41 AM.
Old 05-16-2017, 09:11 AM
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Here is what the dipstick looks like when pulled from hot and running motor.
Old 05-16-2017, 09:13 AM
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Also to note, the car is at a slight incline as it's currently on jackstands
Old 05-16-2017, 07:27 PM
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Never clears up? what if you let it idle for 20-30 mins? I'd let it idle for 30 mins, by that time that oil should look clear. With all that air the lifters compress and will be noisy as hell.
Old 05-17-2017, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by RockinWs6
Never clears up? what if you let it idle for 20-30 mins? I'd let it idle for 30 mins, by that time that oil should look clear. With all that air the lifters compress and will be noisy as hell.
I'm going to be pulling valve covers today. After that, I'll let her idle awhile and see how it goes.
Old 05-18-2017, 07:01 PM
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I have another thing for you to look at. When I was having trouble like this I could see small air bubbles coming out the tops of the rockers with the oil. I took the oil cap off and watched the 1st rocker as it ran, sure enough it had small air bubbles in the oil as it was running at a idle. After repairing the air leak I no longer had air bubbles in the oil at the rockers, just clear oil.
Old 05-20-2017, 06:45 PM
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So I've finally gotten around to pulling the valve covers. On almost all of the closed valves, I can tap the rocker arm and hear it tap. There's a tad bit of play in them for sure, up and down and side to side. Going back to when I checked push rod length, I don't believe I factored pre load in. So it seems I could be anywhere from .075 to .100 off. Oops. That's definitely one issue. I'll be rechecking length and ordering the correct ones.
Old 05-21-2017, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by sc6speed
So I've finally gotten around to pulling the valve covers. On almost all of the closed valves, I can tap the rocker arm and hear it tap. There's a tad bit of play in them for sure, up and down and side to side. Going back to when I checked push rod length, I don't believe I factored pre load in. So it seems I could be anywhere from .075 to .100 off. Oops. That's definitely one issue. I'll be rechecking length and ordering the correct ones.
Bingo
Old 05-22-2017, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by 93Rat
Bingo
I have to agree



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