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Question for you all on a motor noise i have

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Old 08-08-2017, 05:44 AM
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Default Question for you all on a motor noise i have

haven't drove the car for about 2 days. started it up last night to move it and had a bit of a motor noise or knock. it didn't sound deep or low like a rod knock. and after the car ran for 2-3 min the noise was gone.
this sound like a lifter loosing pressure?
Old 08-08-2017, 05:48 AM
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Piston slap, once it warms up and expands to normal the sound goes away, GM says it's normal, my 99 5.3 used to scare the **** outa me till it warmed up, sounded like the pistons were swapping holes....
Old 08-08-2017, 09:13 AM
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Piston slap would have been there since the car was new. The notorious ls1 piston slap anyway. My first ls1 f body had it the entire 80k miles that I owned it. OP I'm going to guess that you might have a sticking lifter that takes a few minutes to pump-up.
Old 08-08-2017, 09:43 AM
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that's what I was thinking it was. I just got the car about 6 weeks ago but have only noticed it the last couple of weeks.
wonder if some seafoam in the oil would clear it up? what is your guys thoughts on that?
i ran a can through the gas tank to clean the fuel system. haven't done top engine yet and plan to with the Mopar Combustion Chamber cleaner but haven't done anything with seafoam in the oil yet since i changed the oil on the car just after i got it with Royal Purple. thought i would do some seafoam when its close to oil change time.
Old 08-08-2017, 10:45 AM
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You could try seafoam. Or some good tranny fluid. I wouldn't run the tranny fluid in the oil for more than 100 miles or so though.
Old 08-08-2017, 11:17 AM
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Ill try it when it starts to get close to oil change time.
i kinda thought it was lifter also but its hard to tell as it don't do it all the time. one time it will then the next few times it starts up it wont do it at all.
that's what led me to think it was a lifter vs the piston slap
Old 08-08-2017, 01:06 PM
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That's odd. Intermittent issues are the worst to try and isolate. I would just try some seafoam and keep an eye (or ear) on it and see if it gets worse.
Old 08-08-2017, 02:20 PM
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Yea ill keep a close on it.
wanting to do a cam swap and could do it then but then that leads to springs, might as well do heads then too since ill have to take them off to get to the lifters. and might as well do an intake while its off too.


damn the Fiancé aint gonna like this but ill just not tell her
Old 08-09-2017, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by LukeDowning
Yea ill keep a close on it.
wanting to do a cam swap and could do it then but then that leads to springs, might as well do heads then too since ill have to take them off to get to the lifters. and might as well do an intake while its off too.


damn the Fiancé aint gonna like this but ill just not tell her
Sounds like the mod bug has already bitten you. Yeah, if you're going to cam it anyway, don't worry, as you should replace all the lifters anyway. A good aftermarket cam will want a good set of heads and intake also. And yeah, she'll never know!
Old 08-09-2017, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by LukeDowning
Yea ill keep a close on it.
wanting to do a cam swap and could do it then but then that leads to springs, might as well do heads then too since ill have to take them off to get to the lifters. and might as well do an intake while its off too.
That's where I started, then rocker trunnions, pushrods, valve covers, coils, plug wires, timing chain and damper, oil pump, then get the intake ported by Mamo, new TB and lid set up, fuel pump/rails/injectors, then all the gaskets, bolts, fluids and a tune. Adds up pretty quick even with taking advantage of sales and the classifieds. Then your clutch starts to slip, then your rear end is on borrowed time, then you might need new sticker tires to hook up... Just so you know what to expect.
Old 08-09-2017, 01:38 PM
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Was reading you guys posts, I too just bought a '99 Camaro 2 weeks ago and was thinking about trying Seafoam myself, does this work in the gas tank and engine oil for the motor? Car was sitting for some time before I bought it. Thanks for any help.
Old 08-09-2017, 02:10 PM
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yea already have plans for lots for sure.
just got in a Strut Tower brace and SLP LM catback. LT and ORY are next. then ill prob be done for a while till after the first of the year or so.
then ill start with more stuff.
am really wanting to just get a 2nd motor if I can find a deal on one to just start from scratch and put a good forged lower end in it then do cam, heads springs intake TB. and my end goal is to Turbo this thing. so im kinda back and forth on what motor to get for that weather to go with another ls1 or go with a alum block 5.3 and build it and boost it.
don't know a ton about the Turbos but know I would love to have one
Old 08-17-2017, 01:41 PM
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Real piston slap DOES NOT GO AWAY.........none of you would know what it sounds like if it slapped you in your head.

Lifter noise is what the GM engines are famous for. GM car cold engine noise=lifter noise.......say it over and over until you understand it.

