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Ok so like the title says i am doing my 1st ever engine build. I just picked up a Lm7 out of a 02 avalanche for $200. I took the heads off at the junk yard and everything looks to be in ok shape..i still see crosshatches. First i am going to order a flex hone and deglaze the bore. I was thinking 180 grit but if anyone has a second opinion let me know,this is a first for me and any advice is welcome. i will post pics as soon as i figure out how to get it out of my truck and onto the stand by myself
so i got the engine on the stand and tore apart mostly. everything looks good..and then i see this..on the pistons closest to the front of the motor. Man I wasnt planning on getting a new crankshaft..
heres some more random pics. Is there anyway that i can get away with using the same crank? i checked and its like $200 for a new one...I mean not that i cant afford it but i would like to avoid it
If you're going to take the engine apart to hone it I would take it to a machine shop and let them hot tank and hone it. It will cost you all of $150 and you will have a nice clean engine block that you know was done right. And while it's there I would have them put in new cam bearings and take a look at that crank. Just my .02
We carry either complete gasket kits or complete engine rebuild kits with pistons, rings, bearings, oil pump, and timing set or any combo of these parts.
Cheaper than summit and amazon, more complete, and a one stop shop!
well a small update. i got everything cleaned up and let me tell you..the damn rod journal was worn to like 2.87 on one side..the damn main cap is gouged..took the crank to a machine shop and they said they would turn down the rod journals .20 and the mains .10, i showed him the main cap with the gouges and he said he would line hone it so i needed to bring in the block. He said he'd charge me $120 for the crank and $140 to line hone. Is this even worth it guys? I mean if my main journals are already gonna be -.10 and the main cap gets the gouge honed out say.. .20. i know they sell over/under sized bearings but would that even work if i have both honed?Forgive my ignorance..I mean i only paid $200 for the whole damn engine so i could make my money back in parts if need be, hell it had a brand new waterpump. The build is just a small budget build for my worktruck and im only looking to make 350-375 whp so its nothing major but i just dont wanna spend money if its just gonna be pissin in the wind..idk whats your opinions?
Pretty good prices IMO as long as the main cap/journal isnt blued too much.
Iirc we have main bearings all the way up to .060 over so that is quite a bit. Just make sure the thrust surface is good on crank and you should be ok.
Pretty good prices IMO as long as the main cap/journal isnt blued too much.
Iirc we have main bearings all the way up to .060 over so that is quite a bit. Just make sure the thrust surface is good on crank and you should be ok.
Thanks, thats what i needed to here. I will deff be purchasing my parts from your business. so it wont hurt anything to run a bearing that big? I thought i read somewhere that .30 was the max but i could be mistaken.
Let us know your final messurment and we can work it out. They have up to .030 oversize normally but there is also a special .020 over bore size .010 under crank main journal bearing that would work also. thats what you would be looking at.
Let us know your final messurment and we can work it out. They have up to .030 oversize normally but there is also a special .020 over bore size .010 under crank main journal bearing that would work also. thats what you would be looking at.
Ok engine and crank are at the machine shop. Do you have a web site? I need a set of cam bearings, the ones in the motor are fine but since im doing a rebuild...im thinking if going with a 212/218 low lift. Should i go with performance bearings for the cam or is that overkill? Basicially i want to build a badass reliable N/A motor for my worktruck/daily with low/mid tourqe. Not a drag truck per se but i still want to be able to take hills with ease if i have a full load of lumber and smoke a Ford from a red light if they want some
Also if anyone has 2 rods laying around for cheap give me a holler, 2 of mine were toast
Ok engine and crank are at the machine shop. Do you have a web site? I need a set of cam bearings, the ones in the motor are fine but since im doing a rebuild...im thinking if going with a 212/218 low lift. Should i go with performance bearings for the cam or is that overkill? Basicially i want to build a badass reliable N/A motor for my worktruck/daily with low/mid tourqe. Not a drag truck per se but i still want to be able to take hills with ease if i have a full load of lumber and smoke a Ford from a red light if they want some
Also if anyone has 2 rods laying around for cheap give me a holler, 2 of mine were toast
You want torque add some lift. Looks like you are eyeing the tsp truck cam. Upgrade to the .600 lift, add power, and get where you want to be. There is no drawback to that. Same price too.
Our websites are ws6store.com and rpmspeed.com. We dont have alot in the "trucks" section right now, but if you want to email me we can get you an idea of total parts/package pricing. We have a reg hd cam bearing that is good. No need to get stuck in left field and waste money. I personally have 2 2500hd trucks i tow and haul alot with so i can def set you straight on what to do!
ok so today i tried my hand at porting. i opted to practice on the TB first to get some practice. I found that my dewalt router actually works really good..if they made a flex hose extension that fit it would be the ****. i have a set of porting burs otw from amazon. so once i get those we will see if i have what it takes
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1st Engine Build ..Lm7 
