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AUpdate* block is at the machineshop wait to hear back how far i can bore over, wanting to go to a 370ci
Question
Is it possible to use ls7 crank in a lq9 block and if so is modification needed or worth it.
so just about have every part i need for my build, any knowledge is definitely welcomed this is my first major build.
lq9.t56 combo will be going in my 2000 trans am
Looking to make 500 rwhp out of this set up
I will be doing m6 swap
t56 has around 60k on it i was told and is stock
ill be using tick adjustable master
ls7 clutch kit
some of the sensors look broken im not sure if i need to replace these?
also unsure of rewiring info and steps.
stock 04 80k lq9 block
Boreing .30 over
229cc cnc ported 799 heads
titanium valves and lash caps,
"probably going to run stock valves out of the 317 heads"
btr .660 dual valve spring kit tit retainers seats ect.
Chromoloy push rods 5/16 7.4''
vrx5 cam 236/238 .601/.605 113 + 2
Jessel sportsman 1.7 shaftmount rockers
link bar lifters morel 5290
blue printed and ported oil pump
ls6 intake w. ls1 fuel rail
60lb ls2 injectors
Truck ported throttle body
ngk tr6
msd wires
ls2 chain
trick flow ls2 dampener adapter & ls2 dampener
tsp 1 7/8 long tube headers & ory
3" magnaflow cat back
ls6 valley pan conversion
norris oil catch can
heat sink truck coils
slp lid
25% pd under-drive pulley
katech belt tensioner
Ractronix 255 walbro, hot wire kit
poly mounts on engine and trans
ls1 a4 wiring harness 2000 t/a
any advice on tuning/ t56 swap/ or any engine assembly would be super appreciated.
From what ive read i need the ls1 front rear covers along with the ls1 oil pan,
1 wire oil sending unit, any other parts i need for 2000 ls1 a4 wiring harness to m6 lq9?
I know so far that i have to cut the hole for the master and another hole for shift in the center
also should i just block off the oil cooler on the lq9 block or is it recommended to hook it up?
any idea of the numbers this combo might put down?
Couple of things to get started. Don't use the 7.4" pushrods. With that drastic of a change over a stock engine, you NEED to measure for the correct length pushrods. If not, you could have problems anywhere from the valves not opening enough and killing your power all the way to the valves opening too much and destroying themselves and the pistons. Do yourself a favor, spend 20 bucks on the comp pushrod length checker and get the correct pushrods.
On the trick flow timing chain dampner bracket, be extra careful with the allen head bolts that have to be used on both the bracket to cam retainer plate and the bracket to dampner. They are ridiculously soft and strip before you even get them to the small torque theyre required to be at. Unfortunately, you have to use them for clearance issues. Using the stock bolts to hold the bracket to the cam retainer plate causes the timing gear to contact the bolts behind it. I ended up taking mine back off and throwing it in the trash. With a new timing gear, new crank gear and new chain, I felt the setup was plenty good enough without the dampner. Not saying you shouldnt use it, just be careful with those shitty bolts they sent with the kit and make 1000% sure the allen head socket youre using to torque them down is the correct size.
Like was said above, measure measure measure your pushrods. Esp using lash caps. Also make sure you measure ptv on that cam.
Second, there is no need for that katech tensioner esp using the aftermarket balancer with the higher ledges.
Your stock inj and likely fuel pump wont handle that.
The fast42s we have are $300 and work and tune easy.
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/catalog/fast-high-impedance-36-lb-hr-injectors/
And the fuel pump youll need the 255 kit
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/catalog/99-02-ls1-f-body-plastic-racetronix-fuel-system/
Using an 85mm truck tb...which ive not heard of even or as far as fitting an ls6 manifold, why use the stock 78mm maf then? Using the truck/z06 maf would be alot better option and possibly be easier to tune than the stocker. we have that kit also with the wiring harness for $229.
On the trick flow timing chain dampner bracket, be extra careful with the allen head bolts that have to be used on both the bracket to cam retainer plate and the bracket to dampner. They are ridiculously soft and strip before you even get them to the small torque theyre required to be at. Unfortunately, you have to use them for clearance issues. Using the stock bolts to hold the bracket to the cam retainer plate causes the timing gear to contact the bolts behind it. I ended up taking mine back off and throwing it in the trash. With a new timing gear, new crank gear and new chain, I felt the setup was plenty good enough without the dampner. Not saying you shouldnt use it, just be careful with those shitty bolts they sent with the kit and make 1000% sure the allen head socket youre using to torque them down is the correct size.
I used ARP bolts, I did not see this issue with my cloyes hex-a-just timing set.
I used ARP bolts, I did not see this issue with my cloyes hex-a-just timing set.
Im specifically referring to the Trick Flow timing chain dampner bracket, and use of a stock style timing set. The cloyes hex-a-just might have more clearance between the cam retainer plate and timing gear. With the Trick Flow bracket bolted on top of the cam retainer plate, stock style bolts wont clear a stock timing gear.
Which arp bolts did you use? Shoulf i rrplace the cam gear?
Go to ARPs website, they have an upgraded bolt for pretty much everything on the entire LS engine. A new cam gear cant hurt, and theyre pretty cheap. Also wouldnt hurt to add 4 new lifter trays to the list as well.
Arp doesnt make a bolt for the new gm thrust plate which takes a countersunk torx head bolt.
We do offer a better countersunk bolt with an allen head instead of torx so they are less likely to slip and strip and break the torx bit off.
The old style flat cam plate used reg bolts but most of them cannot be used with aftermarket sets. The cloyes sets other than stock replacement use a torrington bearing between the back of the cam gear and the thrust plate also. alot better design. all of our other billet sets do the same.
Arp doesnt make a bolt for the new gm thrust plate which takes a countersunk torx head bolt.
We do offer a better countersunk bolt with an allen head instead of torx so they are less likely to slip and strip and break the torx bit off.
The old style flat cam plate used reg bolts but most of them cannot be used with aftermarket sets. The cloyes sets other than stock replacement use a torrington bearing between the back of the cam gear and the thrust plate also. alot better design. all of our other billet sets do the same.
Thats why I had issues with the stock style bolts when using the Trick Flow bracket, I have the older style retainer plate with the regular style bolts. Now that I think about it though, Im not sure the Trick Flow bracket would work with the newer style retainer plate with countersunk holes, as the bracket sits flat against the retainer plate. Doesnt matter anyway, the Trick Flow bracket isnt going to be used in my build anymore anyway.
Nice combo but I'd stay away from the Ti valves for the street.
Look for some GM hollow LS6 valves or else Manley makes some nice hollow ones as well. Expensive but you'ld only need the intakes hollow as the exhausts are generally fairly light.
Honestly the stock valves are light anyway even going to a 2.02 isnt heavy like an l92 valve is. If you already have the valves there isnt a need to spend more to get diff ones. l92 heads still make arguably the same power as the ls3 heads do. Its all about the purpose its built for.
We were talking about the retainer plate. The new gm thrust plate isnt flat, it has the countersunk holes.
The ti valves are pretty light and normally made for high rpm gains. And can possibly see more wear and tear on the stems as well. TI is strong and light but its soft and wears easily. That is one reason they need lash caps. The rocker arm would literally wear the valve tip off all the way down to the lock and then the valve falls into the cyl.
From my research as I thought about using them, you have to use beryllium valve seats as well as the Ti valves will actually pull themselves thru the normal seat.....
From my research as I thought about using them, you have to use beryllium valve seats as well as the Ti valves will actually pull themselves thru the normal seat.....
06-02-2017, 03:10 AM
lq9 H/C/I bolton aiming for 500hp rwhp 