Piston Slap<BULL **** no such thing as piston slap that goes away!

Lifter noise=goes away if you're lucky


Piston slap=doesn't go away


Say the above until your brain gets it!

Last edited by RockinWs6; 08-17-2017 at 01:46 PM.
Old 08-17-2017, 02:14 PM
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?? Jeeps(and other mopars) have had the piston slap problem for years(Early 90's) ,, the criteria for getting it fixed under warranty was that the noise didn't stop once warmed up.

Mine had it until I rebuilt the motor at 170K miles, the new hypereutectic pistons cured it.
Up till that point he slap lasted until the engine hit about 150 degrees. It was very obvious from the wear on the pistons and in the bores that there was a wear pattern on the skirts and the bottom of the bores.
Old 08-17-2017, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by pdxmotorhead
?? Jeeps(and other mopars) have had the piston slap problem for years(Early 90's) ,, the criteria for getting it fixed under warranty was that the noise didn't stop once warmed up.

Mine had it until I rebuilt the motor at 170K miles, the new hypereutectic pistons cured it.
Up till that point he slap lasted until the engine hit about 150 degrees. It was very obvious from the wear on the pistons and in the bores that there was a wear pattern on the skirts and the bottom of the bores.
IT had NORMAL ENGINE NOISE~ A bad loose in the bore piston that is slapping DOES NOT fix its self @ 150 degrees and stop slapping. Trust you NEVER heard real PISTON slap.....you heard NORMAL cold engine noise.

GM and the Dealer came up with the "PISTON SLAP" BS to hide the fact their lifters were noisy cold. Trust me I know what I'm posting about. I ran a Chevy dealers service dept for many years.
Old 08-17-2017, 03:28 PM
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Not questioning your knowledge, but once a piston warms a bit, would it not expand enough to "fill" the cylinder and diminish the slap almost entirely or totally? Especially if it was what one may term a borderline case?
Old 08-17-2017, 03:50 PM
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What is your definition of piston slap? To me its any time the piston rocks excessively in the bore causing the skirt to slap the cylinder wall more than normal at the top and bottom of the stroke. I'm assuming you've got a specific circumstance in mind, so could you describe it? We may just be using different terms..

I'm 54, I've been working on engines since I was 13.. mini bikes to a couple Merlins.. That gets me a free cup of coffee, one in a great while,, racers are generally cheap buggers.. LOL

Jeep identified they used the wrong alloy for the clearances, or the wrong clearances for the alloy,, depends on the point of view, and the result with the newer short piston skirts was that they would rock and the skirt would hit the piston walls, they had many 100,000's of these on the street. Some. of them were worse than others (got recalled) but the cause was the manufacturing of the pistons, Most the problem would get worse over time but some the normal piston expansion with heat would tighten them up. Coated Hyperutectic pistons were installed to bandaid the problem. There is also still a crank/rod/piston pin alignment/measurement issue I think. My motor builder said the offset on the pin that he thought looked like it would cause a bit more side load at the top of the stroke than he would normally like to see.

Cheers!
Old 08-17-2017, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
Not questioning your knowledge, but once a piston warms a bit, would it not expand enough to "fill" the cylinder and diminish the slap almost entirely or totally? Especially if it was what one may term a borderline case?
Nope ALL engines have cold piston noise, BUT all engines are not built to the same specs. High performance engines use a looser fitting piston design that can be noisy BUT THAT IS NOT PISTON SLAP.

All this piston slap bull **** came from GM and its dealers trying to get customers off their backs because of cold lifter noise. Tell a customer their lifters on their new car are noisy and the sheet hits the fan. But tell them a white lie about piston noise and they swallow it. The fact is ALL engine have cold piston noise, BUT ITS NOT PISTON SLAP DAMIT! Real PISTON SLAP is caused by a worn out piston and WILL NEVER quiet down.


I've owned 6 LS1 cars..............6..........all had INSANE lifter noise

ALL had normal cold piston noise...................

All 6 the dealers tried to pass off the lifter noise as PISTON SLAP.

Trust me you'll know it when you hear real piston slap, I lost number 7 piston in one of my engines and when the piston starting coming apart it hammered like hell and never went away.


That slight rockin knocking noise you hear in any LS engine is normal engine noise, THAT LOUD cold TICKING CLACKING KNOCKING CLATTERING is your dam lifters!

I've bean doing this over 50 years...............trust me I know what I'm talking about.

Wanna hear your noisy LS1 quiet down? start using a high detergent diesel engine oil that cleans the crap out of your lifters internals and it will be silent again.
Old 08-17-2017, 09:21 PM
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OK, gotcha....
Old 08-17-2017, 09:52 PM
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Just my opinion but I would not run sea foam in your oil.



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