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LY6 Shortblock with 799 Heads/Dorman LS2 Intake or go with LS3 head/intake

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Old 09-22-2017, 10:13 AM
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Default LY6 Shortblock with 799 Heads/Dorman LS2 Intake or go with LS3 head/intake

Alright everyone, I have some questions on where I should go with my setup. I'm placing this in the Gen 3 Internal forum for now. I was in the middle of building a Gen 5.3 iron block with 799 heads, Dorman LS2 intake manifold, and a 224/228 .581 .588 lift 112 LSA cam. Pretty mild NA build. This last week I bought a Gen 4 LY6 6.0 short block because I got an awesome deal on it ($260). It has I believe around 80k-90k miles on it. I need to have the cylinders honed because they have surface rust in them that can't just be wiped away with a rag with oil on it.

This is my question, how much would I be hurting myself power wise by sticking with my 799 heads, Dorman LS2 intake manifold, and 224/228 cam? Or should I try to sell everything and buy 823 heads, LS3 intake manifold and sticking with my cam? I am on a pretty tight budget but I also want to do this right as much as possible. In my head, which I essentially have is a 6.0 short block no matter if its Gen 3 or Gen 4. I know a lot of people are going with the LS3 style head/intake on 6.0's, however I have also read up on here that cathedral port heads are decent on a stock cube 6 liter. My motor will be NA and I'm not trying to make huge power (budget) but I would like to make really good power (450ish at the wheel). This is going to go in 100% street driven 1998 Camaro z28 M6.

Thank you all for your time.



Last edited by Sube; 09-22-2017 at 10:24 AM.
Old 09-22-2017, 10:31 AM
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I think for what you are doing with it, the 799 heads(identical to 243's) will do fine, even better if you get them a mild port job, but not totally necessary.
Old 09-22-2017, 10:40 AM
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I vote cathedrals too. I think that cam is too small for 450whp either way, but cathedrals usually make better low end power, which is really nice in a manual trans street car.
Old 09-22-2017, 10:45 AM
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Agree on the cam, but for street use, much more cam would be a bugger to drive in traffic. But that's just me, maybe the OP is used to that! lol
Old 09-22-2017, 10:51 AM
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I could go with a bigger cam, that's not a major issue to me. My last car was a 235/243 .621”/.624” 111LSA +4 advance Pat G cam/Fast 102/ PRC LS6 heads LS1/T56 that put down 440hp or so and I didn't have a problem with driving it.
Old 09-22-2017, 10:55 AM
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As long as it is tuned to a "T", and I KNOW you probably have that down, you're right!
Old 09-22-2017, 12:09 PM
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If on a budget; I'd just use oil and a scotch-brite pad to clean them walls and leave the short block together. releasing the rod bolts and re-torquing them can distort the big ends....I've seen it myself on a rod resizing machine...no lie
Have those heads milled like.030", pocket blend the bowls, sexy valve job, and pop it together with that cam
Might only make 420-ish rear wheel however the drivability and responsiveness
will make it alot of fun to drive
Old 09-22-2017, 12:13 PM
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So my next question, if I didn't use my 224/228 cam, what cam would you all recommend if I stuck with the 799 head/Dorman LS2 intake.
Old 09-22-2017, 12:14 PM
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What would a 220/224 .580 cam put down, with the 799 setup?

Thanks.
Old 09-22-2017, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Sube
So my next question, if I didn't use my 224/228 cam, what cam would you all recommend if I stuck with the 799 head/Dorman LS2 intake.
Tony Mamo made 475 RWHP with that cam and some 205 AFR heads on a 346" back in 2005
Depending on your vehicle weight, gearing, and other mods, I don't know that I would go too much more than 230/236 @.050" for a perfectly streetable drive to mexico tomorrow type combo
Old 09-22-2017, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Stampede4ever
What would a 220/224 .580 cam put down, with the 799 setup?

Thanks.
The intellectual dyno needs about twenty additional specs in order to compute with ANY sort of accuracy.....
Old 09-22-2017, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by A.R. Shale Targa
Tony Mamo made 475 RWHP with that cam and some 205 AFR heads on a 346" back in 2005
Depending on your vehicle weight, gearing, and other mods, I don't know that I would go too much more than 230/236 @.050" for a perfectly streetable drive to mexico tomorrow type combo
Wish I could afford some AFR heads lol. It's a stock weight 1998 Camaro Z28, T56, 12 bolt with 3.73 gears. Will be my above engine combo with 1 7/8 Speed Engineering headers, and eventually I'll do the 3 inch into 4 inch merge into a 4 inch cutout. Right now it's just going to go into a Magnaflow exhaust.
Old 09-25-2017, 01:50 PM
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So I finally had time to do a closer inspection on my motor and I found that I had a couple of extra valve reliefs in two pistons...glad I got the motor for cheap. So these are my thoughts. I'm thinking of buying a set of LS2/LQ9 flat top pistons and running them with my 799 heads. That should bump my compression ratio to around 11:1. I know I should be safe with the cam I already have. If I upgraded my cam, what would be recommended? Or should I just call BTR or Tick up? Or just run the cam I have? Rather not have to cut valve reliefs if I didn't have to.




Old 09-25-2017, 02:02 PM
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Whoa! Nothing like getting new valve reliefs while in use!
Old 09-25-2017, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
Whoa! Nothing like getting new valve reliefs while in use!
No kidding! This has blown my budget all out of whack!
Old 09-25-2017, 06:08 PM
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D n J hyper pistons can be had with rings for under 300 bills got mine from R.A. but the WS6 store carries them or the equivalent LQ9 ones with the slightly thicker ring pack...not huge money really....run a fine ball hone through them cylinders with Dexron for lube....clean well and put her together
Old 09-25-2017, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by A.R. Shale Targa
D n J hyper pistons can be had with rings for under 300 bills got mine from R.A. but the WS6 store carries them or the equivalent LQ9 ones with the slightly thicker ring pack...not huge money really....run a fine ball hone through them cylinders with Dexron for lube....clean well and put her together
Would you recommend just using the same main/rod bearings?



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